Azalea Festival '15

We have spent the last week in Wilmington, North Carolina at the 68^th Azalea Festival. Our house which we have owned for 38 years was the ribbon-cutting house for the Historic Wilmington Foundation House Tour. So I spent the week cleaning, and cleaning again, and my painter/carpenter finally got the outside finished (he has been working since December) but he did a great job and the house looks so clean and fresh. This was our incentive for doing the tour! My husband got the yard in shape even working with rain every day.

Our home in Wilmington was built in 1851 by Duncan Kirkland McRae, a noted NC lawyer, politician, orator and diplomat. He served with distinction as a colonel in the War Between the States. Another family purchased the house in 1866 and remained prominent in the local community. The second generation of Willards, Martin S. Willard, made a good deal of money in the insurance business, insuring cotton shipped from NC’s largest city to the world. In 1896 he hired a NY architect to renovate and enlarge the house and the house remains much as the family left it. It is a cream colored stucco with iron grillwork flaunting itself on the corner of 6^th and Orange. One notable feature is the working gas lights in the house.

Mrs. Willard in 1925 helped establish the Cape Fear Garden Club which has been involved with the Azalea Festival since its beginning in 1948. They have been opening private gardens for touring since 1953. The Historic Wilmington Foundation is sponsoring its 24^th annual house tour. The Azalea Festival is estimated to attract 200,000 people to its many events.

Many famous people have attended the Azalea festival over the years. Notable was Ronald Reagan who participated in the 1969 Azalea Festival. I found my old 1982 cookbook, A Cook’s Tour of the Azalea Coast, and in there was a crabmeat casserole given by Nancy Reagan. I thought it was worth sharing.

Crabmeat Casserole

Serves 8

1 (20-ounce) can artichoke hearts

1 pound crabmeat

½ pound fresh mushrooms, sautéed

4 tablespoons butter

2 ½ tablespoons flour

1 cup cream

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

¼ cup medium dry sherry

Paprika to taste

Cayenne to taste

Pepper to taste

½ cup Parmesan cheese, grated

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place artichokes in bottom of a 2 ½-quart baking dish; spread a layer of crabmeat. Add a layer of sautéed mushrooms. Melt butter in a saucepan; add flour, cream, salt, Worcestershire sauce, sherry, paprika, cayenne and pepper. Stir well after each addition to for a smooth sauce. Pour sauce over artichoke-crab layer and sprinkle with cheese on top. Bake 20 minutes.

I had the pleasure of seeing Bob Hope in person at the 1981 Azalea Festival. It was great fun. I have a recipe from the same cookbook for Bob Hope’s favorite lemon pie.

Bob Hope’s Favorite Lemon Pie

1 cup sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1 cup water, boiling

4 eggs, separated

2 tablespoons butter

Rind of 1 lemon, grated

4 tablespoons lemon juice

Pinch of salt

2 tablespoons sugar

1 (9-inch) pie shell, baked

Combine in saucepan cornstarch and sugar. Add water slowly, stirring constantly, until thick and smooth. Add slightly beaten egg yolks, butter, lemon rind, juice and salt. Cook 2 or 3 minutes. Pour into baked pie shell. Cover with meringue made from 3 egg whites, beaten stiff with 2 tablespoons sugar. Bake in slow oven 15 minutes or until lightly brown.

One Azalea Queen was infamous. In 1989 the Azalea Queen was dethroned when it was discovered she had been playmate of the month, February 1986. We have none of her recipes.

 

Lamb

I did buy a small boneless lamb shoulder at Whole Foods the other day. I am like most Americans and do not eat a lot of lamb. But I have noticed recently that most good restaurants do have some lamb offerings on its menu. I have read that it is not a buzzy restaurant if there isn’t lamb on the menu. The trend is to use lamb necks which can become meltingly tender when braised in a hearty red-wine bath, then picked from the bones and used in a stew. Lamb ribs seem to be the darling on the menu. Their smaller size makes them suited to small dishes. You should ask for Denver ribs attached to the breast. They are meatier than the two-bite spareribs. Lamb breasts come from the belly, and this makes it very fatty. To get the best results cook it slow in a low oven before grilling it or crisping it up in a hot oven.

