Po 'Boys

Po ‘Boys have inspired a variety of stories as to their origin. In New Orleans, they first became well known during the street car drivers strike in the late 1920s, when Martin Brothers Restaurant (owned by retired drivers) began giving the hungry strikers sandwiches made of whatever could be easily put in a split loaf of French bread. Some were loaves filled with fried potatoes and beef gravy. There have been many restaurants since then, that have offered a variety of Po ‘Boys as their entire menu. The bakeries in the city make a French loaf that is wide at both ends, just for making Po ‘Boys.

The most popular Po ‘Boys are the roast beef (served dripping with “debris gravy”) and the oyster Po ‘Boy (filled with hot fried oysters), but there are also catfish, shrimp or soft-shell crab Po ‘Boys. Even at the local chains of little convenience stores call “Time Savers,” the clerks make fresh hot Po ‘Boys to order, just like at the New Orleans dime store lunch counters, cafes, and sandwich shops did during most of the 20^th Century.

Tradition has it also that during the 19^th century, oyster Po ‘Boys were known as the “Peacemakers,” since they were often brought home to angry wives as peace offerings by men who had stayed our too late at night in the saloons.

We have tasted many good Po ‘Boys in New Orleans but I thought it was time to do my own at home and see how mine rated. Oyster season is back and I picked up a pint yesterday at Tony’s seafood in Baton Rouge. This is the recipe I used and tonight is oyster Po ‘Boy night!

Oyster Po ‘Boy

Serves 2

16-20 fresh oysters

1 cup flour or corn flour

1 cup dry French bread crumbs

½ cup evaporated milk

2 eggs

¼ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. pepper

¼ tsp. cayenne

1 French bread loaf (16”-20”long)

Butter

Oil for frying

Mayonnaise or tartar sauce

Crisp shredded lettuce

Thin tomato slices

Dill pickle chips

Pat the oysters dry with a clean cloth and season them with the pepper and cayenne. Beat the eggs well and blend in the milk and salt. Gently roll each oyster in the flour and then dip it into the egg mixture. Roll it in the bread crumbs, coating it well, then shaking off the excess. Set the oysters on a plate, and when all are ready to cook, put the plate in the refrigerator to chill.

Preheat the oven to 350°. Slice the French bread in half and then horizontally. Pull out much of the bread with a slotted spoon, leaving 4 boat-shaped crusts. Butter the inside lightly and place them on a cookie sheet in the oven to lightly heat.

Heat the frying oil to 375° and put about 6 of the oysters at a time in the oil, turning them to cook evenly. When golden, remove them with a slotted spoon to paper to drain. Do not pierce with a fork.

Spread the four inside surfaces of the hot bread with mayonnaise or the Creole sauce (given below). Po ‘Boys are often ordered “dressed” which means with shredded lettuce, tomato slices and sometimes dill pickles, all arranged on the bottom layer. Then the hot oysters are laid in. Some cooks sprinkle the oysters with Tabasco before closing the sandwich. They are best enjoyed hot, as soon as they are assembled.

Creole Tartar Sauce

Makes 1 cup

1 cup mayonnaise

1 Tbsp. Creole mustard

¼ tsp. cayenne

1 tsp. salt

¼ cup very finely chopped green onion

¼ cup finely chopped parsley

¼ cup finely chopped pickles

Blend the ingredients together evenly and spread on the Po ‘Boy loaves with the fried oysters. The sauce goes well with boiled crabs, shrimp or crawfish---all types of fried seafood.

This Po ‘Boy sandwich was delicious. My husband said it was one of the best he had had, but a bit messy! Not such a big price to pay for good food.

Devon Again

We just returned from our 8^th Devon Conference; this time in Anderson SC. It was on the family farm of a doctor who had gotten into grass-fed beef and Devon cattle because of health issues.

