We have been eating in New Orleans (again) and really like Cochon which I have mentioned before.  I was happy to see it listed as one of the 20 most important restaurants in America by ‘bon appétit’ in their March 2013 issue. They did not choose their restaurants by the fanciest, trendiest, or even the ones with the most stars. These places define how we eat out. These are the restaurants that matter right now.

Cochon’s food is innovative and inspiring. Every time I go I am impressed with their new ways with salads. Their roasted oysters and fried boudin are excellent, but then there is stuffed pig’s foot and rabbit and dumplings for an unusual twist to the menu. Cochon has been open for seven years in the Warehouse District in New Orleans, and Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski have made their mark with playing with all the nasty bits of Nose-to-Tail cooking.

Link is from south Louisiana.  He cooked for a while in San Francisco but came back to New Orleans in 2000 to open Herbsaint with Susan Spicer of Bayona’s.  It is not my favorite of his restaurants.  I prefer Cochon and also like Butcher which serves a bar menu and sandwiches. Link won the James Beard’s Best Chef South in 2007 and Cochon was nominated for Best New Restaurant.  In 2012 Link was nominated for Outstanding Chef. And his first cookbook Real Cajun: Rustic Home Cooking from Donald Link’s Louisiana won for Best American Cookbook.

I really liked a raw sliced zucchini salad I had there a couple years ago and have added it to my repertoire. (See my September 10, 2011 column.) Speaking of the salads--I had a kale salad on my last visit to Cochon and it was so wonderful. I really hadn’t thought of using raw kale in a salad. Kale is in season now, from November to March and all the cooking magazines have recipes for it cooked or steamed and it seems to be the green of the moment. 

Kale is a great green with all kinds of health benefits. It can provide you with some cholesterol-lowering benefits and more benefits if you steam for 5 minutes.  Kale also has risk-lowering benefits for cancers and this now includes 5 different types of cancer. Researchers have identified 45 different flavonoids in kale with koempferol and quercetin heading the list. Kale’s flavonoids combine both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits.

I have grown kale in the garden but not really well.  My best greens are collards along with turnip greens and mustard.  But I shall try again.  I have added this kale salad to my repertoire.  We have had it numerous times since discovering it.  I think it a great hearty salad for the winter. So come fall I shall plant kale again and try harder.

This is my version of the kale salad from Cochon.

Kale Salad with Tarragon Vinaigrette

Serves 4

1 bunch of kale (you can use the curly type)

4 oz. of feta cheese (crumbled)

1 shallot (chopped fine)

2 sprigs of tarragon (chopped) (A little tarragon goes a long way.)

1 Tablespoon of Dijon mustard

2 Tablespoons white wine vinegar (could use lemon juice)

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Tear the kale from its stem and chop into thin strips. (Cochon really chops thin.) Take the feta cheese and mash into the chopped kale so the leaves are coated with the cheese.

Mix in a small bowl the shallot, mustard, vinegar, tarragon and olive oil. Mix and let sit for at least 5 minutes so the flavors mesh.

Pour the dressing over the feta and kale mixture and mix carefully.

Serve immediately.

I initially bought some tarragon for the dressing since it grows very poorly in our climate.  I did the salad so many times I ran out of the tarragon so I have been doing the salad without---still very good but try it first with the tarragon.

Even if you do not try this salad, try and include kale in your weekly meal planning. Just sautéing with some olive oil for a few minutes will help in adding some good nutrition to your meals.

 

 

Cambodia and Ankor

The next leg of our journey took us to Cambodia, specifically Siem Reap (see-em ree-ep). Ankor was unknown to the West until French naturalist Henri Mouhot stumbled onto it in 1861. Siem Reap was the place to be in Southeast Asia in the 1960’s. It saw a steady stream of the rich and famous (Jacqueline Kennedy). After three decades of slumber, it is well and truly back as one of the most popular destinations on the planet. We can attest to this because there were thousands of tourist at the temples of Angkor, mainly Chinese, Japanese, Europeans and Russians. Not many Americans though. The life-support system for the temples of Angkor, Cambodia’s eighth wonder of the world, Siem Reap was always destined for great things, but few people saw it coming this fast. It has reinvented itself as the epicenter of the new Cambodia with more guesthouses and hotels than temples, as well as world class dining and sumptuous spas.

