Trends 2015

I am always interested in what the food magazines have to say about the coming trends in food for the year. Sometimes they get it right and sometimes not. Most seem to repeat a lot of the same things such as eat more veggies, grains and fruit. We all know to do that, but sometimes fall short. I rather liked what AARP had to say about our next SUPERFOODS!

Move over quinoa—farro is going to be huge. This is a nutty, nutritious, ancient grain related to wheat. It will be showing up more on restaurant menus. I see a lot of recipes for it already in the new magazines.

Instead of goji berries from Asia, dried cherries from the U.S. will be the homegrown super fruit. Dried cherries have been overlooked. But they are delicious and nutritious. Dried cranberries are in the same camp. I never even got to the goji berries, but I do eat dried cherries and cranberries.

Kale is going to be less hip and Brussels sprouts will be on your table. Chefs are even roasting their leaves so they will be crisp just like kale chips. We are still in the kale mode with a lot of it in the garden---young leaves for a salad and the bigger ones for the pot.

Instead of throwing away parts of the vegetable, we will be eating the whole plant, including the stems, leaves and roots. For example, we’ll learn to sauté beet greens and chard stems, and add celery leaves to salads.

Instead of hummus spread, everybody will be embracing avocado spread. It is showing up on menus instead of butter, with sweet and savory toppings. People are looking for more sources of healthy fats.

Sure enough my new issue of ‘Saveur’ addressed some of these predictions. A whole page was dedicated to “Don’t Toss the Trimmings.” Here are a few clever tips from chefs to use every scrap of a vegetable.

Fry tomato skins in olive oil until they are crisp, and then use them to garnish a soup or another tomato dish.

Save your herb stems and roast meat on them instead of a rack. It is a nice aromatic cushion for resting your meat, too.

Turnip leaves and steams can be sautéed with garlic butter and tossed with handmade pasta, walnuts, anchovies, lemon, and puréed turnip bulbs. We southerners have been eating turnip leaves i.e. turnip greens for generations.

Here is a recipe for pickled radish greens which according to Joshua McFadden is delicious and he uses it every day at his restaurant in Portland Oregon.

 

Pickled Radish Greens

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook 5 oz. roughly chopped radish greens until wilted, about 1 minute. Drain and transfer to a bowl of ice water until chilled. Drain greens and squeeze dry. Heat 2 tbsp. olive oil in a 12” skillet over medium-high; cook greens until golden brown; 8-10 minutes, and transfer to a bowl. Stir in ¼ cup white wine vinegar, 4 sliced garlic cloves, 3 chiles de árbol, and kosher salt; let sit, covered, for 1 hour. Stir in 1/3 cup olive oil; chill in an airtight container up to 1 week. Makes about ¾ cup.

My new issue of ‘bon appétit’ for 2015 had some of the same trends but added more seeds and peppers to foods, like nigella seeds which have a flavor of cumin and caraway with a bitter edge. Veggies and flatbreads love them. Aleppo pepper is hot, literally, and is used as a crushed chile. It brings a warmth to everything it is sprinkled on.

This recipe in the latest issue of ‘bon appétit’ seems to signify the coming trends of the year. Use vegetables (every part) and use spices to enhance their flavor.

 

Crunchy Turnip, Apple, and Brussels Sprout Slaw

4 servings

3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

2 Tbsp. olive oil

1 tsp. finely grated peeled ginger

Kosher salt, and freshly ground black pepper

2 small white turnips, peeled, cut into matchsticks

1 medium sweet-tart apple (such as Pink Lady), cut into matchsticks

4 oz. Brussels sprouts, leaves, separated (Core them with a paring knife and the leaves will pop right off).

1 tsp. poppy seeds, plus more

Whisk lemon juice, oil, and ginger in a large bowl; season with salt and pepper. Add turnips, apple, Brussels sprouts, and 1 tsp. poppy seeds to coat. Serve slaw topped with more poppy seeds.

 

 

Black-eyed Pea, Collard, and Sweet Potato Stew

The end of the year has come and I always serve black-eyed peas and some greens on New Year’s Day. This recipe from ‘Southern Living’ December 2014 combines all the wonderful things you need, to have a good start to 2015. It has your peas, collards, and some sweet potatoes to boot! It is in a stew and you can make this ahead and reheat. Don’t be scared of the long list of ingredients, most of them are used to make a stock.

Wishing you and yours a very Happy New Year!

 

Black-Eyed Pea, Collard, and Sweet Potato Stew

Serves 6-8

1 bunch fresh collard greens (1 lb.)

6 whole cloves

1 medium-size yellow onion, halved

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

10 parsley stems

10 cilantro stems

4 fresh thyme sprigs

4 celery ribs, peeled and coarse chopped

3 bay leaves

3 large carrots, peeled and coarse chopped

1 garlic bulb, halved

2 (2-inch) pieces fresh ginger, peeled and crushed

1 (14.5-oz.) can diced tomatoes, drained

1 tsp. dried crushed red pepper

4 Tbsp. sugar

5 Tbsp. rice vinegar

4 Tbsp. soy sauce

2 smoked ham hocks

1 lb. chicken wings

1 lb. pork neck bones

1 (16-oz.) package dried black-eyed peas

2 medium-size sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed

2 tsp. kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Hot sauce

¼ cup coarsely chopped parsley leaves

¼ cup coarse chopped cilantro leaves

Remove and chop collard stems. Chop collard leaves. Insert 3 whole cloves in each onion half, and place onions, cut sides down, in hot oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add parsley stems, next 9 ingredients, and collard stems. Cook, stirring gently, 10 minutes or until vegetables begin to soften. Add 4 qt. water, and whisk in sugar, rice vinegar, and soy sauce; cook 1 minute, stirring to blend. Add ham hocks, chicken wings, and pork necks. Bring to a boil, skimming off foam. Reduce heat to low; simmer 3 hours or until ham hocks are tender and potlikker is rich in flavor, skimming as necessary.

Meanwhile, rise and sort peas. Bring peas and water to cover to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Cook 2 minutes, skimming off foam. Drain peas.

Pour potlikker through a fine wire-mesh strainer into an 8-cup glass measuring cup, reserving hocks, chicken wings, and pork neck bones; discard remaining solids. Remove and chop meat from ham hocks, chicken wings, and pork neck bones; discard bones and skin.

Wipe Dutch oven clean, and return potlikker to Dutch oven. Add drained peas, chopped ham, chicken, pork, and collard leaves to potlikker. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, 15 minutes or until peas are just tender. Stir in sweet potatoes, and cook, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes or until peas and sweet potatoes are tender. Stir in 2 tsp. kosher salt. Add freshly ground black pepper and hot sauce to taste. Adjust seasoning, if desired. Serve stew over hot cooked rice, and sprinkle with chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley and chopped fresh cilantro. Serve with hot sauce, if desired.