 One grass farmer writing in ‘The Stockman Grass Farmer’ noted their journey with their customers in the grass-fed beef business.  They noted that “in about 2001 studies came out about the health benefits of grass-finished beef including containing more omega-3 fatty acids and more conjugated linoleic acid, a type of fat found to reduce heart disease and cancer risks.” They further noted how consumers’ concerns change over time. “The biggest concerns used to be that it was organic, free of antibiotics and hormones. Now the main concern that gets expressed to us is livestock handling, and how the animals are killed.” Stressless slaughter is important in getting the best beef, not just for feeling good.

At the recent conference we had Susan Duckett of Clemson University give her results in testing grass vs grain finished beef. She noted tenderness to be the same with comparable animals using the Warner Brazler shear force as a measure of tenderness. In conducting taste testing, she notes that Americans have been raised on grain finished beef and find the grass-finished beef to taste of more beef flavor or an off flavor. South Americans (where she also works) say the opposite. She also did some comparisons of forage that the steers were finished on, finding that finishing on alfalfa was a preferred forage. Beef may be like wine; terroir and what is growing there is important.

Dr. Duckett also noted that antioxidents were 280% higher in the grass-fed; beta carotene, Vitamin A, was 54% higher; B vitamins, riboflavin, 104% higher, thiamin, 194% higher. The cancer fighting compound, CLA, conjugated linoleic acid, was 49% less in grain-fed and the precursor, TVA, was 11 fold reduced in grain-fed. There is a 2.7 fold increase in Omega-3 and the ratio of Omega-3/Omega-6 is 1.6 in grass vs 5.4 in grain. The Lyon Heart Study showed a 76% decrease in mortality over two years with a ratio of <4:1.

She had a table showing the ratios of Omega-6:Omega-3 in various foods. Wild caught salmon was the best, followed by greens, farmed salmon, grass-fed lamb, grass-fed beef.  But even grain-fed beef out performed chicken and pork but the chicken and pork in the study was not pastured but factory farmed and fed a lot of grain.

Why Devon? Everyone knows Angus. Their breeders have done a good job of ‘branding.’ Red Devon USA is out not only to save a heritage breed that we have come close to losing in America, but to convince you that this is the breed for ‘gourmet beef on grass.’

Devon is one of the oldest cattle breeds in existence. Records of the Red Devon cattle in the county of Devon, England date as early as 23 B.C. Devons made their way to America with the Pilgrims in 1623. Their hardy foraging ability, their rich milk providing for the sustenance of both calf and family, and their docility and strength adapting them for use as oxen made the breed quite useful and it remained so until after WWII and the grain-finishing feedlot. Today interest in a healthy beef product, producers are looking for the right animals to use in grass-finishing. It is their carcass value, fertility, maternal ability, longevity, genetic purity, disposition, hide value, and adaptability that is attracting the grass farmer.  As the consumer you want a good eating experience. A recent study by Dr. Robert Harrell, a Dothan cardiologist with the help of his son, Alex, a New Orleans chef, was conducted in the Florida panhandle. They compared 4 breeds that had been grass finished together. The South Poll scored highest with 537, but the Devon was a close second with 535; Wagyu/Angus scored 503 and Black Angus 438. One British writer noted recently, “Red Ruby Devon beef is recognized in the UK as being amongst the finest beef that you can buy. The brand is recognized by consumers and many of our country’s leading Michelin chefs in some of the very best London restaurants.” And the British know their beef!

Even the fast food chains are getting in the business. Hardee’s and Carl’s Jr. are offering a grass-fed burger. Those who have tasted the burger do not think it tastes any better than the other. But with it you get a choice. I am going to give it a try.

This recipe made with grass-fed beef is tasty and worth doing. It is from the October issue of ‘Southern Living’ and it makes use of the slow cooker (which I like in cooler weather) and this is a wonderful Bolognese, which is easy.

