I have had the pleasure of visiting Venice several times and
love the city. I was reading an article in the March issue of ‘Saveur’ magazine
and it just reminded me of the great food and my desire to go back one day. In
my goal of trying new foods for the year, the little bites of Venice, called
cicheti, seemed a good choice for the month.
Cicheti is a Venetian thing and like most things
Venetian—water taxis, many species of fish, high-heel wading boots the women
wear, and flood waters—these little bites are not like anything you will find
anywhere else in the world. These foods might resemble Spain’s tapas or
Greece’s mezedes in their size and variety, and they in fact stem from the same
old tradition of offering quick bites while imbibing or doing business, but
they belong to no place other than Venice. These bite size foods can be eaten
as a snack or an appetizer, or just an impromptu meal with a friend.
The word cicheti is in the Venetian dialect; some think it
stems from the French word chiquer, “to chew”; others believe its root is the
Latin ciccus, meaning “trifle.” Servings of cicheti cost no more than a few
euros, but the dishes speak of the city’s rich history as a culinary
crossroads, when trade on the Grand Canal brought spices and exotic ingredients
from all over the world.
Many of these dishes use seafood since sardines and octopus
are plentiful in the lagoons. What is so appealing is that these dishes speak
to the seasons. Artichokes are used often when in season, often fried or
marinated and stuffed with anchovies, or wrapped in pancetta.
I think this is a wonderful way to entertain friends. I have
chosen three of the dishes from the article to get going on my menu. Of
interest, Venetians love the use of squishy, white bread, leftover from the
English tradition of tea sandwiches. They use it as a canvas for all kinds of
seasonal fillings like arugula, asparagus, and more. I do like Bunny bread for
some little sandwiches!
Fried Mozzarella Sandwiches
(Mozzarella in Carozza)
Serves 4
Canola oil, for frying (I used peanut oil and it worked
fine)
6 oz. sliced mozzarella
8 slices white sandwich bread
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
½ cup flour
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup plain bread crumbs (I used panko crumbs or Japanese
bread crumbs)
Pour oil to a depth of 2” in a 6-qt. Dutch oven; heat over
medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 350⁰F. Divide mozzarella slices
among 4 slices bread; season with salt and pepper, and cover with remaining
slices to make 4 sandwiches. Trim crusts; halve sandwiches diagonally. Place
flour, eggs, and bread crumbs in three separate bowls. Dredge sandwiches in
flour, coat in eggs, and coat in bread crumbs; fry until golden brown, about 2
minutes. (I used leftover white bread which had been in the fridge for several
days and it was just perfect to hold the sandwiches together). This was a
wonderful little sandwich.
Shrimp with Pancetta and Rosemary
(Gamberi al Rosmarino)
Serves 4-6
Serve these garlicky shrimp with lots of crusty bread.
8 oz. pancetta, finely chopped
¼ cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, thinly chopped
16 medium shrimp, deveined
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
½ cup white wine
2 sprigs rosemary, stemmed
1 medium tomato, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
Crusty bread, for serving
Heat pancetta and oil in a 12” skillet over medium-high
heat; cook until crisp, 6-8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer pancetta
to a plate. Add garlic to skillet; cook
for 1 minute. Season shrimp with salt and pepper; add to skillet. Cook until
pink, about 2 minutes. Add wine, rosemary, and tomato; cook until wine is
reduced by half, 2-3 minutes. Sprinkle with pancetta.
This dish was also delicious. I like shrimp and rosemary
together.
Bacon-Wrapped Artichokes
(Fondi di Carciofi)
Serves 6-8
Canola oil, for frying
2 14-oz. jars artichoke hearts
8 slices bacon, halved crosswise
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan
1 tbsp. ground black pepper
Pour oil to a depth of 2” in a 6-qt. Dutch oven; heat over
medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 350⁰F. Place each artichoke heart
on one end of a bacon slice, sprinkle with some of the Parmesan and pepper, and
roll up; secure with a toothpick. Fry until golden brown, about 3 minutes.
Drain.
Buon Appetito!
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