New Year's 2014

Sean Brock who is a visionary Charleston chef, went to Dakar in Senegal to find the origin of low-country dishes like hoppin’ John and gumbo. As the chef at McGrady’s and Husk in Charleston and also Husk in Nashville, Brock is a strong voice in the Southern culinary revivalist scene; he’s attempting to bring back not just the dishes, but the pig breeds, heirloom vegetable varieties and near-extinct grains of the region. In his trip to Senegal, he visited the kitchens of three different women to see how Senegalese cooks go about making some of his favorite dishes: hoppin’ John (a stew of rice and black-eyed peas), collard greens and more.

How appropriate to try some of these dishes as the New Year approaches. We tend to eat greens and some form of hoppin’ John on this day to bring luck for the year. The two dishes I tried were delicious and just a small change from the traditional beans and rice and collards. The Senegalese do not use pork to flavor (most are Muslim) so Sean added smoked oysters on top of the dish of hoppin’ John to add a meaty flavor and it really works. The collards are topped with roasted peanuts which add a great crunch.

“Every culture has its own incarnation of rice and beans,” says Sean Brock. “You only begin to understand what a person is all about after you have tasted their version.”

These are delicious dishes. Start out the New Year right with something a little different!

Recipes taken from ‘Food and Wine’ November 2013.

 

Hoppin’ John with Smoked Oysters

4 servings

 

Peas and Gravy

2 quarts chicken stock or low-sodium broth

1 cup peas, soaked overnight and drained (Brock uses Sea Island Red Peas) I used regular black-eyed peas

1 medium onion, quartered

1 small carrot, halved

1 small jalapeño, halved lengthwise

2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed

10 thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoons unsalted butter

 

Rice

Kosher salt

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 cup Carolina Gold rice, preferably Anson Mills Carolina Gold (I did not use this but used a long grain rice)

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed

Two 3-ounce cans smoked oysters, drained

Thinly sliced scallions, for garnish

 

Prepare peas and gravy: in a large pot, bring the chicken stock to a boil, add the peas, onion, carrot, celery, jalapeño, garlic, thyme sprigs and bay leaf and cook over moderate heat, partially covered, until the peas are tender, about 1 hour. Season with salt. Drain the peas, reserving the broth. Pick out and discard the vegetables, thyme sprigs and bay leaf.

Transfer 1 ½ cups of the peas to a blender, reserving the rest. Add 2 cups of the broth, the vinegar and the butter and puree until smooth. Transfer the gravy to a bowl and keep warm. Reserve the remaining broth for another use.

Make the rice: Preheat the oven to 300°. In a medium pot, bring 7 cups of water to a boil with 1 teaspoon of salt and the cayenne. Add the rice and simmer over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the rice is al dente, about 12 minutes. Drain and rinse the rice under cold water; drain again.

Spread the rice on a baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Dot the butter evenly over the rice and bake for 15 minutes longer, stirring occasionally, until the grains are almost dry and separated. Transfer the rice to a bowl and stir in the reserved peas. Serve the rice and peas in bowls, topped with pea gravy, oysters and scallions.

 

Sautéed Collard Greens with Roasted Peanuts

4 servings

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 bunches tender young collard greens (1 ½ pounds) stems and ribs discarded. Leaves thinly sliced

2 cups packed baby arugula (2 ounces), finely chopped

2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 dried arbol chilies, crumbled (2 teaspoons)

Kosher salt

½ cup roasted peanuts, chopped

In a very large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until fragrant about 30 seconds. Add the collards and arugula in large handfuls, letting each batch wilt slightly before adding more. Cook, tossing frequently, until the collards start to soften, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the lemon zest, lemon juice and crumbled chilies, season with salt and toss to evenly coat the greens. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Transfer the greens to a serving platter; top with the peanuts and serve.

Happy New Year! and good luck! and lots of green in your pocket-book or on your plate!

 

Christmas Eve '13

It is time to start preparing for the big day and deciding what to cook. Every year I ponder what I can do that is different, but seem to always come back to a pork or beef roast or perhaps ham for my Christmas day meal. I want to do a special dinner for Christmas Eve this year since it is my anniversary. We always get home late from the Christmas Eve service so I decided I could have a good meal if I worked ahead. Since I sing in the choir on Christmas Eve, we always eat afterward. ‘Southern Living’ had a menu that seemed to be just perfect. A light tomato bisque that can be made ahead and kept in the refrigerator for 4 days is a simple first course. The salmon dish can be cooked in just a few minutes. So here is my 2013 Christmas Eve meal, even if it is eaten at midnight. I could have a little champagne before the meal!

Merry Christmas to you all!

Taken from ‘Southern Living’ December 2013 issue.