 Slow-Cooker Bolognese Sauce over Pasta

Makes 6-8 servings

1 medium-size yellow onion, finely chopped

2 celery ribs, finely chopped

1 medium carrot, finely chopped

1 Tbsp. olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 Tbsp. tomato paste

2 lb. grass-fed beef

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

2 tsp. sugar

2 tsp. dried Italian seasoning

½ tsp. ground black pepper

¼ tsp. ground nutmeg

1 bay leaf

½ cup red wine

2 (28-oz.) cans whole peeled tomatoes

2/3 cups heavy cream

1 lb. pappardelle pasta or wide fettuccine

Freshly shaved or grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Sauté first 3 ingredients in hot oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat 8 minutes or until tender. Add garlic and tomato paste; stirring constantly, 30 seconds. Transfer to a 6-qt. slow cooker.

Add beef to skillet, and cook, stirring often, 7 minutes or until crumbled and no longer pink; drain. Stir in kosher salt and next 5 ingredients. Stir in wine, and cook, stirring occasionally, 7 minutes or until almost all liquid evaporates. Add to slow cooker, and stir to combine.

Drain tomatoes, reserving liquid. Using your hands, crush tomatoes, and break them apart. Add to slow cooker; stir to combine.

Cover and cook on LOW 6 hours. Stir in cream. Check sauce; it should be thick and creamy. (If soupy, uncover and cook 30 more minutes. If dry, stir in reserved canned tomato liquid, 1 Tbsp. at a time, to thin sauce.) Discard bay leaf.

Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain well. Toss together pasta and 4 cups sauce. (Reserve remaining sauce for another use.) Spoon into serving dishes, and sprinkle with desired amount of cheese. Serve immediately.

Fried Rice

Who doesn’t like fried rice? I love it even when it is not so great from the take-out Chinese restaurants. I cooked fried rice a lot when my children were young. It was a great way to use leftover rice and other ingredients in the refrigerator.

 Basically the definition of fried rice is a dish of steamed rice stir-fried in a wok, often mixed with other ingredients such as eggs, vegetables, and meat. It is often served as the penultimate dish in Chinese banquets, just before dessert. It is said to have existed since 4000 BC and always an element of traditional Chinese cuisine; it was spread to Southeast Asia by nomads.

Every country seems to have its own version of fried rice. Even in China fried rice varies from region to region. In the Fujian region of China, the sauce for fried rice is thick, including mushrooms, meats, and vegetables. In the Khmer region the rice includes fried sausages, garlic, soy sauce, and herbs and eaten with pork. The Yangzhou fried rice is the most popular fried rice in China and is served with shrimp, scrambled eggs, along with barbecued pork. It is called “special fried rice” or “house fried rice”.

American fried rice is actually a Thai invention using hot dogs, fried chicken and eggs used as side dishes or mixed into the rice with ketchup. Apparently, this was served to GI’s during the Vietnam War, and now has become popular and commonplace throughout Thailand.

I got interested in the fried rice history when I read an article in the September “Bon Appetit” magazine. The editor-in-chief of the magazine, Adam Rapoport, lives in New York and orders a lot of Chinese delivery and fried rice is always in the mix. He tried to duplicate it at home but always found he used too much soy sauce or not enough, and it was usually more clumpy than crispy. So he called his friend, Danny Bowien, who has soared to success with his classics at his Mission Chinese Food restaurant in San Francisco and New York and asked him how to make really good fried rice.

I decided to try this fried rice even though it was made with some kettle-cooked potato chips and some beef jerky, but I found it was delicious. You can use any type of beef jerky, or use leftover short ribs or spareribs or leave out the meat.

Here are some things you should know before trying the recipe:

You do not need soy sauce. Season your rice with salt and a dash of sugar. (Fried rice is slightly sweet; you’ve just never noticed).

Warm, freshly made jasmine rice is your best bet. It is better than the leftover take-out stuff.

Don’t skimp on the oil.

Finish with chicken broth to deglaze the pan.

From September 2015 issue of “Bon Appetit” Magazine.