Siem Reap is a charming town with old-French colonial shop-houses, shady tree lined boulevards and a slow-flowing river. But the tourist tide has arrived and locals are riding the wave. This is great news for the long-suffering Khmers, but it has transformed the town into a pulsating place for visitors. A few of the locals we talked to said that business was good in January and February and then things slacked off because of the heat. We saw so many outstanding hotels and wondered how they could be filled year round.

Angkor Wat is the mother of all temples. You could almost say, welcome to heaven on earth. Angkor is the earthly representation of Mt. Meru, the Mt. Olympus of the Hindu faith and the abode of ancient gods. The Cambodian god-king of old strove to better their ancestors in the size, scale and symmetry of their temples, culminating in the world’s largest religious building, Angkor Wat, dating from the 12^th century. The hundreds of temples surviving today are but the sacred skeleton of the vast political, religious and social center of Cambodia’s ancient Khmer empire, a city that, at its zenith, boasted a population of one million when London was a scrawny town of 50,000. The houses, public buildings and palaces of Angkor were constructed of wood---now long decayed---because the right to dwell in structures of brick or stone was reserved for the gods.

These temples are the heart and soul of Cambodia. The temples of Angkor are a source of inspiration and national pride to all Khmers as they struggle to rebuild their lives after years of terror and trauma. The temples are up there with the Great Wall of China and the Taj Mahal and I can say that after several days of flying they were worth it. A must see on your bucket list.

We decided to do a cooking class in Angkor. We chose the first cooking school in Siem Reap since 2003. It was called Le Tigre de Papier’s Cooking School. We took a little tuk-tuk down into the old market and found the school/restaurant. We got to choose two things from the menu that we wanted to cook and then we went into the market to find some of the ingredients. The teacher was rather casual about everything, but I found it strange that I chose a beef dish and ended up cooking a chicken dish. No beef I was finally told. My husband (I thought he needed to participate also) chose spring rolls and amok chicken. Now amok chicken is a traditional Khmer dish and it is tasty, but uses too much coconut for me, but my husband loved it. I chose a banana flower salad for one of my things to cook because I really like this salad and had tasted it at another restaurant. The real problem for this salad is finding a banana flower, but you can grow bananas around here and can eventually secure yourself a banana flower. The cooking class was exhausting I must say. We had to chop everything really, really small and then pound the ingredients to make a paste. We were too tired to eat the meal!! But it was a lovely experience actually and for $13.00 per person I would say I had quite a meal and a memorable Khmer cooking class.

 

Banana Flower Salad

Serves 2

Banana flower (½ pieces clean)

1 small carrot (1/2  peeled and grated)

Some sweet basil (handful)

Lemon juice (2 tablespoons)

Sugar (1/2 teaspoon)

Salt (a pinch)

Sweet chili (1/2 piece)

Peanuts (3 tablespoons)

Chicken powder (1/2 teaspoon chicken bouillon powder or cube)

Cilantro (handful)

Dressing:

Shallot  (1 chopped)

Garlic (2 cloves chopped)

Ginger root (1/2 inch chopped)

Sweet chili (1/2 chopped)

1 ladle of water

Sugar (1 tablespoon)

Chicken powder (1 tablespoon chicken bouillon powder or cube)

How to do:

Clean and slice banana flower into cool water that has lime or lemon juice squeezed into the water. Squeeze banana of all water and add carrots, basil, lemon juice, sugar, salt, chili, chicken powder and cilantro. Mix dressing ingredients and add to banana mixture. Put peanuts on top. Very delicious and a pretty presentation! We also learned how to create the carrot and pepper flowers for the decoration.