Christmas Casserole and Muffins

It is always a good idea to have a casserole ready to pop in the oven on Christmas morning. Christmas Eve can be a late affair and it is best to be prepared. I found a new casserole dish for Christmas morning and a muffin recipe (not a sweet one but savory) which I think are very delicious. Who can resist pimento cheese muffins? We liked these muffins a lot. The casserole has lots of cheese, mushrooms, and ham. Now what is not to like about that?

So have a very Merry Christmas everyone!

 

 Taken from the December 2014 issue of ‘Food and Wine’ magazine.

Christmas Morning Casserole

Serves 8

Butter, for greasing

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oi1

½ cup finely diced pepperoni (2oz.)

½ lb. shitake mushrooms, stems discarded and caps cut into ¾-inch pieces

1 medium onion, minced

1 red bell pepper, cut into ½-inch pieces

2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

8 large eggs

3 cups whole milk

1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

1 Tbsp. soy sauce

½ tsp. pepper

¾ lb. day-old challah, sliced 1 inch thick and cut into 1-inch dice (10 cups) (Challah is a Jewish egg bread that you can find in groceries.)

6 oz. Black Forest ham, thinly diced (1 ¼ cups)

1 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese (1/4 lb.)

1 cup shredded aged white cheddar cheese (1/4 lb.)

½ cup finely chopped scallions, plus thinly sliced scallions for garnish

Hot sauce, for serving

Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the pepperoni and cook over moderate heat until the fat is rendered, about 3 minutes. Add the shitake and cook until lightly browned and tender, about 5 minutes. Add the onion, bell pepper, and a generous pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally until softened and browned, about 7 minutes; let cool completely.

In a large bowl, beat the eggs with the milk, mustard, soy sauce, pepper and 2 teaspoons of salt. Add the cooled vegetable mixture, challah, ham, both cheeses and the chopped scallions and mix well. Scrape the mixture into the prepared baking dish, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat the oven to 350°. Uncover the casserole and bake for about 50 minutes, until it’s just set and the top is browned. Let stand for 10 minutes, then top with thinly sliced scallions and serve with hot sauce.

 

These muffins look like Christmas with their red, green, and yellow ingredients.

Pimento Cheese Muffins

Makes 12

2 ½ cups all-purpose flour

1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. smoked paprika

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

1 Tbsp. baking powder

1 tsp. freshly ground pepper

1 ½ cups buttermilk

2 large eggs

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and cooled

½ Tbsp. jarred harissa paste (I found this hot chili pepper paste at Whole Foods.)

¼ cup finely chopped chives

½ small yellow onion, minced

3 Tbsp. sliced scallions

3 Tbsp. minced parsley

1 ½ Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce

5 oz. shredded extra-sharp cheddar cheese

3 oz. drained jarred pimientos, chopped (1/2 cup)

Pimento cheese, for serving (optional)

Preheat the oven to 375°. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour with the paprika, salt, baking powder, baking soda and pepper. In a large bowl, whisk the buttermilk with the eggs, butter, harissa, chives, onion, scallions, parsley and Worcestershire until smooth. Whisk into the dry ingredients just until combined. Stir in the cheese and chopped pimentos.

Using a 1/3 cup measure, scoop the batter into 12 muffin cups. Bake for about 18 minutes, until golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Let cook for 5 minutes, then unmold and serve with pimento cheese.

 

Christmas Dinner Oysters and Toffee Pudding

It is crunch time again and I have to begin the planning of Christmas dinner. I am doing a prime rib roast with Yorkshire pudding and some greens on the side. I am starting with a new oyster appetizer that I found in the November 2014 issue of ‘Saveur’ magazine. Jane and Michel Stern travel around the world to out of the way places to find interesting things to eat. They can be heard on The Splendid Table on NPR and write for several food magazines. They were traveling around the Florida Panhandle and found some places to eat serving delicious shrimp and oysters. This oyster recipe is from Wakulla Springs Lodge in Wakulla Springs, Florida. I thought some of you might know this place since it is not that far from home.

In the December issue of’ Saveur’ Jane and Michel Stern were in England trying to find the best sticky toffee pudding recipe. Now I like sticky toffee pudding and try to find it whenever I am in England or Scotland. The Stern’s thought they had found the best at a café in northwestern England, but they were told this pudding had come from a big box restaurant, and were told that to find the best you had to go to Cartmel. There is none richer. They found Cartmel and the sign upon entering the town said, “The Home of Sticky Toffee.” This is dairy land and the pudding needs to be made with the best cream. This version I am giving is the closest to the classic English dessert, and is adapted from Rose Levy Beranbaum’s cookbook called Rose’s Heavenly Cakes published in 2009. Notice the dates are soaked in stout beer!

So here are my appetizer and dessert for Christmas dinner….compliments from Jane and Michel Stern.

Oysters Dupont

Serves 2-4

1/3 cup olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

3 tbsp. minced herbs, such as basil, oregano, and rosemary

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Coarse rock salt, for baking sheet

12 oysters, preferably Apalachicola, on the half shell

6 oz. feta, crumbled

6 oz. lump crabmeat

1 ½ tbsp. capers

Chopped parsley and thinly sliced scallions, for garnish

Hot sauce, lemon wedges, and toasted ciabatta, for serving (optional)

Heat oil and garlic in an 8” skillet over medium heat. Cook until garlic is golden, 4-5 minutes. Stir in herbs and pepper; let cool. Heat oven broiler. Line a baking sheet with rock salt about ¼ “deep. Nestle oysters onto bed of rock salt. Spoon reserved garlic oil over oysters and sprinkle with feta, crabmeat, and capers. Broil until feta is golden brown and the oysters begin curing at the edges, 2-4 minutes. Garnish with parsley and scallions; serve with hot sauce, lemon wedges, and roasted ciabatta, if you like.

 

Sticky Toffee Pudding

Serves 8-10

For the pudding:

1 cup stout beer, preferably Guinness Extra Stout

1 tsp. baking soda

10 large pitted dates

2 cups flour

2 tsp. ground cinnamon

1 tsp. baking powder

1 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

½ tsp. kosher salt

1 cup plus 2 tbsp. sugar

6 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened, plus more

1 ½ tsp. vanilla extract

3 eggs

For the toffee sauce:

1 cup packed light brown sugar

16 tbsp. unsalted butter, preferably Plugrá (can be found at Whole Foods) (It is a European style butter with higher fat content but made in America. I prefer Kerrygold which is made from grassfed cows.)