Beef Jerky Fried Rice

Serves 4

3 Tbsp. grapeseed oil (can be found at Walmart)

1 cup sliced mushrooms

2 beaten large eggs

3 cups cooked jasmine rice

1 tsp. raw sugar

½ cup chopped white onion

½ cup crushed kettle-cooked potato chips

½ cup sliced beef jerky (I used Applewood smoked and it was great)

½ cup sliced scallions

Salt to taste

2 Tbsp. low-sodium chicken broth

Toppings: sliced red onions, torn cilantro and more potato chips

Heat the grapeseed oil in a large nonstick or cast-iron skillet over high heat. Cook the mushrooms, cooking until just brown, about 1 minute. Pour in two beaten eggs and stir vigorously for 10 seconds; add the cooked jasmine rice. Pat down the rice and spread it out in an even layer, breaking up clumps, then vigorously toss everything together. Continue the process until grains dry out and separate, about 3 minutes.

Add the sugar, and then the onion, potato chips, and beef jerky. Then add the sliced scallions and add salt to taste. Cook, tossing, until onion is slightly softened, about 2 minutes. Pour the chicken broth around the edges of the skillet; cook, tossing rice, until broth evaporates. Served topped with the onions, cilantro, and potato chips.

Try this! It was delicious.

Moussaka

At the farmer’s market this past weekend I saw a lot of eggplant. Yes, the small baby eggplants are in. So in thinking about what to do with them I remembered an article I had read in my latest issue of ‘Fine Cooking Magazine’ about moussaka. Of course moussaka uses eggplant but this recipe used potatoes also. The writer who is Greek, said that her aunt taught her how to make this moussaka and it was the best she had ever eaten. So I decided I would give it a try.

The moussaka I will admit, was time consuming. Each layer had to be done separately and you had another layer to prepare---the potatoes. But it makes a lot and can feed a large group. You can freeze it for 3 months and then bake so I figured it was several meals, so worth the time. Some things I learned from the article: the meat sauce is made with beef not lamb so the flavor doesn’t overwhelm the ingredients; sometimes the eggplant is fried and sometimes it is roasted (I roasted them); always fry the potatoes to get a perfectly silken tender-creamy texture.

The moussaka was worth the effort. Delicious and warming. Give this a try!

From the October/November 2015 ‘Fine Cooking Magazine’

Moussaka

Serves 8-12

For the Meat Sauce:

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped (about 2 ½ cups)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 lb. 80% lean ground beef (I used grass-fed)

½ cup dry red wine

½ cup canned crushed tomatoes

¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 Tbs. tomato paste

¼ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

For the Eggplant:

3 lb. eggplant (about 2 medium or 5-6 baby eggplant), trimmed and sliced crosswise about ¼-inch thick

Kosher salt

3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed

Freshly ground black pepper

For the Potatoes:

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 medium russet potatoes (about 2 ½ lb.), rinsed and dried

Kosher salt

For the Béchamel

3 cups whole milk

4 oz. (1/2 cup unsalted butter)

2 ¼ oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 large eggs, beaten

½ oz. finely grated Pamigiano-Reggiano or pecorino romano (1/2 cup)

¼ tsp. freshly ground nutmeg; more to taste

Kosher salt

Make the meat sauce:

Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the onions, a generous pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Cook stirring occasionally, until translucent, 5-8 minutes.

Turn the heat up to medium high. Add the beef, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally and breaking up the meat, until browned, 7-10 minutes. Add the wine, turn the heat down to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until absorbed, about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, parsley, tomato paste, and nutmeg, and stir to combine. Turn the heat down to low and gently simmer to meld the flavors, stirring once or twice, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside. (The meat sauce can be refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen up to 3 months).

Salt the Eggplant:

Cover the bottom and sides of a large colander with a single layer of the eggplant slices and sprinkle generously with salt. Top with more of layers of eggplant, salting each layer until you run out of slices. Let sit in the sink or over a large bowl for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.