 

 

Vietnam 2012 and Pho

For our trip to Southeast Asia, we decided to enter through Saigon (officially Ho Chi Minh City). Why there you ask? Well, we had never been there and visiting Vietnam had been on our bucket list for a few years. We found Ho Chi Minh City a vibrant city, fueled by Vietnam’s booming economy and its expat community. The vibrant restaurant scene is one of the hottest in Southeast Asia. And the city was getting ready for Tet, the Lunar New Year, and decorations were going up everywhere.  The Lunar New Year is one of the biggest holidays in Asia.

We did go to a lot of restaurants and most of them were very good; many were located in French Colonial buildings that had been renovated/restored. A nice way to end the day was having drinks at a roof-top bar overlooking the city, especially at the Caravelle Hotel and its bar called Saigon, Saigon. This is where the correspondents stayed during the war. Another good bar was the M Bar at the Majestic Hotel, a rejuvenated French Colonial from 1925, where we spent two nights. Also, breakfast was served on the fifth floor where there was also a great view of the Saigon River.

You can eat very cheaply in Saigon. A bowl of pho, the famous Vietnamese noodle soup can be had for a few dollars. It is eaten all day. It was on our breakfast buffets at the hotel and it is on most restaurant menus. It is sold by street vendors cooking on the sidewalk or you can have it at some 24 hour fast food place. One of our better meals with fried shrimp rolls, pho, and a beer was only for $11.00. That was for two. Interestingly this inexpensive restaurant was Fodor’s only 3-star recommendation! There are upscale restaurants also, but even those were not that expensive. Since this is a tropical climate, and it was 90 degrees while we were there. Many wonderful tropical fruits abound. We had passion fruit, bananas, oranges, rambutans and lechees. Dragon fruit was new to us.  It looks like a red bulb with appendages. Pealed it is a white with black seed and tastes somewhat like a kiwi.  Till we found out the name we called it a white kiwi.

Shopping was great with many silk stores, of which Khaisilk on Dong Khai Street was the best. I found the fashions very upscale and appealing. I came home with a few new scarfs and two new outfits, so I did ok for myself. Silver is very popular with carvings of elephants and decorative bowls and jewelry. I did get some silver earrings in the shape of a lotus. The flower is very popular here. The whole plant is used.  The roots are eaten, the flowers and leaves are decorative and used as offerings to Buddha.  We also got a chance to eat the green seeds—just pop them out of the seed pod and into your mouth for a snack.  The dried seed pods are also used as decoration.

The one thing disturbing about Ho Chi Minh City was the number of noisy scooters. There are few street crossing signs so you literally just step out (very carefully) and make your way across the street. I will admit that it is scary at first and you never want to cross the street. But my husband made me do it and we never got hit. The scooter people just seem to go around you. You have to avoid the cars, taxis, and buses also! There are 9 million people in Saigon and I believe most of them travel on scooters.

 

 

 

Pho (pronounced “fuh”) is a classic Vietnamese soup. The toppings are traditionally served on the side. I did see at Whole Foods the base for pho, so if you are in a hurry you can buy the base and add the meat or chicken and add the toppings of your choice.

From November 2012 issue of The Food Network Magazine

Beef Pho

 

For the Broth:

2 beef shanks with meat on them (about 2 ¼ pounds total)

3 large yellow onions, halved

1 6-inch piece ginger, halved lengthwise

1 head garlic, halved crosswise

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Kosher salt

2 cinnamon sticks

4 star anise pods

3 tablespoons black peppercorns

3 quarts low-sodium beef broth

1/3 cup fish sauce

 

For the Soup:

1 pound flat rice noodles

8 ounces deli-sliced roast beef, torn into pieces

4 cups bean sprouts

1 large bunch Thai basil or mint leaves, torn (Basil is served with many dishes and seems to almost be a staple at the table.)

