On a trip to Italy 15 years ago, Nancy Silverton discovered
the Umbrian hilltop town of Panicale, on the outskirts of Perugla. The medieval
village was so charming she bought a house there. Nancy Silverton is a chef in
Los Angeles, and has three restaurants there, and doesn’t spend much time in
her home kitchen. But when she is in Panicale, she says, “I’m not just inspired
to cook; I’m inspired to cook simply.”
I really like the idea of cooking simply so the article in
the January 2015 issue of ‘Food and Wine’ intrigued me. What fun it would be to
return to Italy year after year and cook like the locals!! In Umbria the food
is simple and all the menus are the same. But according to Silverton, “Everyone
does not cook well.” Mostly women do the cooking in this place and are very
guarded as to who gets into their kitchen. Silverton was allowed to get into
the kitchen at Restaurant Mascolino, her favorite local restaurant in Umbria
and the three women who run the restaurant showed her some of their secrets.
She knew little Italian but she could figure out olio and rosmarino.
I tried some of the recipes given by Silverton and was so
pleased at how delicious everything tasted. Everything was simply prepared so
any one could do these.
These onions are flavorful and are baked until they fall
apart.
Taken from January 2015 ‘Food and Wine’ magazine.
Baked Onions with Fennel Bread Crumbs
Serves 4-6
3 medium onions, peeled and halved lengthwise, root ends
left intact
2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
Kosher salt
½ cup chicken stock
6 bay leaves, preferably fresh
1 tsp. fennel seeds
¼ cup panko
1 ½ tsp. minced sage
Preheat the oven to 425°. Brush the onion halved with olive
oil; season with salt and arrange cut side down in an ovenproof medium skillet.
Add the chicken stock and scatter the bay leaves around the onions. Cover
tightly with foil and bake for about 1 ½ hours; until the onions are very
tender.
Meanwhile, in a small skillet, toast the fennel seeds over
moderate heat until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a work surface and
let cool, then coarsely crush the seeds. Transfer to a small bowl, add the
panko, sage and the two tablespoons of olive oil and toss. Season with salt.
Carefully turn the onions cut side up in the skillet. Spoon
the fennel bread crumbs on top and bake for about 15 minutes longer, until the
crumbs are lightly browned and crisp. Discard the bay leaves and serve the
onions hot or warm.
In every little restaurant in Umbria, there are sautéed
greens on the menu. In this recipe the spinach is blanched and sautéed in a
garlic spiked oil. Yum!
Sautéed Spinach with Lemon-and-Garlic Olive Oil
Serves 4-6
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
10 garlic cloves, thickly sliced lengthwise
2 dried chiles de árbol, broken in half
Kosher salt
Thick strips of zest from 1 lemon
2 ½ lbs. spinach, cleaned, thick stems discarded
Freshly ground pepper
In a small saucepan, stir together the olive oil, garlic,
chiles and 1 teaspoon of salt. Stir in the lemon zest. Bring the oil to a
gentle simmer over low heat and cook until the garlic begins to brown slightly,
about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the oil infuse for 1 hour.
Discard the chiles and lemon zest and reserve the garlic.
Meanwhile, in a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the
spinach until bright green, 15 seconds. Using tongs transfer the spinach to a
bowl of ice water and let cool for 10 seconds. Drain the spinach in a colander,
pressing down to remove all the water. Pat dry with paper towels.
Heat a large skillet. Add the spinach and cook over
moderately high heat until beginning to sizzle. Add the garlic oil and toss
until the spinach is hot, about 2 minutes. Transfer the spinach and reserved
garlic to a colander set over a bowl to drain. Mound the spinach on a platter,
season with salt and pepper and serve.
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