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped and reserved

½ cup heavy cream

1 tbsp. lemon juice

¼ tsp. kosher salt

Make the pudding: Heat oven to 350°. Boil beer in a 1-qt. saucepan. Stir in baking soda and dates; let cool. Transfer to a food processor; purée until smooth. Whisk flour, cinnamon, baking powder, nutmeg, and salt in a bowl. Using a stand mixer fitted with a whisk, beat sugar, butter, and vanilla until fluffy. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. With the motor running, slowly add dry ingredients, alternating with reserved date mixture, until a smooth batter forms; pour into a greased 9”x13” baking dish. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the pudding comes out clean, about 30 minutes.

Make the sauce: Simmer sugar, butter, and vanilla bean and seeds in a 4-qt. saucepan over medium until sugar is dissolved, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in cream, lemon juice, and salt. Strain sauce; let cool. Cut pudding into squares; drizzle with sauce.

 

Reveillon

We spent a few days in New Orleans last week and I thought about how much I think about food when I am there. Where do I get my next meal! But one does have to say that the Crescent City identity is based on its food traditions.

The Christmas celebration, known as Réveillon is a perfect example. From the French word réveil or “awakening,” the Réveillon tradition of holding lavish, late-night feasts on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve is celebrated around the world. In New Orleans, the practice began during the 1800’s when the city’s Catholic Creole population, many French immigrants among them, began breaking their Christmas Eve fast as they do in France, with a post-Midnight Mass family fete.

After days of cooking, a lavish buffet of traditional Creole dishes was laid out: oyster stew, turtle soup, or rich gumbos; savory soufflés; cold beef daube glacé; roasted game and game birds and bread puddings. Wines and cordials flowed to heighten the revelry, which lasted until the sun rose on Christmas Day.

At the turn of the century, American holiday traditions began supplanting these Réveillon gatherings and by the 1940’s, Réveillon was all but extinct.

In the late 1980’s Ralph Brennan partnered with some French Quarter business owners to resurrect Réveillon in the restaurants in order to stimulate the local economy at an otherwise slow time of the year. It was a huge success and now Réveillon is celebrated nightly at many fine restaurants during the Christmas season, showcasing menus that are both traditional and contemporary.

I think this is a wonderful idea to do at home if you cannot go to a fine restaurant in New Orleans. The recipes given by Mr. Brennan for ‘Fine Cooking Magazine’ are truly delicious. The starter is a wonderful crab-cauliflower bisque followed by oysters patties; a creamy potato-artichoke gratin, garlicky green beans and a stuffed pork tenderloin. There is always the classic breading pudding for dessert.

I decided to try the green beans and the gratin to add to one of my Christmas meals and I would give them a heads up. Very nice dishes! Give these a try and have your own Réveillon.

Recipes from the 2014 ‘Fine Cooking Magazine’

Garlicky Green Bean with Almonds

Serves 8 to 10

Kosher salt

2 lb. green beans, trimmed (No green beans in the garden but I did freeze some last summer.)

1 Tbs. olive oil

½ cup sliced almonds

5 medium cloves garlic, minced

2 Tbs. unsalted butter

1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice (Our lemon trees have ripe fruit now.)

Freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the beans and cook, stirring once, until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and refrigerate until ready to use. (The green beans can be covered and refrigerated up to 2 days ahead.)

Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over low heat. Add the almonds and cook, stirring, until golden, 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 10 seconds; transfer to a plate.

Add the butter and cook, stirring, until it begins to brown, 3 minutes. Add the beans and toss to coat. Cook, stirring often, until tender, 4 minutes. Add the lemon juice, season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve the beans topped with the almonds.

Potato-Artichoke Gratin

Serves 8

2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more for the pan

1 ½ lbs. onions, thinly sliced (5 cups)

Kosher salt

3 medium cloves garlic, minced

2 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, sliced ¼ inch thick

1 tsp. minced fresh oregano

1 tsp. minced fresh rosemary

Freshly ground black pepper

1 lb. frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and patted dry

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup half-and-half

4 oz. (1/2 tsp.) mascarpone

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions, sprinkle with ½ tsp. salt, and cook, stirring often, until wilted, about 10 minutes. Turn the heat down to medium low, add the garlic, and cook, stirring every few minutes and adding water 1 Tbs. at a time if the bottom of the skillet gets too dark, until the onions are caramel brown, about 20 minutes. Add 2 Tbs. water and scrape the pan well. Spread the onions on a baking sheet and let cool to room temperature. (You can refrigerate the onions in an airtight container for up to 1 week.)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F.

Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish. Spread the onions on the bottom of the dish. Top with half of the potatoes, shingling them in an even layer. Sprinkle with ½ tsp. of each herb, a heaping ½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Arrange half of the artichokes over the potatoes. Repeat with the remaining potatoes, herbs, salt, pepper and artichokes. Whisk together the cream, half-and-half, and mascarpone; pour over the potatoes. (You can refrigerate the gratin at this point for up to 4 hours.)

Bake until tender when pierced with a fork and golden brown in spots, 1 to 1½ hours. Cool for at least 30 minutes before serving.

 

 

Thanksgiving Leftovers '14

Every year I wonder what to do with those leftovers. What about a good turkey soup and of course the turkey sandwich. I found a good soup recipe in the November issue of ‘Food and Wine’ and a really mile-high sandwich in the Williams-Sonoma holiday catalogue. Of course they wanted to sell you the Panini press! These recipes were good and easy and that is just what you need after all the Thanksgiving activities.

 

Turkey and Wild Rice Soup

Serves 8

4 Tbsp. butter

3 celery ribs, cut into ½ -inch pieces

1 medium onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 ½ tsp. finely chopped thyme

Salt and pepper

¼ cup all-purpose flour

1 cup wild rice (5oz.)

2 quarts chicken stock or low-sodium broth

2 cups water

4 cups bite-size pieces of roasted turkey

1 cup heavy cream

In a large saucepan, melt the butter. Add the celery, carrots, onion, garlic, thyme and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables just start to soften, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and cook, stirring, until evenly coated and lightly browned, about 3 minutes.

Add the wild rice to the saucepan and gradually stir in the stock and water. Bring to a boil, then simmer over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes. Add the turkey and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the wild rice is tender, 10-15 minutes longer. Stir in the cream and season with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls and serve.

Make ahead: The chicken soup can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. Reheat gently before serving.

 

Turkey Panini with Thanksgiving Leftovers (This is a whopper!)

1 sandwich:

2 slices rye bread

Olive oil for brushing

2 Tbs. cranberry fig chutney

2 slices leftover roast turkey

1 slice Swiss cheese

¼ cup leftover cooked stuffing (dressing)

¼ cup leftover mashed potatoes

¼ cup leftover Brussels sprouts (You did do Brussels sprouts, didn’t you?)

¼ cup turkey gravy, warmed

Preheat Panini press on “sear” setting.

Brush one side of each bread slice with olive oil. Turn one slice over, spread with chutney and top with turkey. Swill cheese, stuffing, mashed potatoes and Brussels sprouts. Cover with remaining bread slice, oiled side up.

