Perhaps we do not know the name of John Hall as well as some
other chefs, but he is from Birmingham and opened his Birmingham pizzeria
called Post Office Pies a few years ago. Post Office Pies was named because he
renovated an old post office in his Avondale neighbor in Birmingham.
The May issue of ‘Southern Living’ feathers this man because
it was his grandmother who inspired his love of cooking. As a kid, he was
enthralled with the vegetables and herbs his grandmother Louellen Wilkins,
tended in her small garden and how they manifested on the family’s able. This
was before all the farm to table hoopla. She cooked with the seasons, and she
pickled and canned everything.
John Hall’s mother Marion, was a single mom, but there was
always a home cooked weeknight meal on the table. His family meals were geared
around comfort in good times and bad. Food brings people together and makes
them happy.
Hall decided to be chef, not a cook, and went on to do
culinary training in Charleston and Rhode Island. He built up his resume in
Birmingham with Chef Frank Stitt, then moved on to New York. Between working
rigorous shifts, he ran a side business called Insomnia Pizza out of his tiny
Brooklyn apartment, making and delivering late-night pies on his bike.
In 2013, he got the opportunity to start a restaurant in his
old neighborhood in Birmingham. As soon as it opened the lines were spilling
out the front door. His grandmother passed away one month before the restaurant
opened.
Hall still prepares everything his mother and grandmother
taught him. He makes tomato sauce from scratch and uses locally grown greens
for his salads. My goal is to get to his restaurant when I am in Birmingham
again. Frank Stitt, I’ll get back to you later.
So in honor of Mother’s Day, we praise all mothers who work
hard in preparing good food for their families. It is hard out there to find
the best produce and be able to afford it. Children do remember what their
childhood was like (good or bad) and a lot of it has to do what happened at the
dinner table.
So Happy Mother’s Day!
John Hall’s Mom made shrimp and grits before it became a
dish on most southern restaurant menus. He added a bright Salsa Verde which he
learned from his time at Gramercy Tavern.
Taken from ‘Southern Living’ May 2016.
Pan-Seared Shrimp with Chive Grits and Salsa Verde
3 cups water
1 cup whole milk
3 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 cup yellow stone-ground grits
6 Tbsp. salted butter, divided
2 lb. raw jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined, divided
½ tsp. black pepper, divided
1 Tbsp. lemon juice, divided
2 Tbsp. chopped chives
1 pt. cherry tomatoes, halved
Salsa Verde (recipe follows)
Bring 3 cups water, milk, and 2 teaspoons salt to a boil in
a large heavy saucepan over high heat. Whisk in grits, and cook, whisking
constantly, 45 seconds, scraping bottom and sides as needed. Return to a boil;
cover and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook grits until tender, 20-25 minutes.
(For a looser texture, whisk in 2-4 tablespoons water halfway through cooking.)
Meanwhile, melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over
medium-heat. Add half of the shrimp, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper.
Sauté until shrimp are almost pink, 5-6 minutes. Toss with ½ tablespoon lemon
juice, and transfer to a plate. Repeat with 2 tablespoons butter and remaining
shrimp, salt, pepper, and lemon juice.
Add chives and remaining 2 tablespoons butter to grits. Top
with shrimp, tomatoes, and Salsa Verde.
Salsa Verde
1 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves and
small stems
1 cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro leaves and small stems
1 cup roughly chopped fresh basil leaves
¾ tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. red chili flakes
2 garlic cloves
1 Tbsp. lemon zest plus 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided
½ cup olive oil
Pulse firsts 6 ingredients plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice
zest in a food processor until roughly chopped. With processor running, pour
olive oil through food chute, until smooth. Transfer to a bowl; let stand 20
minutes. Before serving stir in lemon juice.
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