Pan-Fry the Potatoes:

Heat the oil in a heavy duty 12-inch skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium heat until shimmering hot (about 375°F).

Meanwhile, slice the potatoes crosswise into ¼-inch rounds. Discarding the end slices.

Working in batches, slide 10-15 potato slices into the hot oil in a single layer. Fry, flipping once, until the potatoes are tender, about 4 minutes.

Roast the Eggplant:

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Rinse the eggplant in cold water to remove excess salt. Press the slices between paper towels or clean kitchen towels to dry, then arrange them in a single layer on 2 large rimmed baking sheets. Lightly brush both sides of each slice with the olive oil and lightly season both sides with salt and pepper, Roast, flipping once, until tender and lightly browned, 30-35 minutes total.

Make the Béchamel:

Heat the milk in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat until steaming; set aside.

Melt the butter in a 4-quart saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the flour and cook, whisking constantly, until golden, about 5 minutes. Slowly whisk in the hot milk and then simmer gently, whisking, until the raw taste is gone and the sauce thickens, about 5 minutes. Turn the heat down to low and gradually whisk in the eggs; whisk vigorously to combine. Remove from the heat. Set aside 1Tbs. of the cheese for assembly, and add the remaining cheese to the sauce, along with the nutmeg and 1 tsp. salt; whisk until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Assemble and Bake:

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil a 9x13-inch baking dish.

Arrange the potatoes in an even layer on the bottom of the dish, overlapping the slices like shingles. Sprinkle evenly with 1 tsp. of the reserved cheese.

Arrange the eggplant slices as you did the potatoes, and evenly sprinkle with 1tsp. of the remaining cheese. Spread the meat sauce in an even layer on top of the eggplant. Pour the béchamel over the meat sauce and spread in an even layer. Evenly sprinkle with the remaining 1 tsp. cheese. Bake until the top is golden brown, 50-60 minutes. Let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before serving.

New Orleans Weekend and Shaya

A trip to New Orleans is always fun. Recently we decided to spend 4 days there and did some things tourist do and tried some new restaurants. We did spend two days at the New Orleans Antiques Forum which we find really interesting and informative. The first day was spent looking at houses in other areas of Louisiana and this year we went to Franklin, St. Mary Parish, Louisiana and saw two very different houses: a Creole cottage on the bayou and a grand raised town house; and on to Jenerette, Louisiana to see a sensational plantation house and the collection of artist Hunt Slonum. My husband thought the view of the bayou from the second story rear gallery worth the price of admission.

We spent the third day at the World War II Museum and if you have not been, it is worth a visit. It is the top attraction in New Orleans and voted the 5^th best museum in the country and 11^th in the world. It does take a day to get to all the exhibits. I had gone several years ago but my husband had never been. It has grown a lot since I last visited.

Sunday was church at Trinity Episcopal Church and lunch at Commander’s Palace. This has always been my favorite way to spend Sunday in New Orleans. A lunch at Commander’s is always a treat and it remains high on my list, still, for a great Sunday brunch of good food and some jazz---‘Do You Know What It Means To Miss New Orleans?’

We found a fantastic new restaurant in New Orleans called Shaya. I had been reading about this new chef by the name of Alon Shaya, who worked with John Besh at the Dominica restaurant. Shaya is an Israeli restaurant, but uses some of the vibrant cuisine from Turkey to Morocco, Bulgaria to Greece, and Yemen to Russia. Everything we had there was fresh and they use produce from the local farmers in Louisiana and Mississippi. All the food is shared by the table which I am seeing more and more in restaurants. We chose three items for the table (3 for $15.00) which included wood-fired okra, red onions, and tahini; tzatziki with field peas and sea beans; lutenitsa, a Bulgarian puree of roasted peppers, eggplant, garlic and tomato. For our main courses we ordered avocado toast with smoked whitefish and pink peppercorns on rye bread and curried fried cauliflower with caramelized onions and mint. The cauliflower was served atop a plate of hummus and there were four other offerings on the menu for toppings for the hummus. The place is marvelous and I cannot wait to go back. I met the chef and he was so proud of his restaurant. It is located at 4213 Magazine Street in New Orleans and he has a website at shayarestaurant.com.