Cook sandwich in Panini press until bread is golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove top slice of bread and pour gravy on top of sandwich. Return top slice, cut sandwich in half and serve.

Sides

Yes, it is that time of year again. Cool (cold!) weather, leaves turning, and you have to start thinking of your Thanksgiving meal. I am cooking this year after eating out in past years. But I do enjoy the leftovers!

I always think the sides are the best, and I do try at least one new thing every year. All the new magazines were hot on Brussels sprouts and since I do like them (as well as the rest of the family) this is my year for a new take on them. My favorite recipe has always been Brussels sprouts with pancetta and balsamic vinegar (I have given this recipe in the past). But I have found two other recipes that are very good and these have no pork in them, so a few less calories.

These roasted Brussels sprouts have fresh thyme and a little cider vinegar, and with the caramelized onions make for a tasty treat.

From “Fine Cooking” magazine, Dec./Jan. 2015

Roasted Brussels sprouts with Caramelized Onions

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

6 cups thinly sliced sweet onions (from 2 large)

1 medium clove garlic, thinly sliced

Kosher salt

1 Tbs. plus ½ tsp. cider vinegar; more as needed

1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves

Freshly ground black pepper

1 ½ lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved or quartered if large

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F.

Heat 2 Tbs. of the olive oil in a 5-quart heavy-duty pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic; reduce the heat to medium, and cook without stirring until the onions begin to brown on the bottom, 5 to 7 minutes. Sprinkle with ½ tsp. salt and stir with a wooden spatula. Continue to cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot frequently and adjusting the heat as necessary, until the onions are very soft and evenly browned, 20-25 minutes. Stir in the vinegar and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the thyme and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, toss the sprouts with the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Roast in a single layer on a large rimmed baking sheet, stirring once or twice, until tender, 20-25 minutes.

Toss the Brussels sprouts with the onions. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and vinegar. Serve at once.

 

Browned-Butter Seared Brussels Sprouts with Cauliflower Cream

Serves 6

1 ½ cups cauliflower florets (from half a medium head)

1 cup heavy cream

5 sprigs fresh thyme

5 oz. (10 Tbs.) unsalted butter

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 large lemon

1 ½ to 2 lb. Brussels sprouts, preferably small, trimmed and quartered

¼ cup dry white wine

1 Tbs. capers

Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving

Combine the cauliflower, cream, thyme, 4 Tbs. of the butter, ½ tsp. salt, and a pinch of pepper in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium-heat and cook until tender, about 8 minutes. Remove the thyme, transfer to a blender, and puree until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm.

Using a sharp paring knife, cut off the ends of the lemon. Stand it on an end and cut away the rest of the peel, including the white pith. Cut each lemon segment free from the membranes, then slice the segments crosswise in half.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Boil the Brussels sprouts until bright green and slightly tender, about 4 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Heat the remaining 6 Tbs. of butter in a 12-inch skillet over high heat until it starts to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the Brussels sprouts and cook, stirring occasionally, until they just begin to brown, about  4 minutes. Add the lemon segments, wine, and capers and cook until the sprouts are completely tender, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, spoon the cauliflower cream down the center of the platter and top with the sprouts. Grate some Parmigiano over the sprouts and serve.

Gumbo '14

It is that time of year when tailgating is the thing and people are putting forth their best gumbo. My October issues of ‘Food and Wine’ and ‘Saveur’ were full of gumbo articles so I decided to get in on the action.

Written memories of gumbo go back centuries, but no one knows when exactly it was born. Many theorize its origins might be the bouillabaisse made by early French settlers in Louisiana. And with Africans laboring in New Orleans’ Creole kitchens, it’s easy to see how okra made it into the mix, too. As far as roux goes, blond versions are often used as a base for French sauces and vegetables dishes. Some people surmise, that one fateful day, a cook might have burned his roux, then added it to the pot anyway, satisfying Louisianians’ desire for more intense flavors.

Cajuns, largely French Acadians, who were exiled to the bayou in the early 1700s for refusing to swear loyalty to the British crown were forced to make their gumbos with whatever ingredients they could muster, while Creole versions, prepared in the cosmopolitan kitchens of New Orleans, with their mixture of European and African influences, were more refined.

South Louisiana and especially New Orleans have many good restaurants for gumbo. ‘Saveur’ lists its favorite ones: Bread and Circus Provision in Lafayette, LA, Café Vermilionville in Lafayette, LA, Commander’s Palace in New Orleans, Herbsaint in New Orleans, Jolie’s Louisiana Bistro in Lafayette, LA, La Provence Restaurant in Lacombe, LA, Li’l Dizzy’s Café in New Orleans, and Prejeans’s in Lafayette, LA.

I was taken with the recipe given in ‘Saveur’ by Donald Link for his fried chicken and Andouille gumbo. His recipe used the oil he uses to fry the chicken to make the roux. I gave it a try and it was delicious. It did take a little more time to fry the chicken and he takes a long time to make his roux, but it was worth the effort. I gave some to my son in New Orleans and he thought it was delicious.

From October, 2014 issue of ‘Saveur’ Magazine.

Fried Chicken and Andouille Gumbo

Serves 6-8

1 ¼ cups plus 2 tbsp. canola oil

1 3 ½ -4lb. chicken, cut into 8 pieces

2 ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Kosher salt, to taste

2 cups flour

1 ½ tsp. dark chile powder

1 ½ tsp. filé powder

1 tsp. cayenne

1 tsp. ground white pepper

1 tsp. paprika

3 cloves garlic, minced

3 stalks celery, minced

1 green bell pepper, minced

1 jalapeño, minced

1 poblano, minced

1 yellow onion, minced

12 cups chicken stock

1 lb. Andouille, halved and sliced

12 oz. okra, trimmed and sliced 1/2'’ thick

Sliced scallions for garnish

Cooked white rice for serving

Heat 1 ¼ cups oil in an 8-quart Dutch oven until a deep-fry thermometer reads 350°F. Season chicken with 1 tsp. black pepper and salt; toss with ½ cup of flour. Working in batches, fry chicken until golden; transfer to paper towels to drain.

Add remaining flour to skillet; whisk until smooth. Reduce heat to medium-low; cook, whisking until color of roux is dark chocolate, 1-1 ½ hours! Add remaining black pepper, the chile and filé powders, cayenne, white pepper, paprika, garlic, celery, bell pepper, jalapeño, poblano, and onion; cook until soft, 10-12 minutes. Add stock; boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, cook, stirring occasionally and skimming fat as needed, until slightly thickened, about 30 minutes. Add reserved chicken; cook until chicken is cooked through, about 45 minutes. Add Andouille; cook until chicken is falling off the bone, about 1 hour.

