The end of the year has come and with it we need to get our
greens and black-eyes peas cooking. We all could use a little luck next year!
In looking for a green recipe I happened to hear about a lady at our church
named Madeline who has become famous with her spinach recipe that was published
in the River Roads Cookbook,
published by the Junior League of Baton Rouge in 1959. The recipe was created
at Green Springs Inn in St. Francisville, Louisiana by Madeline Neville Wright.
This dish is served as a side dish, or stuffed in a tomato as a main dish.
Madeline wanted a sophisticated name and decided to use her own!
I bought a copy of the River
Roads Cookbook the other day and after 50 years it is still being
reprinted. The late food writer, Craig Claiborne, praised this cookbook saying,
“If there were an Academy Awards for cookbooks, the Oscar for the best
performance would go hands down to River Roads Recipes.” This was long before
the James Beard awards.
Now Spinach Madeline has some gooey Velveeta cheese, but I
decided to use the Velveeta cheese with jalapeño peppers, and added some fresh
jalapeño peppers also. Originally Madeline made the recipe with a rubbery roll
of jalapeño cheese, but that is no longer made by Kraft. I am sure you could
use some better cheese, but why not just try the original just once.
Spinach Madeline
Served 5-6
2 packages frozen chopped spinach
¾ teaspoon celery salt
4 tablespoons butter
¾ teaspoons garlic salt
2 tablespoons flour
Salt to taste
2 tablespoons chopped onion
6 ounces Kraft Velveeta
½ cup evaporated milk
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh jalapeño peppers
½ cup vegetable liquor
½ teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Red pepper to taste
Cook Spinach according to directions on package. Drain and
reserve liquor. Melt butter in saucepan over low heat.
Add flour, stirring until blended and smooth, but not brown.
Add onion and cook until soft but not brown. Add liquid slowly, stirring
constantly to avoid lumps.
Cook until smooth and thick; continue stirring. Add seasonings,
peppers, and cheese which has been cut into small pieces. Stir until melted.
Combine with cooked spinach.
This may be served immediately or put into a casserole and
topped with buttered bread crumbs. The flavor is improved if the latter is done
and kept in refrigerator overnight. This may also be frozen.
This works well as a dip for that New Year’s Day party as
well. Spread it on your favorite cracker.
After your Spinach Madeline, make a wonderful black-eyed pea
and barley broth. This soup is simple and low in calories. I found this recipe
in a new cookbook called, Southern Comfort, by Allison Vines-Rushing and Slade
Rushing. They met working in New Orleans but went to New York to hone their
skills in the restaurants there. They have come back to the Bayou state to open
Longbranch in Abita Springs and then Mila in New Orleans. This new cookbook is
a collection of recipes they have created and developed along the way.
Black-Eyed Pea and Barley Broth
Makes 4 servings
8 cups water, divided
½ cup dried black-eyed peas, soaked overnight
½ cup barley
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup shiitake mushroom caps, sliced ¼-inch thick
¼ cup finely diced carrots
¼ cup diced shallot
¼ cup diced celery
6 cups Mushroom Stock, recipe follows
¼ cup soy sauce
2 teaspoons sea salt
2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper
1 cup thinly sliced green onion
In a medium saucepan, bring 4 cups water to a boil over high
heat. Add black-eyed peas, and simmer about 30 minutes or until tender,
skimming off foam that forms on the surface as needed. Strain peas, and set
aside.
In the same saucepan, bring remaining 4 cups of water to a
boil over high heat. Add barley, and simmer about 20 minutes or until tender.
Strain barley in a colander, and rinse well under cold running water. Set aside.
In a large saucepan, heat olive oil over high heat until it
smokes. Add mushrooms, and cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown and
fragrant, about 1 minute. Add carrot, shallot, and celery, and sauté for
another minute. Add Mushroom Stock, cooked peas and barley, soy sauce, salt,
and pepper, and simmer for about 10 minutes. Stir in green onion, and serve.
Mushroom Stock
Makes 8 cups
1 pound button mushrooms (can use a combination of different
mushrooms)
10 cups water
Wash mushrooms well, and place in a large saucepan. Add 10
cups water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat, and simmer
uncovered for 1 hour or until liquid is dark and flavorful. Strain mixture,
discarding solids, and let cool.
Store in an airtight container in refrigerator for up to 2
weeks or freeze up to 6 months.
Happy New Year!
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