I came home and did the avocado toast which is easy. Just get some good Jewish rye bread and toast it, add some prepared guacamole, top with smoked whitefish (I bought some at Whole Foods) and top with pink peppercorns (which I also found at Whole Foods). The pink peppercorns are quite expensive but the taste is spicy and sweet. Now I use them for everything.

I also did the grilled okra and just made a Greek sauce of yogurt, garlic, and some red onions. You could add any other spice that you like to the sauce. I threw in some pink peppercorns!

The August’ Food and Wine’ magazine did an article on Alon Shaya and gave the recipe for the hummus with curried cauliflower and onion. I did not have to dream up a recipe, but got to follow the chef’s recipe. It was delicious. I made hummus from dried chick peas and let me tell you, the hummus was fantastic and made a huge amount. Enough to last for many meals. It is said that Mr. Shaya made three gallons of the hummus almost every day for two months to land the amazing recipe used at the New Orleans restaurant. (It was worth the effort).

So when you are in New Orleans next time go to this restaurant. It has been opened for 6 months but it is busy so book ahead. You will not be disappointed.

From August 2015 ‘Food and Wine’ magazine.

Curried Onion and Cauliflower Hummus

Makes 5 cups

1 lb. dried chickpeas (2 ½ cups), soaked overnight and drained

8 garlic cloves, peeled

1 tsp. baking soda

½ cup tahini (can buy at Whole Foods)

½ cup fresh lemon juice

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

½ tsp. ground cumin

Salt

Canola oil, for frying

½ lb. cauliflower, cut into ½-inch florets

2 tsp. curry powder

1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced

1 ½ tsp. finely crushed pink peppercorns

Chopped parsley, for garnish (or mint as at the restaurant)

In a saucepan, cover the chickpeas, garlic, and baking soda with 2 inches of water and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer over moderately low heat, stirring every 15 minutes, until the chickpeas are tender, 50 minutes; if necessary, add water to keep them covered.

Drain the chickpeas and garlic and transfer to a food processor; puree until very smooth. With the machine on, gradually add the tahini, lemon juice, 1/3 cup olive oil and the cumin; season the hummus with salt.

In a skillet, heat ¼ inch of canola oil. Add the cauliflower and fry over moderately high heat, stirring, until tender and deeply browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined bowl to drain. Add one teaspoon of the curry powder and toss well. Season with salt and toss again.

Pour off all but ¼ cup of the oil from the skillet. Add the onion and a big pinch of salt and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until just starting to soften and brown in spots, about 5 minutes. Add the pink peppercorns and the remaining 1 teaspoon of curry powder and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Season with salt.

Spoon the hummus into a bowl and top with the onion and cauliflower. Drizzle with olive oil, garnish with parsley and serve.

Bantry House, Ireland Part II

Before leaving Cork we paid a visit to County Waterford and Lismore Castle, still the Irish home of the Cavendish family. The Duke and Duchess of Devonshire’s main residence is Chatsworth in England but they have owned Lismore for generations. But perhaps a more famous resident was Adele, sister of Fred Astaire. She was married to Charles Cavendish and lived there from 1932-1944. The castle was begun in 1185 by Prince John, later King John of England of Magna Carta fame. In the 16^th century it was home to Sir Walter Raleigh. And Edmund Spencer is said to have written part of the Faerie Queen Faerie  in the yew avenue in the garden.