Using tongs, transfer chicken to a cutting board and let cool slightly; shred, discarding skin and bones, and return to pot. Heat remaining oil in a 12” skillet over medium-high. Cook okra until brown and slightly crisp, 8-10 minutes, then stir into gumbo; cook 15 minutes. Garnish with scallions; serve with rice.

 

 

Taos

You can take the high road or the low road from Santa Fe. Most tourists go one way and come back the other. The low road winds up the Rio Grande where it makes a huge gorge at the elevation of Taos. Not the Grand Canyon but impressive nevertheless. The 1965 bridge is the 5^th highest in the US. One of our party elected not to walk out on the bridge to get the view of the river below.

Taos is home to the Taos Pueblo, a site inhabited for about a thousand years. In 1992 Taos Pueblo was inscribed onto the World Heritage List by UNESCO as: The First Living World Heritage. Few live there now as there is no electricity and running water. But many come back for feast days and several work in the pueblo. We had a native boy giving us the tour of this home of “the People of the Red Willow,” which line the stream where those living there go to get water daily. We had some Indian fry bread. They usually serve it to tourists with powdered sugar but one lady was using it for a bun for her hamburgers. We talked with one lady who was painting pottery. She was very proud of her son who had graduated from Dartmouth in New Hampshire, one of the Ivy League schools established to educate the Native Americans. A granddaughter was thinking of going to Wellesley next year. The tribe speaks their native “Tiwa” and have their own school at the pueblo through eighth grade.

We lodged while in Taos, at the former home of Mabel Dodge Luhan, an eccentric easterner who had come west in the early 1900’s and married one of the local Taos Indians, Tony Luhan. She entertained TH Lawrence, Georgia O’Keeffe, Ansel Adams, Martha Graham among others. Dennis Hooper owned the house in the late 20^th century. We visited Dennis Hooper’s grave in the Jesus Nazareno Cemetery near the San Francisco de Asis Church where his funeral was held. The church was made famous by a painting by O’Keeffe.  Mabel is buried in the Kit Carson Cemetery (where Kit and his wife are buried) in Taos and Tony Luhan’s grave is at Taos Pueblo. Graves are mostly marked with crosses and highly decorated with ‘stuff.’ We visited Kit Carson’s home in town and an 1804 hacienda. There are no exterior windows or doors in the hacienda for protective purposes, only a portal leading into the courtyard. The Indian pueblos originally did not have doors or windows either, but a hole in the roof and ladders that they could pull up to keep out intruders. There is a lot of art in Taos as well as Santa Fe but the town is smaller and more manageable. We visited all the museums. My favorite was the Millicent Rogers Museum which has a collection of her turquoise and silver jewelry. This style maker, socialite and designer from New York lived in Taos and appeared in photo spreads in ‘Vogue’ and ‘Harper’s Bazaar.’ My husband particularly liked the Taos Art Museum. It was the home of Russian, Nicolai Fechin and is a showcase of not only his paintings but his woodwork. He hand-carved the lintels, staircases, bedsteads, and more, in a combination of Russian Tartar and local styles.

Breakfasts at the Mabel Dodge house were huge and served communally. My husband particularly liked the egg dishes. One special breakfast had spinach with eggs with some herb that I could not define. We had wonderful blueberry corn pancakes, great coffee and fruit. If I return to Taos I would stay longer at the Mabel Dodge House. It is a homey, quirky place. One bathroom has 3 walls of windows and no curtains. Not to worry. DH Lawrence painted designs on all the windows. We also enjoyed a dinner at Doc Martin’s. It is located in the former home of the local MD and has one room known as the delivery where he did in fact deliver babies, in the day. We had a cup of chili for starters. Served with lettuce, tomato and a tortilla on the side, it could have been the meal. But we went on with enchiladas and all the trimmings. Because of a mix-up with the wine we got a free dessert. We boxed it up and had it with coffee back at Mabel’s who always had coffee available.

Upon returning home I found a recipe for Navajo fry bread. This bread is still the traditional bread served at New Mexico fairs, craft show, and Indian powpows. The recipe calls for poking a hole so the bread will rise, but tradition says that poking the hole lets out evil spirits. The bread reminds me of New Orleans’ beignets.

Navajo Fry Bread

Makes 4 servings

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons shortening

2/3 cup lukewarm water

Vegetable oil for frying

Jam, honey, or powdered sugar

In a medium-sized bowl, combine flour, baking powder, and salt; cut in shortening until mixture has the appearance of fine crumbs. Sprinkle in water, 1 tablespoon at a time. Use a fork to toss until flour is moistened and dough almost cleans side of bowl. Dough should be soft, but not sticky.

On a lightly floured surface, knead dough until smooth. Form into ball, cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Heat oil in a large skillet to 400°F. Tear off a piece of dough about the size of a peach. Pat and stretch until thin and round, about 6-8 inches in diameter.

Poke a hole through the middle and drip into sizzling vegetable oil.

Fry circles, turning once, until golden brown, about 1 minute per side. Bread will puff beautifully. Serve with jam, honey, or powdered sugar.

Another type of bread that you will see on menus is called sopapillas. This bread is much like the Navajo fry bread except it uses yeast and sugar which makes it a sweet bread for dessert and is usually served with honey and cinnamon. It also can be made savory and stuffed with meat and beans.

I would recommend a visit to Taos. It is an enchanting place with so much art and history. Museums are abundant and the food is delicious.

The Santa Fe Trail

I should be discussing Thanksgiving menus, but I have just had a sensational trip to New Mexico. I had  never been to northern New Mexico, and our friends in Wilmington suggested we meet there for a week and see the sights. The last week of October turned out to be outstandingly beautiful. Yellow was the operative word---the brilliant yellow of the cottonwoods filled the squares and the stream banks. The aspens also have the same yellow color. The landscape was orange and red and purple and brown but the trees were YELLOW!

We flew into Albuquerque and spent the first night in a 1930’s hacienda which is now a nice hotel and restaurant. It is also a working farm and dairy----farm to table with a spotlight on lavender. Then on to Santa Fe, along the old Santa Fe Trail up the Rio Grande. The Santa Fe style of architecture has been preserved and enhanced. No way to mistake where you are. Santa Fe is the capital of New Mexico and has been ever since the Spanish came north in 1610. The modern 20^th century capital building is in the Santa Fe style and is perhaps unique as a public building as all of the walls of the corridors display art—several floors of paintings, sculpture, weaving and some of it is for sale. Santa Fe is the third largest seller of art behind only New York and Paris. Canyon Road is about a half mile long and chock-a-block with galleries. (The guide book says eighty.) We had fine dining at a James Beard award winning restaurant, The Compound, and New Mexican cuisine at the ‘long line to get in’ restaurants, Café Pasqual’s and the Shed. Margaritas come in many versions and my husband found a nice Mexican beer, Negro Modelo. It’s the number one selling dark beer in Mexico and number two in the US.