Tomato Bisque

Serves 4

3 (14.5oz.) cans good quality diced tomatoes

2 large onions, diced (about 2 cups)

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 bay leaves

4 Tbsp. tomato paste

3 Tbsp. fresh brewed coffee

1 Tbsp. jarred beef soup base

1 tsp. jarred chicken soup base

2 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs

1 ½ tsp. dried thyme

½ cup heavy cream

2 tsp. fresh lemon juice

1 ½ tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. black pepper

Garnishes: whipped cream, golden caviar, fresh parsley or chive sprigs

Bring first 10 ingredients and 5 cups water to a boil in a large stockpot over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-high; simmer, stirring occasionally, 20 minutes or until reduced by one-fourth. Cool 15 minutes.

Process with a blender until smooth. Stir in cream and next 3 ingredients. Garnish as desired. Serve immediately.

Note: Refrigerate in an airtight container up to 4 days, or freeze up to 8 weeks. Reheat over medium heat until soup simmers. Do not boil.

 

Pecan-and-Dill Crusted Salmon

This salmon dish is really delicious. I did a trial run to see how it would go and found it so easy and wonderful. A few simple side dishes of perhaps potatoes and green beans or broccoli would be just perfect with this dish. A simple dessert would be fine also.

This makes 10-12 servings but I bought a wild caught salmon and only used a pound and it was good for two meals. It may be expensive but it does go a long way. Shorten the cooking time for just one pound.

1 ½ cups pecan halves

6 Tbsp. butter, melted

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 ½ tsp. dried dill weed

1 (3-3 ½ lb.) boneless, skinless side of salmon

1 ¼ tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Parchment paper

Preheat oven to 400°. Pulse first 4 ingredients in a food processor 5 or 6 times or until mixture resembles coarse crumbs.

Sprinkle salmon with salt and pepper; place on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Spread pecan mixture over salmon. Bake 18-20 minutes or just until salmon flakes with a fork. And there you have it.

 

 

 

 

Christmas Appetizers

Most of us will be invited to some sort of Christmas party and maybe we will be asked to bring an appetizer. The magazines are full of new ideas and actually I like appetizers as much as the real meal. It is a chance to sample a small bite and another small bite if it is good.

I have been working on some appetizers and really like some of the outcomes. We sample them with drinks in the evening and decide if they are worthy of a real party dish. I like hot appetizers but you need to have some cold ones since it is so hard to have all of them hot.

Here I have included some of my newest appetizers and they are easy and good and should be something you can bring, of use for your own party.

Cheesy Caramelized Onion Flatbreads

Prep: 12 minutes

Cook: 20 minutes

Stand: 5 minutes

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided

½ large white onion, very thinly sliced

¼ teaspoon salt, divided

2 soft flatbreads or naan (about 4 to 5 ounces each) I used the naan bread and it was excellent.

½ cup fresh ricotta cheese

 1 large garlic clove, minced

4 ounces fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced (about 6 slices)

¼ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese

¾ teaspoon black sesame seeds

1 tablespoon thinly sliced fresh basil

½ teaspoon orange zest

Preheat oven to 450°F. Heat 1 ½ tablespoons oil in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and ½ teaspoon salt; sauté 8 minutes or until onions are lightly caramelized. Transfer to a small bowl.

Brush flatbreads with remaining 1 ½ teaspoons oil. Stir together ricotta, garlic, and remaining 1/8 teaspoon salt in a small mixing bowl, and spread onto flatbreads. Top evenly with cheeses and caramelized onion. Sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Place flatbreads on a large baking sheet, and bake 12 minutes or until cheese is melted and flatbreads are crisp. Let stand 5 minutes. Sprinkle with basil and orange zest; and cut into slices. Serves 8.

I have done this recipe twice now and it is very good and tasty.

 

Goat Cheese Poppers with Honey

Prep: 20 minutes

Freeze: 20 minutes

Cook: 3 minutes

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 large egg

¾ teaspoon sea salt

2/3 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)

1 (11-ounce) log soft goat cheese, at room temperature

2 cups grapeseed oil or canola oil

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon minced chives

¼ teaspoon dried crushed red pepper

Combine flour and black pepper in a small bowl. Whisk together egg, ½ teaspoon sea salt, and 2 tablespoons water in a second small bowl. Combine panko and remaining ½ teaspoon sea salt in another small bowl.

Roll goat cheese into 24 balls (about 1 tablespoon each). Roll each goat cheese ball in flour mixture, dip in egg mixture, and dredge in panko mixture. Freeze 20 minutes or until firm.

Heat oil to 350° in a deep saucepan over medium-high heat. Fry goat cheese, in batches, 1 to 2 minutes or until golden and crisp on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon, and place on paper towels to drain.

Arrange goat cheese poppers on a platter, drizzle with honey, and sprinkle with chives and red pepper. Serve immediately. Makes 8-10 servings.

Mini Corn Cakes with Smoked Salmon and Dill Crème Fraîche

Make the corn cakes in the morning and top with salmon and dill crème fraîche just before serving.