2 jalapeño peppers (red and/or green), thinly sliced

1 large red onion, thinly sliced

Hoisin sauce and/or Sriracha (Asian chili sauce), for serving

 

Make the broth: Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 450ᴼ. Toss the beef shanks, onions, ginger and garlic with the vegetable oil on a rimmed baking sheet and season generously with salt. Roast, turning once halfway through, until the meat and vegetables are slightly charred, about 30 minutes. Transfer to a large pot.

Meanwhile, toast the cinnamon sticks, star anise pods and peppercorns in a small skillet over medium heat, shaking the pan, 5 minutes.

Add the beef broth, 2 quarts water, the toasted spices and the fish sauce to the pot with the beef shanks. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook, skimming off any foam that rises to the top, until the meat is tender, 1 hour to 1 hour, 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer the beef shanks to a cutting board; strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve into another large pot. (The broth can be made up to 2 days ahead; let cool, then refrigerate in a covered container.)

Shred the meat from the shanks with two forks, discarding any bits of cartilage, then stir in the broth. Discard the bones.

Cook the noodles as the label directs. Divide the broth and shredded meat among bowls, then add the noodles and roast beef. Top with the bean sprouts, basil, jalapeños and red onion; serve with hoisin sauce and/or Sriracha.

Serves 6.

Serve with chopsticks, but you need a spoon also for the broth.  A fork will work as well.

 

 

Super Bowl 2013 Stew

Everyone is getting excited about the Super Bowl and all those pick up foods that are really not so healthy. I think a better idea would be to have a hearty stew or chili. Every part of the country tends to have their take on chilies and stews.

Texas has a famous big bowl of red which uses beef chuck, and spices of cumin and oregano. They cook it slow and low just like their barbecue. Ohio has a chili but it is different because it is served over spaghetti. The Greek immigrant restaurateurs who invented the dish in the 1920s seasoned it with the same spices they used in moussaka, including cinnamon and allspice. No one knows how the chili ended up over the pasta.

New Mexico has a green chili stew made of pork and green chili peppers. The peppers are the local secret: Green chili stew purists insist on using Hatch chilies grown in Hatch, New Mexico, which are known for their distinctive flavor and moderate heat. Since we cannot find these you can substitute Anaheim chili peppers which are usually in the stores. That chili reminded me of the posole that I wrote about last summer that we had in New Mexico.  That version had beans in it as well.

I made a big batch of Green Chili Stew and it lasted for several days. It would be a great dish for the Super Bowl. I also think the Cincinnati chili would be another choice for feeding a crowd. Try these and see how easy Super Bowl entertaining can be. May the best team win!

 

Taken from the February, 2013 issue of ‘The Food Network Magazine’

Green Chili Stew

Serves 8

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 pounds boneless pork shoulder, diced

Kosher salt

1 large white onion, diced

1 ½ cups diced Hatch or Anaheim chili peppers

1 small green bell pepper, diced

1 small red bell pepper, diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

4 cups low-sodium chicken broth

1 pound Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and diced

2 15-ounce cans white hominy, drained and rinsed

1 large bunch cilantro, leaves chopped

2 tablespoons cornstarch

Flour tortillas, warmed for serving

Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Sprinkle the pork with 1 teaspoon salt. Working in batches, cook the pork, stirring, until browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and discard the fat from the pot.

Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in the pot. Add the onion, peppers, bell peppers and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 7 minutes. Return the pork to the pot along with the chicken broth, cover and bring to a boil. Stir the stew and reduce the heat to medium-low; simmer, covered, until the pork is tender, about 30 minutes.

Increase the heat to medium-high and bring the stew to a low boil. Add the potatoes, hominy and enough water to cover the pork and potatoes. Add half of the cilantro and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are tender and the stew is slightly thickened, about 30 minutes.

Whisk the cornstarch with ¼ cup water in a small bowl until smooth. Stir into the stew along with the remaining cilantro and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the liquid thickens, about 5 minutes Serve with flour tortillas.