After our visit to the foodie destination of Ireland (Ballymaloe) we headed west in County Cork to drive the Ring of Kerry, said to be one of the great scenic drives in Ireland---“if the weather is good.” We spent the night at Bantry House overlooking Bantry Bay. We were greeted by the owner and made welcome in their beautifully furnished rooms in the East Wing with our view over the formal garden. The very pregnant Mrs. Sophie Shelswell-White who greeted us is the great, great-granddaughter of the 3^rd Earl of Bantry. The 18^th century house was enlarged and embellished in the 19^th century but has suffered much over the years. The earldom was lost when there were no longer any male heirs. But the house remains with much to admire in the care of the 10^th generation of the family. Like many owners of stately homes, the family has opened the house to visitors to tour as well as to stay in their bed & breakfast. We decided to have lunch in the tea room on arrival and enjoyed a hearty spiced carrot soup. We found these hot vegetable soups to be on all the lunch menus and much to be enjoyed in the cool Irish summer.

We got up the next morning to the most beautiful Irish breakfast in the dining room. The scramble eggs were presented in a timbale. And, of course, wonderful scones. But our drive around the ring of Kerry was not to be. It was raining and we could hardly see across the lawn to the Bay. We elected instead to head toward Shannon where we had to catch our plane the next morning. We did stop at Muckross House which had been home to Jane Herbert, wife of the 3^rd Earl of Bantry. Here I found a great shop for Irish woolen items. We also had soup in the café for lunch.

All of our meals as mentioned started with a soup. We usually had a choice of a carrot soup or a green soup. I especially liked a carrot and lentil soup and came home and recreated it. I found a recipe for a greens soup in Cooking from the Garden by Rosalind Creasy. Try these and you will find them tasty and healthy and perhaps give you a hint of fall.

Spiced Carrot and Lentil Soup

2 tsp. cumin seeds

Pinch chili flakes

2 tbsp. olive oil

2 cups washed and coarsely chopped carrots (organic would be best)

¾ cup spit red lentils (I used green since I did not have the red)

3 cups hot vegetable stock (I used chicken broth)

½ cup milk

Plain yogurt and naan bread to serve

Heat a large saucepan and dry-fry the cumin seeds and chili flakes for 1 minute, or until they start to jump around in the pan and release their aromas. Scoop out about half of the seeds with a spoon and set aside. Add the oil, carrot, lentils, stock and milk to the pan and bring to the boil. Simmer for 15 minutes until the lentils have swollen and softened.

Whizz the soup with a stick blender or in a food processor until smooth (or leave it chunky if you prefer). Season to taste and finish with a dollop of yogurt (and a little cilantro or parsley) and a sprinkling of the reserved toasted spices. Serve with warmed naan bread. Or perhaps that Irish bread you made last week?

One of the soups seeming always to be on the lunch menu was a green soup.

Greens Soup

½ cup chopped onion

1 clove garlic

1 tablespoon each of butter and olive oil

Freshly ground fresh pepper to taste

1 diced potato

1 ½ cup chicken broth

1 quart chopped greens (such as spinach, sorrel, lettuce, and chard)

½ to 1 cup milk

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large pan sauté onion and garlic in the butter and olive oil. Stir in fresh pepper. Add the diced potato and chicken broth and simmer until the potato is tender. Stir in the chopped greens and cook until wilted. Puree or blend adding ½ to 1 cup milk. Season with salt, pepper, or nutmeg.

Ballymaloe

We took a trip recently with the destination being about food. Ballymaloe House in County Cork, Ireland, has quite a reputation. Ivan and Myrtle Allen lived and farmed Ballymaloe near the sea in County Cork, Ireland, buying the property in 1948. In 1964 Myrtle began cooking for guests----advertising “Dine in a Historic Country House.” Her cooking was from the farm and the local fish boats at Ballycotton, and her reputation spread. In 1966 she began taking in guests in order to get a liquor license. One of her early helpers was Darina O’Connell who later married her son. It was Darina who opened a cooking school nearby at their farm and named the school Ballymaloe Cooking School. That was in 1984, over 30 years ago. The ensemble is quite a family enterprise now and we went to check it out.

