Vietnam 2012 and Pho

For our trip to Southeast Asia, we decided to enter through Saigon (officially Ho Chi Minh City). Why there you ask? Well, we had never been there and visiting Vietnam had been on our bucket list for a few years. We found Ho Chi Minh City a vibrant city, fueled by Vietnam’s booming economy and its expat community. The vibrant restaurant scene is one of the hottest in Southeast Asia. And the city was getting ready for Tet, the Lunar New Year, and decorations were going up everywhere.  The Lunar New Year is one of the biggest holidays in Asia.

We did go to a lot of restaurants and most of them were very good; many were located in French Colonial buildings that had been renovated/restored. A nice way to end the day was having drinks at a roof-top bar overlooking the city, especially at the Caravelle Hotel and its bar called Saigon, Saigon. This is where the correspondents stayed during the war. Another good bar was the M Bar at the Majestic Hotel, a rejuvenated French Colonial from 1925, where we spent two nights. Also, breakfast was served on the fifth floor where there was also a great view of the Saigon River.

You can eat very cheaply in Saigon. A bowl of pho, the famous Vietnamese noodle soup can be had for a few dollars. It is eaten all day. It was on our breakfast buffets at the hotel and it is on most restaurant menus. It is sold by street vendors cooking on the sidewalk or you can have it at some 24 hour fast food place. One of our better meals with fried shrimp rolls, pho, and a beer was only for $11.00. That was for two. Interestingly this inexpensive restaurant was Fodor’s only 3-star recommendation! There are upscale restaurants also, but even those were not that expensive. Since this is a tropical climate, and it was 90 degrees while we were there. Many wonderful tropical fruits abound. We had passion fruit, bananas, oranges, rambutans and lechees. Dragon fruit was new to us.  It looks like a red bulb with appendages. Pealed it is a white with black seed and tastes somewhat like a kiwi.  Till we found out the name we called it a white kiwi.

Shopping was great with many silk stores, of which Khaisilk on Dong Khai Street was the best. I found the fashions very upscale and appealing. I came home with a few new scarfs and two new outfits, so I did ok for myself. Silver is very popular with carvings of elephants and decorative bowls and jewelry. I did get some silver earrings in the shape of a lotus. The flower is very popular here. The whole plant is used.  The roots are eaten, the flowers and leaves are decorative and used as offerings to Buddha.  We also got a chance to eat the green seeds—just pop them out of the seed pod and into your mouth for a snack.  The dried seed pods are also used as decoration.

The one thing disturbing about Ho Chi Minh City was the number of noisy scooters. There are few street crossing signs so you literally just step out (very carefully) and make your way across the street. I will admit that it is scary at first and you never want to cross the street. But my husband made me do it and we never got hit. The scooter people just seem to go around you. You have to avoid the cars, taxis, and buses also! There are 9 million people in Saigon and I believe most of them travel on scooters.

 

 

 

Pho (pronounced “fuh”) is a classic Vietnamese soup. The toppings are traditionally served on the side. I did see at Whole Foods the base for pho, so if you are in a hurry you can buy the base and add the meat or chicken and add the toppings of your choice.

From November 2012 issue of The Food Network Magazine

Beef Pho

 

For the Broth:

2 beef shanks with meat on them (about 2 ¼ pounds total)

3 large yellow onions, halved

1 6-inch piece ginger, halved lengthwise

1 head garlic, halved crosswise

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Kosher salt

2 cinnamon sticks

4 star anise pods

3 tablespoons black peppercorns

3 quarts low-sodium beef broth

1/3 cup fish sauce

 

For the Soup:

1 pound flat rice noodles

8 ounces deli-sliced roast beef, torn into pieces

4 cups bean sprouts

1 large bunch Thai basil or mint leaves, torn (Basil is served with many dishes and seems to almost be a staple at the table.)

2 jalapeño peppers (red and/or green), thinly sliced

1 large red onion, thinly sliced

Hoisin sauce and/or Sriracha (Asian chili sauce), for serving

 

Make the broth: Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 450ᴼ. Toss the beef shanks, onions, ginger and garlic with the vegetable oil on a rimmed baking sheet and season generously with salt. Roast, turning once halfway through, until the meat and vegetables are slightly charred, about 30 minutes. Transfer to a large pot.

Meanwhile, toast the cinnamon sticks, star anise pods and peppercorns in a small skillet over medium heat, shaking the pan, 5 minutes.

Add the beef broth, 2 quarts water, the toasted spices and the fish sauce to the pot with the beef shanks. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook, skimming off any foam that rises to the top, until the meat is tender, 1 hour to 1 hour, 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer the beef shanks to a cutting board; strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve into another large pot. (The broth can be made up to 2 days ahead; let cool, then refrigerate in a covered container.)

Shred the meat from the shanks with two forks, discarding any bits of cartilage, then stir in the broth. Discard the bones.

Cook the noodles as the label directs. Divide the broth and shredded meat among bowls, then add the noodles and roast beef. Top with the bean sprouts, basil, jalapeños and red onion; serve with hoisin sauce and/or Sriracha.

Serves 6.

Serve with chopsticks, but you need a spoon also for the broth.  A fork will work as well.