 

Cincinnati Chili

Serves 8

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 sweet onions, finely chopped plus more for topping

2 pounds ground beef chuck

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 15-ounce can tomato sauce

2 medium tomatoes, diced

¼ cup apple cider vinegar

¼ cup chili powder

2 tablespoons paprika

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground allspice

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 pound spaghetti, cooked

Pinto beans and grated cheddar cheese, for topping

Oyster crackers, for serving (optional)

Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add the ground beef to the pot, sprinkle with ½ teaspoon each salt and black pepper and cook, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon, until no longer pink, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and return the cooked onions to the pot; stir in the garlic.

Combine the tomato sauce, tomatoes, vinegar, chili powder, paprika, cinnamon, cumin, allspice, cloves and cayenne in a bowl; add to the pot along with 1 cup water and stir to combine. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat and cook until the chili is slightly thickened, about 1 hour, 30 minutes.

Serve the chili over the spaghetti; top with chopped onion, pinto beans and grated cheddar and serve with oyster crackers on the side.

 

 

Asian/Cajun

Two big events are coming, the Chinese New Year on February 10^th, the year of the snake, and Mardi Gras on February 12^th. Looking for food to combine both events, I found an interesting recipe in my new cookbook using shrimp in wonton wrappers and Andouille. Now that makes a good combination of flavors which I call Asian/Cajun. The food pundits are saying that Asia is the new Europe---whatever that means. We have just completed at trip to Vietnam and Cambodia (more about that next week) so I guess for us Asia is in! What we found in Saigon was a city getting very ready for the Lunar New Year, known there as Tet.  The street decorations going up reminded me of a Mardi Gras parade. When we flew back into New Orleans we were greeted with beads as we deplaned; something I had not seen before. Everyone is ready to party.

This recipe uses store bought wonton wrappers, which make the recipe easy to do. Poaching the wontons in the broth directly saves times and makes the flavor penetrate the dough. The depth of the flavor of the Andouille and soy sauce will make people think you stayed in the kitchen all day. Have a happy Chinese New Year and Mardi Gras.

Taken from the cookbook, Southern Comfort, by Allison Vines-Rushing and Slade Rushing.

Shrimp Ravioli (Wonton Wrappers) in Andouille Broth

Serves 4

Broth:

¼ cup soy sauce

12 cups water

3 pounds Andouille sausage, sliced 1/8 inch thick

Filling:

½ pound shrimp

½ teaspoon ground white pepper

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 teaspoon chopped fresh ginger

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

¼ cup loosely packed cilantro leaves, chopped

2 bunches green onions (about 14 stems), white and green parts, thinly sliced

 

1 (12-ounce) package wonton wrappers

1 pound shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and reserved for another use, caps sliced

2 carrots, peeled and julienned

To make the broth, in a large saucepan, combine the soy sauce, water, and Andouille. Bring to a boil over high heat. Once it comes to a boil, immediately decrease the heat to a slow simmer and simmer the broth for about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the filling. Chop the shrimp finely and place in a small bowl. Add the white pepper, salt, ginger, sesame oil, cilantro, and half the green onions and mix all together until well combined. Using a tablespoon measure, scoop out sixteen equal portions of filling. Roll the filling between your palms to form marble-size balls and place them on a plate. You can wet your palms with water periodically to keep the filling from sticking to your hands.

Remove the wonton wrappers from the package and place them on your work surface. Cover them with a slightly damp towel so they don’t dry out. Have a small cup of cool water nearly to use to seal the wrappers.

To assemble, place one wonton wrapper in the palm of your hand and place a ball of filling in the center. Dip one finger in the water and wet all edges of the wonton skin around the filling. Cover with a second wonton wrapper, cupping the ravioli in the palm of your hand, and pinch the edges of the ravioli closed with your thumb and index finger. Place the ravioli on another plate and continue until all the ravioli are assembled.