Another old adobe house for our B&B where we built a fire in our kiva---the ubiquitous corner fireplace found in the Santa Fe style homes. We had hot sunny days and chilly nights.

Besides the art work to be seen in the museums and galleries, the Casas Reales, Palace of the Governors, is a must see. Built in 1610-1612, it’s one of the oldest government buildings in the United States. Governor Lew Wallace penned Ben Hur here in the late 1870’s!

Green chile soup or stew seemed to be on every menu. There are many versions of this pork stew but this one is delicious. We ate it for two days and it was easy to make. It is not too spicy and the pork melts in your mouth.

Taken from the cookbook, New Mexico Cuisine, by Clyde Casey.

Green Chile Pork Stew

Makes 4-6 servings

2 pounds lean pork, cubed

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 large white onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 4-ounce cans New Mexico green chiles, drained

1 large potato, peeled and diced

2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

3-4 cups water

½ teaspoon dried-leaf Mexican oregano

In a large skillet, brown the pork in the oil, over medium heat. Remove pork and place in a kettle or stockpot.

Put onions in skillet, adding more oil if necessary, and sauté until they are soft.

Add garlic and cook for a few additional minutes. Remove onions and garlic and add to stockpot. Pour a little of the water into the skillet, bring to a boil and deglaze.

Pour liquid from skillet over the pork. Add all remaining ingredients, cover and simmer for 1-2 hours, or until meat is very tender and starting to fall apart.

 

Parker House Rolls

Americans seem to have a sort of love affair with soft-crusted, lightly-sweetened, rich-dough white bread. This is one of the reasons Parker House Rolls became so popular. And they are good, when they are done right.

For a long stretch of time in early America, there was little flour available to cook with; and what there was had a high price tab, due to the trouble and expense of shipping it over from Europe. Resourceful cooks learned how to handle the most abundant grain, corn, by playing to its strengths and turning it into various quick breads.

Parker House Rolls themselves appeared in the 1870’s, at the posh Parker House Hotel in Boston. They are one of those rare foods whose origins can be traced to a specific time and place. The story of its creation has (of course) been lost to time, but tales generally involve an angry chef grabbing handfuls of made-up rolls, and slamming them into a hot oven. With no more time to make more, he was forced to serve them, and they were a hit.

The unique shape is what sets these rolls apart; they are rounded, or cut of a thick sheet of dough, then flattened in the middle, and folded over to make a sort of clamshell shape. As they rise and bake, they puff and open up a little, making for more surface area to turn into a lovely crust. The dough usually contains milk and butter, and is slightly sweetened. When made correctly, the rolls taste rich and light at the same time, soft and gently chewy, and just plain good.

Parker House Rolls are therefore one of those New England trademark culinary offerings and one that is perfect for this time of year. These rolls would be great with your holiday dinners so I thought you might want to give then a trial run. Whether you are serving roasted turkey, hearty soup, or spaghetti, these rolls would be a wonderful addition to help clean your plate.

‘Food and Wine’ October 2014 had a recipe for Parker House Rolls, but it was not so different from one I found in the cookbook, Joy of Cooking.

Parker House Rolls

Makes 3 dozen (can freeze unbaked rolls)

One ¼-oz. package active dry yeast

½ cup warm water

½ cup sugar

2 sticks unsalted butter, melted and cooled (1 cup)

2 cups whole milk, at room temperature

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

7 ½ to 8 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for shaping

Flaky sea salt, for sprinkling

Step 1: Make the Dough

In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, mix the yeast with the water and 1 teaspoon of the sugar. Let stand until foamy, 10 minutes. Beat in the remaining sugar, ¾ cup of the butter and the milk, eggs and kosher salt. At low speed, stir in the 7 ½ cups of flour until the dough comes together; add more flour by the tablespoons if necessary. Mix at medium speed until the dough forms a loose ball around the hook, 3 minutes. Brush a large bowl with some of the melted butter. Transfer the dough to the bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let stand in a warm spot until doubled in bulk, 1 ½ hours.

Step 2: Form the Rolls

Preheat the oven to 375° and line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and shape it into a 9-by-16 inch rectangle. Using a floured knife, cut the dough lengthwise into 3 strips, then cut each strip crosswise into 12 small strips. Working with 1 piece at a time, fold it unevenly so the top half overlaps the bottom half. Tuck the overhang under and place the roll seam side down on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough, forming 2 rows of 9 rolls on each baking sheet. Each roll should just touch its neighbors, but leave about 4 inches between the rows.

Step 3: Bake the Rolls

Bake the rolls for about 18 minutes until browned; rotate the baking sheets from top to bottom and front to back halfway through baking. Immediately brush the rolls with the remaining melted butter and sprinkle with sea salt. Transfer the rolls to a rack and let cool for 15 minutes before serving. To reheat, toast in a 350° oven for about 10 minutes.

The fully formed unbaked rolls can be frozen for up to 1 month. Bake from frozen.

 

 

 

Devon '14

I have been reporting annually on the Red Devon Conferences for several years now---Gourmet Beef on Grass. This year we visited Brookview Farm in Winchester Kentucky, just east of Lexington. This is an old family farm dating back to the 18^th century but Jacob Owens and his wife and children started restructuring the family farm in 2000----growing grass finished beef without steroids, antibiotics, etc. and he came to Devon in 2006. The Devon breed is coming back. One producer from Utah told us anecdotally about his county agent holding a taste test of several grain finished steaks from several breeds and just to round things out he asked Kelly Heath for one of his grass finished Devon steaks. No special preparation, Kelly just went to his freezer and got one. And he won.

Another taste test closer to home was reported in the ‘Devon USA’ spring ’14 issue. Dr. Ron Harrell (cardiologist from Dothan) and his brother-in-law Les Nichols wondered how Jeff Moore’s Dixie Devon would compare with some other breeds on their farm. Four steers (a Devon cross, a purebred Angus, a purebred South Poll and a Waygu/Angus cross) were grazed together for over a year on Dr. Harrell’s pastures. The farm is only twenty miles from the University of Florida experiment station in Mariana. All the steers were hauled and processed the same day, hung for 12 days of aging and then cut by a professor from the University of Florida. A burger, a ribeye, and a brisket were prepared by professional chefs, seasoned only with salt and pepper, and served blind to the panel of owners and a professional taste tester who put the Devon on top. One chef, Forest Dilmore, a five-time southeastern champion brisket cooker said the Devon was the best brisket he had seen. He said he came with the preconceived notion that the Waygu cross would be first and then the Angus with the others bringing up the rear. He was surprised with the marbling with all these grass finished steers, but the Devon was on top.

