Every winter my husband brings in a basketful of those
gnarly ugly looking Jerusalem artichokes. What to do with all of them? The
interesting thing is that the Jerusalem artichoke is neither from
Jerusalem nor related to the artichoke---which
most likely explains why food marketers changed its name to sunchoke in the
1960s after centuries of consumption in the United States. Despite its ugly
appearance it remains a delicious staple ingredient in the South’s best
restaurant kitchens.
The nutty and slightly sweet flavor makes it really
versatile and a great match for warm, seasonal comfort dishes. You can cut them
into chunks---leaving the skin intact---and toss them with garlic and olive oil
before roasting and they are delicious. The secret is to keep the seasoning
mild so that their delicate flavor comes through. This root vegetable can be
used like a water chestnut when sliced thin on a mandolin and served raw in
salads or as crudités.
Although technically in season in the South from early fall
through spring, this tuber reaches its peak flavor in the winter. Choose firm
sunchokes with no blemishes, sprouts, or soft spots, and store them on the
counter for a week, or in the refrigerator for up to three weeks. Give them a
much needed cleaning with a vegetable scrubber. Then use these recipes to
discover the beauty of this unassuming kitchen star.
They are easy to grow and when you dig them you rarely get
all the tubers so they come back the next year. They have a nice yellow daisy-like
flower in the early fall.
From “Garden and Gun” February/March 2015.
Make a Soup: I did this soup and it took less than 30
minutes and it was delicious. It is all you need for a first course for an
elegant dinner or it will be plenty filling for a lunch entrée.
Sauté 2 tsp. chopped garlic and 2 tsp. ground pepper in 2
Tbsp. olive oil for about 5 minutes. Add 2 cups peeled and chopped sunchokes,
two cups heavy cream, and 1 cup chicken broth, and reduce until smooth. Top
with 1 tsp. crème fraîche, season with salt and pepper, and garnish with
chervil, parsley, or your favorite herb.
Roast this Root:
Roughly chop 2 cups rainbow carrots (I used regular carrots)
and 2 cups sunchokes. Toss with 1 cup olive oil, 1 tsp. julienned fresh sage,
up to 1 tsp. cayenne pepper, 2 tsp. each finely chopped ginger and garlic, ½
cup soy sauce, and ½ cup sweet chili sauce. Spread the seasoned vegetables
evenly on sheet pan and bake at 375°F until caramelized, about 15 to 20
minutes.
Bake a Quiche: The perfect comfort food for a lazy Sunday
morning. You can use what you have in your fridge to swap out some of these
ingredients.
In a large bowl, mix 2 cups chopped sunchokes, ½ cup Swiss
cheese cubes, 1 tsp. minced garlic, 1 tsp. nutmeg, and 1 tsp. chopped fresh
thyme. Spread evenly over a store-bought pie shell. Whisk together
2 whole eggs, 1 cup cream, and salt and pepper to taste,
then pour into pie shell. Bake at 350°F for 15 to 20 minutes, or until firm.
In my latest issue of “Saveur” magazine, there was a
wonderful recipe for using sunchokes in pastry. I had never thought of this.
These pies or pastries were originally made for miners---they could hold the
pies’ thick edging with dirty hands and discard it after eating. You can eat
these with clean hands and not throw away anything. This is a great pick up
food.
Jerusalem Artichoke and Comté Pasties
Makes 6
12 oz. Jerusalem
artichokes, peeled, quartered lengthwise, and thinly sliced
12 oz. Comté cheese, thinly sliced (can be found at Whole
Foods)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Flour, for dusting
1 17-oz. box frozen puff pastry (2 sheets), thawed
1 egg, lightly beaten
Heat oven to 325°. Line the inside of a 9”x13” baking dish
with parchment paper. Arrange artichokes and cheese together in two layers in
dish, seasoning with salt and pepper between layers. Bake until artichokes are
tender when pierced with the tip of a paring knife, about 30 minutes. Let
filling cool.
Increase oven to 350°. On a lightly floured surface, roll
puff pastry sheets until ¼” thick. Using a 6” round cutter, cut out 6 circles,
reusing scraps as needed. Divide filling between centers of circles. Fold
circles in half, pinch edges to seal. Transfer pasties to a parchment
paper-lined baking sheet. Brush with egg; bake until golden and crisp, about 35
minutes.
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