We landed in Shannon and using Siri we found the farmstead in about 2 hours (drive on the left, shift with the left hand and beware the nonexistent verges and my husband loves the signs: oncoming traffic in the middle of the road!). Before we even checked in at this wonderful old (17^th c.) country house we went to the nearby shop and there was a café and we decided to have lunch. It was a fantastic salad with free range chicken, their bread and butter from the farm and a glass of wine from Portugal. One of the grandson’s has a wine import business bringing in wines from Spain and Portugal. (There are quite a number of family members with various associated endeavors.) Time for a nap to help with the jet lag.

Dinner is a five course affair. Maybe start with a drink (Irish whiskey?) in the parlor and check out the evening’s menu. The sommelier is there to help with wine selections---but we liked the Portuguese Beyra that we had had for lunch. Most meals begin with a hot soup and they were usually a green soup or a carrot spiced soup and they were very good. The second course is usually a fish (local mackerel or hake) served in a lemon butter sauce. The main course is a choice of beef, pork, lamb or fish served with the locally grown vegetables. A cheese course (Irish cheeses), then dessert on a trolley with way too many choices and coffee and petit fours. After two nights of this I had to call it quits. Way too much food even for me! The third night we just had wine and cheese in the room with a little Indian dish from the garden festival that day. We not only enjoyed the annual garden festival that weekend but spent two days touring the gardens and farms that make up the Ballymaloe House and the cooking school. The fourth night we returned to the dining room for a Sunday night buffet with everything you could dream of, seafood and salad wise, plus all sorts of meat. At this point we had learned to select carefully and not get a second plate.

I will have to say the breakfast is the best at Ballymaloe. The eggs are all free range and so creamy and a beautiful yellow color. We had rashers (bacon), sausage, tomatoes, and mushrooms. And the breads!! The scones were the best I have ever had, plus all sorts of brown breads. Even without the cooked breakfast you had all sorts of fruits, granola, hot cereals, and juices. Yes, I was in heaven.

These recipes were given to me by the wonderful waitress at Ballymaloe for scones and soda bread. These are taken from the cookbook, 30 Years at Ballymaloe, by Darina Allen.

White Scones

Makes 15 (3 inch scones)

8 cups plain white flour

1 ½ sticks butter

3 free-range eggs

Pinch of salt

¼ cup castor sugar

3 heaped teaspoons baking powder

2 cups approx. milk to mix

Egg wash (see below)

Sieve the dry ingredients into a large wide bowl. Cut in butter and rub in until like crumbs. Whisk the eggs with the milk, add to the dry ingredients and mix to a soft dough. Turn out onto a floured board. Don’t knead but shape just enough to make a round. Roll out to (1 inch) thick and cut into round “cakes” (1inch x2inch) and put onto a baking sheet. Brush the tops with egg wash. Bake in a hot oven, 475°F., for 10-12 minutes until risen and nicely browned.

Egg wash: Whisk 1 egg with a pinch of salt.

Irish Brown Soda Bread

8 oz. whole meal flour (wholewheat)

8 oz. plain flour

1 level teaspoon salt

1 level teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

14-16 fl. oz. buttermilk

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Sieve the dry ingredients into a large wide bowl. Make a well in the center and add most of the buttermilk. Hold your hand in an open claw shape and mix dry ingredients into the buttermilk. Add remaining buttermilk if necessary until the mixture forms a ball. Do not knead! Cleans your hands.

Turn the dough onto a floured worktop, form into a round, transfer to a baking tray, mark with a cross and bake in a fairly hot oven, 400 degrees. After 15 minutes reduce to 375 degrees, bake for 30 minutes more or until the loaf has a nice brown crust and sounds hollow when tapped.

We were especially happy with the ingredients that are used at Ballymaloe: grassfed local beef and lamb and pastured pork; free range chicken and eggs; grassfed milk and butter; organic fruits and vegetables from the farm or foraged; wild caught seafood and fish. Food can’t get healthier than that, and done well, it was delicious.