The Conference had speakers on various topics. We did a pasture walk and on this farm saw some beautiful Devons. A show and sale was a part of the weekend. All the food was prepared on the farm from Brookview’s Devon. The farm had an old post office next door which has been converted to the Graze Market and Café, whose chef, South African Craig de Villiers, uses locally produced products in all his menus. He closed his Café to cook for us for two days.

One interesting presentation was Dr. Greg Renfro from the University of Kentucky butchering a half steer showing us how it is done and where the different cuts come from and why they are tender or maybe not so much. He noted that the flat iron steak was the 2^nd most tender cut in the entire carcass. Some pieces can be made more tender depending on how they are cut.

A recipe from the Graze restaurant cooks the skirt steak which is a long flat steak with a fibrous grain, and comes from the underbelly of the steer and is well marbled with fat. This recipe is soaked in a bourbon-based marinate, which lends a bourbon flavor to the dish.

Kentucky Bourbon Skirt Steak

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

½ cup bourbon

½ cup firmly packed brown sugar

1/3 cup soy sauce

2 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce

½ tsp. Tabasco sauce

1 Tbs. Dijon mustard

1 tsp. cornstarch

3 lb. skirt steak (grass-fed)

Baked beans for serving with steak

In a bowl, combine the bourbon, brown sugar, soy sauce, Worcestershire, Tabasco, mustard and cornstarch and stir until sugar has dissolved.

Place the steak in a plastic bag and pour the marinade over the meat. Seal the bag and marinade the beef for the day.

Preheat a cast iron grill pan over medium-high heat. Remove the steak from the marinade and place it on the grill pan. Cook, turning once, 3 to 5 minutes per side for medium rare, or until done to your liking.

Transfer the steak to a cutting board, cover loosely with aluminum foil and rest for 5 minutes. Cut the steak into thin slices and arrange on a warmed platter. Serve with the baked beans.

I also bought a 2 lb. grass-fed brisket form Whole Foods and cooked it for 12 hours on 215°F. I only used salt and pepper and let the fat layer be on top. Not a bad slow roast and really simple.

Croque Monsieur

We were traveling to our annual Red Devon conference which was in Lexington, Kentucky this year, but stopped along the way in Birmingham to have lunch at one of Frank Stitt’s restaurants, Fon Fon.  Fon Fon is Frank’s nod to French and I was ready for a French treat. We chose to eat out back under the arbor as it was a beautiful day. As you know I go on and on about Frank Stitt, so I had a surprise when he came into the restaurant to eat beside us on the patio. He was eating with a chef from Monroe, Louisiana who was cooking at Highlands that evening. Since I know him and he knows me “somewhat” I told him I was still writing about him in the Andalusia Star News and probably everyone was tired of me going on and on about him. That got a good laugh out of him. What does Frank Stitt eat for lunch? Well, he had a glass of white wine and he and the chef from Monroe shared a charcuterie plate. I never saw his main course. They talked of new restaurants and new chefs in New Orleans, but I tried not to listen! But a treat for me to eat at his restaurant and see him again!

Our meal was excellent. Starting with a sazarac, (which was good as any in New Orleans), then we also had a charcuterie plate, consisting of many tasty meats, chicken sausage, radishes, small slices of potatoes, and small pickles. For my main course I chose a croque monsieur, the classic French ham and cheese sandwich. It was so good and I realized that I had not had one this good in years. I came home and found several different versions of how to prepare this sandwich. There are different versions as to the type of ham or cheese you can use. Most use Swiss or Gruyѐre cheese, Black Forest ham, or boiled ham.

I have given two recipes below so you can have a choice for your sandwich. One is taken from a bistro in Paris and one is from Harry’s Bar Cookbook (Harry’s Bar is in Venice). How could you go wrong with either recipe?

 

Taken from the Paris Café Cookbook, by Daniel Young, 1998.

AU GENERAL LA FAYETTE’S

Croque Monsieur

Makes 4 servings

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/3 cup flour

2 ¼ cups milk

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Pinch of ground nutmeg

2 cups (about ¾ pound) grated Gruyѐre or Swiss cheese

½ cup light colored beer

4 slices French country bread (large round loaf)

4 slices ham

Make a Mornay sauce. Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat. Add the flour and mix briskly with a whisk for 2 minutes.

Still over low heat, add 2 cups of the milk, continuing to mix briskly with the whisk. When the sauce comes to a boil, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

Add ½ cup of the Gruyѐre to complete the Mornay sauce, remove from the heat and let cool.

Combine the remaining ¼ cup milk and the beer in a bowl. Add the remaining Gruyѐre to this liquid, let soak 2 minutes, and drain.

Top each slice of bread liberally with the Mornay sauce, sprinkle with the soaked Gruyѐre, and cook in a toaster oven or under a broiler until golden brown.

 

Taken from the Harry’s Bar Cookbook, by Arrigo Cipriani, published 1991.

This Croque Monsieur is fried in olive oil.

Makes six sandwiches

½ pound Swiss cheese at room temperature, diced

1 large egg yolk

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

¼ teaspoon dry mustard or 1 teaspoon prepared Dijon mustard

1/8 teaspoon cayenne mustard

Salt

Cream, if needed, to thin the cheese mixture

12 thin slices homemade-style unsweetened white bread, crusts removed

¼ pound smoked boiled ham, diced

Olive oil for frying

Put the cheese, egg yolk, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, and cayenne in a food processor fitted with the steel blade and process until smooth. Taste and season with salt. If the mixture is too thick to spread easily, thin it with a little cream.

Spread the cheese mixture over one side of all the bread slices. Arrange the ham over the cheese on half the pieces of bread and invert the remaining bread over the ham. Press the sandwiches together firmly.

Film the bottom of a heavy skillet with oil and heat it over medium-high heat until it is very hot. Add as many sandwiches as will fit in the pan and fry, turning once, until they are golden and crisp. Repeat with the remaining sandwiches, adding more oil to the pan as necessary. Cut the sandwiches in half and serve hot, wrapped in a paper napkin.

 

England

On our way to Sussex, south of London, we visited Churchill’s country retreat, Chartwell. My husband thinks Churchill was the greatest man of the 20^th century. The dining room is large but cozy, looking out over the weald of Kent. A Churchill quote captured my attention, “My idea of a good dinner is first to have good food, then discuss good food and after this good food has been discussed, to discuss a good topic with me as chief conversationalist.” But of course he started the evening with his dry martini. His buddy, Franklin Roosevelt, liked his martinis too, and even had his own equipment and miniature bottles strapped into a hard little suitcase!

We spent the rest of the trip at Stone House in the village of Rushlake Green in Sussex. This country house hotel is still the home of the Dunn’s whose ancestors built the house in 1495. There is an 18^th century addition with two large sitting rooms off the two-story entrance hall. Our room was in the 15^th century section. Drinks can be had in the parlor in the evening. My husband was excited to find Talisker Scotch whiskey available. It is a smoky, single malt made in Skye and not widely available. So Scotch it was even in southern England. Of course there was talk about the upcoming vote on the independence of Scotland. My heart said yes, but I think the people chose the next week more on the finances of the move to vote no.