In the spring there are a lot of lamb recipes in all the magazines and I guess I get caught up in the hype and want to try a recipe or two. There were two that I thought were worth trying so my next few meals will be with lamb and beans and lamb with spring vegetables.

From the Splendid Table, American Public Media on line.

Garlic and Rosemary Studded Leg of Lamb with Cannellini Beans

Serves 8

The lamb:

1 leg or shoulder of lamb, 4-5 pounds (1 had only 2 pounds)

6 stalks rosemary

2 heads garlic, peeled with the cloves cut in half

3 heads of garlic, separated from the head and not peeled

The Beans:
2 lbs. cannellini beans, soaked overnight in water

1 large Spanish onion, cut in quarters

1 large carrot, peeled and cut in half

4 cloves garlic, peeled

1 ea. 4 ounce piece of slab bacon

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the lamb onto a large cutting board. Make small incisions into the meat in even intervals all around. Stuff the incisions with garlic and rosemary. Season with salt and pepper. Place the lamb in a large roasting pan. Arrange the unpeeled garlic cloves around the lamb. Pour 2 cups of water in the pan. Put the lamb into the oven and cook for about an hour and a half or until a meat thermometer reaches 145-165, depending on how well you want it cooked.

For the beans, strain the beans from the soaking water. Put the beans into a large pot and cover with water. Add the onions, carrot, and bacon. Bring the beans up to a boil over high heat, and then down to a low simmer, on low heat. Season with a little salt and pepper, but not all the way as the liquid will continue to reduce. Cook the beans for about an hour, or until they are tender. More water may be added during the cooking process to keep the beans covered. Once cooked, adjust the seasoning, set aside and keep warm.

Once the lamb has reached desired doneness, remove from the oven and allow to rest for 15 minutes. Once rested, move the lamb to a large cutting board. Slice the lamb into thin slices and arrange nicely on a large serving platter. Spoon the pan drippings over the sliced lamb to keep moist. Garnish the platter with the roasted cloves of garlic from the bottom of the pan. Pour the beans into a large serving bowl. Serve family style.

From the April 2015 issue of ‘bon appétit’

Ragout of Lamb and Spring Vegetables with Farro

4 sprigs oregano

4 sprigs thyme

2 sprigs rosemary

2 bay leaves

¼ cup olive oil, plus more

2 lb. lamb shoulder, cut into 1” pieces

Kosher salt, and freshly ground pepper

8 oz. pearl onions, peeled

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar

1 cup dry red wine

6 cups low-sodium chicken broth

1 cup semi-pearled farro or wheat berries, rinsed

1 ¾ lb. baby turnips, trimmed, scrubbed; halved, if large

1 bunch asparagus, trimmed, cut into 1” pieces on a diagonal

2 cups fresh (or frozen, thawed) peas

1 bunch dandelion greens, trimmed

Tie together oregano, thyme, rosemary, and bay leaves with kitchen twine.

Heat ¼ cup olive oil in a large pot over medium-high. Season lamb with salt and pepper. Working in batches, cook, turning occasionally, until browned, 12-15 minutes per batch. Transfer to a plate as you go.

Add onions to pot and stir to coat. Season with salt and pepper and cook until starting to brown, about 4 minutes. Stir in garlic, cook 30 seconds before adding vinegar. Cook, scraping up browned bits, until syrupy, about 1 minute.

Add wine, bring to a boil, and cook until reduced by about one-fourth, about 4 minutes. Add broth, lamb, and herb bundle. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer gently, partially covered, until lamb in tender, 75-85 minutes.

Stir in farro and cook until nearly al dente, 15-20 minutes. Remove herb bundle; add turnips. Cook until farro is cooked through, turnips are tender, and lamb is almost falling apart, 30-40 minutes. Mix in asparagus and peas; cook until crisp-tender, 2 minutes. Add greens and stir to wilt. Season with salt and pepper. Serve drizzled with oil.

Easter Eggs '15

Since Easter is coming this weekend I will do an article on eggs; I always do. I took an egg test given in the ‘Food Network’ April issue to see if I was an egghead! I can’t give you the test but can give you some interesting facts about eggs.

