Devon Again

We just returned from our 8^th Devon Conference; this time in Anderson SC. It was on the family farm of a doctor who had gotten into grass-fed beef and Devon cattle because of health issues.

 One grass farmer writing in ‘The Stockman Grass Farmer’ noted their journey with their customers in the grass-fed beef business.  They noted that “in about 2001 studies came out about the health benefits of grass-finished beef including containing more omega-3 fatty acids and more conjugated linoleic acid, a type of fat found to reduce heart disease and cancer risks.” They further noted how consumers’ concerns change over time. “The biggest concerns used to be that it was organic, free of antibiotics and hormones. Now the main concern that gets expressed to us is livestock handling, and how the animals are killed.” Stressless slaughter is important in getting the best beef, not just for feeling good.

At the recent conference we had Susan Duckett of Clemson University give her results in testing grass vs grain finished beef. She noted tenderness to be the same with comparable animals using the Warner Brazler shear force as a measure of tenderness. In conducting taste testing, she notes that Americans have been raised on grain finished beef and find the grass-finished beef to taste of more beef flavor or an off flavor. South Americans (where she also works) say the opposite. She also did some comparisons of forage that the steers were finished on, finding that finishing on alfalfa was a preferred forage. Beef may be like wine; terroir and what is growing there is important.

Dr. Duckett also noted that antioxidents were 280% higher in the grass-fed; beta carotene, Vitamin A, was 54% higher; B vitamins, riboflavin, 104% higher, thiamin, 194% higher. The cancer fighting compound, CLA, conjugated linoleic acid, was 49% less in grain-fed and the precursor, TVA, was 11 fold reduced in grain-fed. There is a 2.7 fold increase in Omega-3 and the ratio of Omega-3/Omega-6 is 1.6 in grass vs 5.4 in grain. The Lyon Heart Study showed a 76% decrease in mortality over two years with a ratio of <4:1.

She had a table showing the ratios of Omega-6:Omega-3 in various foods. Wild caught salmon was the best, followed by greens, farmed salmon, grass-fed lamb, grass-fed beef.  But even grain-fed beef out performed chicken and pork but the chicken and pork in the study was not pastured but factory farmed and fed a lot of grain.

Why Devon? Everyone knows Angus. Their breeders have done a good job of ‘branding.’ Red Devon USA is out not only to save a heritage breed that we have come close to losing in America, but to convince you that this is the breed for ‘gourmet beef on grass.’

Devon is one of the oldest cattle breeds in existence. Records of the Red Devon cattle in the county of Devon, England date as early as 23 B.C. Devons made their way to America with the Pilgrims in 1623. Their hardy foraging ability, their rich milk providing for the sustenance of both calf and family, and their docility and strength adapting them for use as oxen made the breed quite useful and it remained so until after WWII and the grain-finishing feedlot. Today interest in a healthy beef product, producers are looking for the right animals to use in grass-finishing. It is their carcass value, fertility, maternal ability, longevity, genetic purity, disposition, hide value, and adaptability that is attracting the grass farmer.  As the consumer you want a good eating experience. A recent study by Dr. Robert Harrell, a Dothan cardiologist with the help of his son, Alex, a New Orleans chef, was conducted in the Florida panhandle. They compared 4 breeds that had been grass finished together. The South Poll scored highest with 537, but the Devon was a close second with 535; Wagyu/Angus scored 503 and Black Angus 438. One British writer noted recently, “Red Ruby Devon beef is recognized in the UK as being amongst the finest beef that you can buy. The brand is recognized by consumers and many of our country’s leading Michelin chefs in some of the very best London restaurants.” And the British know their beef!

Even the fast food chains are getting in the business. Hardee’s and Carl’s Jr. are offering a grass-fed burger. Those who have tasted the burger do not think it tastes any better than the other. But with it you get a choice. I am going to give it a try.

This recipe made with grass-fed beef is tasty and worth doing. It is from the October issue of ‘Southern Living’ and it makes use of the slow cooker (which I like in cooler weather) and this is a wonderful Bolognese, which is easy.

 Slow-Cooker Bolognese Sauce over Pasta

Makes 6-8 servings

1 medium-size yellow onion, finely chopped

2 celery ribs, finely chopped

1 medium carrot, finely chopped

1 Tbsp. olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 Tbsp. tomato paste

2 lb. grass-fed beef

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

2 tsp. sugar

2 tsp. dried Italian seasoning

½ tsp. ground black pepper

¼ tsp. ground nutmeg

1 bay leaf

½ cup red wine

2 (28-oz.) cans whole peeled tomatoes

2/3 cups heavy cream

1 lb. pappardelle pasta or wide fettuccine

Freshly shaved or grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Sauté first 3 ingredients in hot oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat 8 minutes or until tender. Add garlic and tomato paste; stirring constantly, 30 seconds. Transfer to a 6-qt. slow cooker.

Add beef to skillet, and cook, stirring often, 7 minutes or until crumbled and no longer pink; drain. Stir in kosher salt and next 5 ingredients. Stir in wine, and cook, stirring occasionally, 7 minutes or until almost all liquid evaporates. Add to slow cooker, and stir to combine.

Drain tomatoes, reserving liquid. Using your hands, crush tomatoes, and break them apart. Add to slow cooker; stir to combine.

Cover and cook on LOW 6 hours. Stir in cream. Check sauce; it should be thick and creamy. (If soupy, uncover and cook 30 more minutes. If dry, stir in reserved canned tomato liquid, 1 Tbsp. at a time, to thin sauce.) Discard bay leaf.

Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain well. Toss together pasta and 4 cups sauce. (Reserve remaining sauce for another use.) Spoon into serving dishes, and sprinkle with desired amount of cheese. Serve immediately.