Dinner was served in the old section of the house and was quite nice. We were told when we booked that we needed to dress for dinner. The lady of the house, Mrs. Dunn, is the chef and I will share with you some of her dishes that we most liked.  There was a great endive salad, followed by the main course of a chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese and chorizo and wrapped with prosciutto.  This was accompanied by several vegetables from the garden served family style: new potatoes, butternut squash, and cabbage. Again the kitchen garden comes into play these days in Britain. A beautiful walnut torte was for dessert.

In Sussex we visited two more gardens of the 20^th century. Perhaps the greatest is the Sissinghurst Castle garden of the eccentric Vita Sackville-West and her husband, Harold Nicholson. Christopher Lloyd who developed the garden at Great Dixter is also no longer in residence. Christo, as his friends called him, died just a few years ago and those friends established a trust to keep and maintain the gardens. Here the garden rooms are so densely planted it is hard to walk. Dahlias are a highlight of this garden at this time of the year. Another design element I especially liked was his massing of potted plants with different blooms, foliage, and color near the entrance doors. Another fun space was a rose garden designed by Lutyens that he pulled up and filled with exotic plants reminiscent of a tropical garden. Two other places we revisited were Batemans, the home of Rudyard Kipling and the 15^th century moated house, Ightham Mote, with the only Grade I listed dog kennel (dog house) in England!

Endive Salad

2 servings

Chop together 4 endives (they are small), 1 avocado (chopped), ¼ cup of pinenuts, ½ cup of lardons, and some sultanas can be used (I did not have any so did not use them). Toss this together with a vinaigrette dressing of your choice. This was crunchy and delicious.

 

Chicken with Goat Cheese and Chorizo

Serves 2

2 skinless chicken breasts

4 ozs. goat cheese

4 ozs. chorizo (You can buy ground chorizo sausage at most grocery stores.)

½ cups of grapes

4 pieces of prosciutto

Pound the chicken breasts between two pieces of saran wrap until thin but you are still able to roll.

In a food processor mix the goat cheese, chorizo, and grapes until a nice firm mixture.

Spread ½ of the mixture on each chicken breast and roll up and tuck in the ends. Place the prosciutto on top of each chicken breast.

Bake at 350° for 30 minutes. Let cool before cutting. Serve with potatoes and any green vegetable.

 

New Potatoes

Take 1 lb. of small new potatoes and bake them for 20 minutes at 350°. After baking, place them in a small skillet with 1 tablespoons of butter, 1 teaspoon of sugar, and ¼ cup of fresh mint. Mix together, add salt and pepper, and serve immediately.

Highgrove

We have just returned from a wonderful week in England visiting country houses and gardens. Our first stop was Tetbury at the Snooty Fox Inn. Supper was bangers and mash in the pub. Breakfast is my husband’s favorite meal in England---the full cooked English breakfast (eggs, sausage, bacon, mushrooms, tomatoes, toast). The only part of it he eschews is the baked beans.

Our main goal was to visit Highgrove, the home and gardens of Prince Charles. Out tickets were purchased in May since they are limited in number and the gardens are not open when the Prince is there. When we visited his grandmother, the late Queen Mother’s garden in Scotland last year, we had also to plan our trip around where the Prince was, or more correctly, where he was not. We had directions to Highgrove, but there was no sign---at all. We made a turn, drove down a road and came to a security guard. Security was tight. We had to show out passports! and tickets at two different checkpoints and no photos were allowed---anywhere. We had a guide with us at all times, ostensibly to guide and answer questions, and I suspect to keep us in tow. Highgrove is a multifaceted and beautiful garden and the guide shared with us His Royal Highness’ (as she referred to him) ideas and preferences. There are 12 gardeners to carry out his organic approach to cultivating old plants and heritage livestock. He even likes to use draft horses to assist with the garden work rather than mechanized equipment.

After our two hour tour we ended in the restaurant just in time for lunch. The produce from the kitchen garden, which unfortunately we did not get to visit, is used to prepare the dishes offered. We had a leek and potato soup with a cheese scone, which was enhanced by a spicy fruit chutney. I liked the chutney so much I brought three jars home. I have developed my own leek and potato soup recipe and used a cheese scone recipe from the King Arthur’s Flour Baker’s Companion. This was called the “gardener’s lunch” Not too much but just right! I was looking back in my journal and noted we ate a hot soup and scone last year at the Castle of Mey, the Queen Mother’s home.

 

Leek and Potato Soup

Serves 4

 Sauté two leeks in a tablespoon of butter for about 10 minutes. Add 1 clove garlic and sauté for another minute. Add 2 peeled and cubed Yukon Gold potatoes and to the leeks and garlic. Then add 4 cups of chicken broth or vegetable broth. Season with salt and pepper and cook on medium for 20 minutes or until the potatoes are soft. Cool slightly. Puree in batches in a blender. Put in bowls and serve warm.

 

Cheddar Scones

12 scones

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

6 tablespoons cold butter, cut into pieces

2 large eggs, beaten

¼ cup cream or sour cream

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Sift together the flour, salt, sugar, and baking powder. Rub in the butter with your fingers.

Mix together the eggs, cream, and mustard. Add this to the dry ingredients. Stir in the grated cheese. Mix just until combined. This is the consistency of drop-cookie dough.

Liberally flour the counter and your hands. Pat the dough into a 6x9-inch rectangle, about 1 inch thick. Cut the rectangle into 6 smaller rectangles, and cut each smaller rectangle into two triangles, forming 12 triangular scones. (You can also cut 12 round scones). Place on a well-greased cookie sheet.

Bake for 20 minutes, or until nicely browned and a cake tester inserted into a scone comes out dry.

 

After lunch we visited nearby Hidcote Garden. We realized that we needed GPS to find these country gardens that aren’t well signposted and maps that aren’t detailed enough. At our next stop we had the manager print out directions to our destinations which were extremely helpful. The worst part of the driving was trying to find a signpost telling us which road we were on---not the left side driving, nor the left hand gear shifting. The roads are narrow with no verges (another British term) in many places and those wonderful signs, “Oncoming Traffic in the Middle of the Road!”  We had pre-purchased National Trust passes to decrease the cost of the several gardens we were visiting. Hidcote is one of the several gardens we visited that were created in the 20^th century. The garden was created by an American, Major Lawrence Johnston, starting in 1907 and reaching its peak in the between the war years of the 1920’s and 1930’s. The most outstanding feature, I think, of this garden is its double herbaceous border using red as the predominate color. White gardens are popular and he had one but the red is different.