Chickens lay about 1 egg in a day. I actually would have thought more. The color of the eggshell depends on the breed of the hen and the color of the yolk depends on the diet of the hen. Young chickens can lay double-yolk eggs and these are ok to eat. A hard-boiled egg has 78 calories. So, not so bad. Hard-boiled eggs spoil faster than a raw egg because its protective coating is washed away, exposing the pores of the eggshell to bacteria. Hard-boiled eggs should be refrigerated and eaten within a week, but raw eggs can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 5 weeks. Brown eggs and white eggs have the same nutritional value. A cloudy raw egg white is a sign of freshness. You can freeze raw eggs. Raw eggs can be frozen out of their shells for up to a year. Peeling a hard-boiled egg is easier if the egg is a few weeks old. Separating an egg is easier when the egg is cold.

When you see grades (AA, A, B) this is the USDA way to specify the quality of the eggs. AA being the highest quality. When a hard-boiled egg has a grayish green ring around it, it has been overcooked. You should store your eggs in their carton on a shelf inside your refrigerator (set at 40 degrees Fahrenheit or below). The temperature of the door can fluctuate so not the best place to store the eggs.

I will not go into the labeling of eggs (I have done this before) but one really needs to try and find a good source of free range eggs. They can be expensive. Maybe you need a hen or two in your back yard!

For my Easter lunch I am doing spring vegetables with deviled egg vinaigrette. This way I get some boiled eggs in my salad and some eggs in my dressing. How is that for using those eggs?

Happy Easter everyone!

From Louisiana Cookin’ April issue.

Spring Vegetables with Deviled Egg Vinaigrette

Makes 6 to 8 servings

6 cups water

1 tablespoon salt

2 bunches jumbo asparagus, trimmed

4 large soft-boiled eggs, divided

1 (6-ounce) package sugar snap peas, halved lengthwise

½ cup fresh green peas

1 cup shaved fennel

6 radishes, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

Deviled Egg Vinaigrette, recipe follows

Garnish; fresh herbs, shaved asparagus, celery leaves

In a large bowl, prepare an ice-water bath, and set aside.

In a medium saucepan, combine 6 cups water and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add asparagus, and cook until bring green. Remove from pan, and drain. Place in a prepared ice bath; drain, and set aside. Finely chop 2 boiled eggs. Cut remaining 2 eggs in quarters.

On a large platter, arrange asparagus, snap peas, green peas, fennel, radishes, and quartered eggs. Top with diced eggs, salt, and pepper. Serve with Deviled Egg Vinaigrette. Garnish with fresh herbs, shaved asparagus, and celery leaves, if desired. Serve immediately.

Deviled Egg Vinaigrette

Makes about 1 cup

1/3 cup cane vinegar

1 tablespoon minced shallot

¼ cup mayonnaise

¼ cup Dijon mustard

2 large soft-boiled egg yolks

1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

In a medium bowl, combine vinegar and shallot, and let stand at least 15 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, mustard, and egg yolks until smooth. Add yolk mixture to shallot mixture, whisking to combine. Add chives, dill, sugar, salt, and peppers, whisking to combine. Whisking constantly, gradually add olive oil until combined. Whisk until smooth. Cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Store covered in refrigerator up to 3 days.

 

 

Crayfish

We have been to New Orleans for the past two weekends and had some very good meals. Bayona, Susan Spicer’s restaurant, has a $25.00 lunch on Saturdays, and you can pick out three things among starters, mains, and desserts. You do not have to choose a dessert but could choose three starters. I like that since I rarely eat dessert. The portions are small but wonderful. I had a salad with blue cheese, a flat iron steak with Irish stew, and two cornmeal oysters with butterbeans. Seems like a lot, but it only made you want more of everything. The exciting event of the lunch was a huge rat running around the courtyard! Now those of us eating in the courtyard were not too fazed and just kept on eating. I think there have been some rats there before according to the wait staff, one had even jumped on a nun’s hat! They are trying to get rid of them “organically.” I suspect they may need to be more aggressive.

My son was with us and kept talking about going to a crawfish boil that afternoon. Each year when crawfish season hits its stride there are crawfish boils all over the city. I am always trying new ways with these iconic, Louisiana crustaceans. Breads, pies, pastas---you name it. I recently tried a new crawfish pasta recipe which was excellent, and also tried a crawfish frittata. This would be great for breakfast or a brunch. So get some of those crawfish and cook them while they are in season.

From Louisiana Cookin’ April 2015.