To cook the ravioli, return the Andouille broth to a boil and then immediately drop the ravioli into the broth, one by one. Add the mushrooms and carrots and return the broth to a simmer. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep the ravioli from sticking together.

To serve, divide the ravioli among four bowls and top with the broth, sliced Andouille, and the vegetables. Garnish the dish with the remaining greens onions.

 

 

 

 

Grillades

In Cajan country, grillades (pronounced GREE-yods) are typically thin scallops of beef round steak, simmered in a rich brown gravy and served for breakfast or lunch. In New Orleans, they are bathed in a spicier Creole sauce colored by tomatoes, and the meat is more likely to be veal, especially in fine restaurants, where they are a classic weekend brunch dish served with creamy grits.

I have seen grillades on many New Orleans menus but have never ordered them. In my new cookbook, Southern Comfort, a new take on grillades, using pork was presented and I thought this sounded really good and did the recipe. This would be a great dish for company on a cold winter day. It is a comfort dish, plus it can all be done ahead and reheated. The grits are creamy and melt in your mouth!

New-Orleans-Style Grits and Grillades

Serves 6

1 pork tenderloin (about 1 ½ pounds)

1 ½ cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons canola oil

8 slices bacon, diced

1 onion, diced

1 red pepper, diced

1 green bell pepper, diced

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1 tablespoon Creole spice

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon paprika

2 bay leaves

4 cups chicken stock

1 ripe tomato, chopped, cored, juices reserved

Creamy Grits (recipe follows)

4 green onions, white and green parts, thinly sliced (for garnish)

Cut the pork tenderloin into twelve 2-ounce cutlets. Place each cutlet between sheets of plastic wrap. Using a meat mallet, pound each medallion until it is a uniform thickness of about 1/8 inch.

In a baking dish large enough to hold the cutlets, mix 1 cup of the flour with ½ teaspoon of the salt and ½ teaspoon of the pepper until fully incorporated. Lightly dust each cutlet in the flour mixture on both sides; set aside on a plate until ready to cook.

For the cutlets, have a plate ready. For the bacon, line a plate with paper towels and have ready.

Have a 12-inch cast iron skillet over medium heat until slightly smoking. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil and sauté the cutlets in batches, four at a time. Cook them for 1 minute on each side, then transfer from the pan to the plate and repeat with the remaining oil and cutlets.

Once all the pork is cooked, keep the skillet on medium heat and add the bacon to it. Cook the bacon until the fat is fully rendered out. With a slotted spoon, remove the bacon from the pan to the paper-lined plate and reserve it on the side, leaving the fat in the pan. Decrease the heat to low and whisk in the remaining ½ cup of flour until smooth and the consistency of wet sand. Cook, whisking constantly until the roux becomes light brown and nutty, about 10 minutes. Add the diced bell peppers, onion, and garlic and cook vegetables in the roux until tender, about 3 minutes.

Carefully whisk in the remaining ½ teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper, Creole spice, cumin, paprika, and bay leaves. Once the spices are incorporated, whisk in the stock and chopped tomato with its juices until a smooth sauce is formed. Increase the heat to medium and bring the sauce to a low simmer. Decrease the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes, skimming off any excess fat. Strain the sauce (I left the vegetables in.) through a sieve and return it to the skillet. Place the pork cutlets in the sauce and warm them through. Serve the pork in the sauce over the grits and garnish with the sliced green onions.

Creamy Grits

8 cups whole milk

2 cups quick grits

1 cup unsalted butter, cut into pieces (I used ½ of this amount)

½ cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

Place the milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat until it scalds (when a skin forms on top, and it begins to bubble around the edges). Whisk the grits into the milk and decrease the heat to medium-low. Cook for 10 minutes, whisking occasionally to prevent clumps. Finish the grits by whisking in the butter, heavy cream, salt, and pepper. Cover with a lid, remove from the heat, and reserve until serving. It will stay hot for about 20 minutes, covered.