1 (8.25 oz.) can cream-style corn

1 cup plain white cornmeal

1 cup sour cream

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

1 ½ tsp. baking powder

1 tsp. table salt

2 large eggs

1 cup crème fraîche

2 Tbsp. finely chopped dill weed

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

2 (4-oz.) packages thinly sliced smoked salmon, flaked

Garnish: fresh dill

Preheat oven to 350°. Whisk together first 7 ingredients until smooth. Spoon 1 heaping teaspoonful corn mixture into each cup of a well-greased 24-cup miniature muffin pan.

Bake at 350° for 20 minutes. Cool 10 minutes.

Stir together crème fraîche, dill, and lemon juice. Top muffins with crème fraîche and salmon.

 

 

 

 

Birthday Dinner

My husband is having a birthday on December 6^th and I am cooking with my friend in North Carolina to prepare him a nice meal. My friend Alice (a friend of 35 years) will do half of the menu and I will do the other half. My husband chose a French menu with 6 dishes to prepare and actually all the dishes can be semi-prepared in advance.

I am doing the appetizer called gougѐres, which are little delicate cheese puffs. They are easy to do but taste so good and impress everyone. I have noticed since I started working on this menu that these little cheese puffs have been in several magazines. They would be great for an appetizer for your Christmas meal or for a cocktail bite for New Year’s Eve.

Alice will be doing a French onion soup with the wonderful cheese Comté. Our main course will be a chicken with apples and apple brandy. A potato cake and a leek dish will be the side dishes for the chicken. I will be doing the chicken dish and have spent some time finding the Calvados (apple brandy) but finally got some in a liquor store in New Orleans. Dessert is a Gâteau of apples which are caramelized before being baked.  YUM!

Recipes taken from ‘bon appétit’ October 2013 issue.

Gougѐres

Makes about 50

6 Tbsp. (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

¾ tsp. kosher salt

Pinch of nutmeg

1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour

4 large eggs

6 oz. (1 ½ cups) grated Comté cheese or Gruyѐre

½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1 large egg yolk

Preheat the oven to 400°. Bring butter, salt, nutmeg, and 1 cup water to a boil in a medium saucepan, stirring until butter is melted. Remove from heat, add flour, and stir to combine.

Cook mixture over low heat, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon, until mixture pulls away from sides of pan and forms a ball, about 2 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring vigorously, until a dry film forms on bottom and sides of pan and dough is no longer sticky, about 2 minutes longer. Remove pan from heat and let dough cool slightly, about 2 minutes. Mix in whole eggs one at a time, incorporating fully between additions. Mix in cheese and pepper.

Scrape dough into a piping bag fitted with a ½” round tip (alternatively, use a plastic bag with a ½” opening cut diagonally from 1 corner whichî is what I did). Pipe 1” rounds about 2” apart onto 2 parchment lined baking sheets. Whisk egg yolk and 1 tsp. water in a small bowl: brush rounds with egg wash.

Bake gougѐres until puffed and golden and dry in the center (they should sound hollow when tapped) 20-25 minutes.

Do Ahead: Dough can be made 4 hours ahead. Cover and chill. Gougѐres can be baked 2 hours ahead; reheat before serving.

Poulet Vallée d’Auge

Named for a region in Normandy known for its apples (and Calvados), the traditional recipe combines both in a rich, creamy sauce.

6 servings

6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided

3 firm, tart apples (such as Pink Lady or Braeburn; about 1 lb.) peeled, cored, quartered

1 Tbsp. olive oil

2 3 ½ -4lb. chickens, quartered

Kosher salt, and freshly ground pepper

1 leek, white and pale-green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced crosswise ¼ “ thick

2 shallots, finely chopped

½ cup Calvados (apple brandy)

¾ cup apple cider

4 sprigs thyme

2 bay leaves

½ cup low-sodium chicken broth

½ lb. crimini (baby bella) mushrooms, trimmed, halved

½ cup crѐme fraÎche

1 large egg yolk

Heat 2 Tbsp. butter in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add apples and cook, turning occasionally, until golden in spots, 10-12 minutes. Transfer apples to a plate and set aside.

Increase heat to medium-high and add oil and 1 Tbsp. butter to pot. Season chicken with salt and pepper and, working in batches, cook until browned about 5 minutes per side. Transfer chicken to another plate; set aside.

Add leek and shallots to pot; cook, stirring often, until softened about 4 minutes. Remove pot from heat, add Calvados, and ignite with a long match or lighter. After flames die down, return pot to heat and add cider. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until slightly reduced, about 3 minutes.

Return reserved chicken to pot and add thyme, bay leaves, and broth. Bring to a boil; reduce heat, cover pot, and simmer, adding reserved apples back to pot halfway through, until chicken is cooked through, 20-25 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 Tbsp. butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and cook, tossing occasionally, until browned and softened, 6-8 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Transfer mushrooms to a plate.

Whisk crème fraîche and egg yolk in a small bowl. Using a slotted spoon, transfer chicken and apples to a baking sheet and remove pot from heat. Whisk crème fraîche mixture into cooking liquid in pot. Gently mix in chicken, apples, and mushrooms.

Do Ahead: Chicken and apples can be cooked 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Cook mushrooms and finish sauce just before serving.