Creamy Tomato Crawfish Pasta

Makes about 4 servings

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

½ cup chopped sweet onion

¼ cup chopped Fresno chili

1 teaspoon minced garlic

¼ cup sweet vermouth

1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes

½ cup Creole cream cheese or crème fraîche (I used regular cream cheese)

½ pound crawfish tail meat

1 teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

½ pound cooked capellini or angel hair pasta

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil (Time to plant this year’s supply.)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley (Time to get this started in the herb garden or pot, as well.)

In a large skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat; add onion and chili, and cook, stirring frequently, until tender, about 3 minutes. Add garlic, and cook, stirring frequently, until tender, about 30 seconds. Add vermouth, and cook until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, gently breaking tomatoes with spoon.

Bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat to medium-low. Add Creole cream cheese, whisking until smooth, and cook 5 minutes. Stir in crawfish, salt, and pepper, and simmer 4 minutes. Stir in pasta, basil, and parsley, and stir until combined. Serve immediately.

 

Crawfish Boil Frittata

Makes about 8 servings

1 large red potato, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 cup)

1 tablespoon kosher salt

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1 ½ cups fresh corn kernels (about 2 ears)

½ cup chopped sweet onion (about ½ cup)

1 pound crawfish tail meat

2 tablespoons Creole seasoning, divided

10 large eggs

½ cup whipping cream

½ cup crumbled goat cheese

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

In a saucepan, add potatoes and salt, and cover with cold water. Over medium-high heat, bring potatoes to a boil, and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat, and drain; set aside.

Preheat oven to 375°.

In a large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium-high; stir in corn and onion, and cook, stirring, until onion is translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in crawfish and 1 tablespoon Creole seasoning and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from heat.

In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, cream, and remaining 1 tablespoon Creole seasoning until combined; add potatoes, crawfish mixture, goat cheese, and parsley, stirring until combined.

In a large oven-proof skillet, melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Add egg mixture, and cook until bottom beings to set, about 5 minutes. Bake until eggs are set, about 30 minutes. Garnish with parsley, if desired, and serve immediately.

 

 

Madrid

We had to spend the night on our way back from Morocco in Madrid. No time for doing a lot but we reserved a hotel in town near the Prado. The Prado is Spain’s best known museum and by one writer the greatest collection anywhere of paintings by the European masters, and THE place to enjoy the great Spanish painter, Francisco de Goya. And the museum in free after every evening! But after spending all day going to the airport, waiting in the airport, flying, collecting bags, customs, etc. we felt like a drink and something to eat after checking in to our hotel. The clerk suggested tapas, near the Plaza Mayor, a short walk away. The Calle Cava Baja is just a short walk south of Plaza Mayor and “fills each evening with mostly young, professional Madrileños prowling for chic tapas and social fun.”  We headed out all bundled up in the chilly winter Madrid. We were early for the bar recommended by the clerk but found one nearby and sat at a window table near the bar and ordered two glasses of tinto (red wine) and settled in to think about which tapas to order and to watch the crowd. Of course, we had a bowl of aceitunas (olives) to munch on.

The Spanish eat their main meal in the afternoon and dinner quite late---for us. But tapas are eaten at all times. They come in a ración (full portion, dinner plate size), media-ración, tapa (snack-size portion) and a pincho (bite-sized portion) or a pinchito (tiny pincho). We chose one tapa to share, then another---then another glass of wine and more olives and another tapa. It was all we needed. We had a tortilla which in Spain is a potato omelet. We had to have jamón (a prosciutto-like ham that’s dry-cured and aged) served on a bocadillo (baguette sandwich). Caramelized onions were another good toping along with cheese.

I came home and found my old tapas book and did some interesting recipes which I would like to share. It is a great way to have dinner and eat less at the same time.

From the book Incredibly Easy Tapas, 2008 by Publications International, Ltd.

Herbed Tuna Salad Toasts

Makes 24 appetizers

3 tablespoons sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon coarse-grain mustard

¼ cup olive oil

2 cans (6 ounces each) solid white tuna packed in water, drained

2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and grated

3 green onions, finely chopped

3 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

1 tablespoon plus 1 ½ teaspoons chopped fresh oregano

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

2 cloves garlic, minced

Salt and black pepper

24 (1/2-inch) toasted French bread slices

Smoked paprika or paprika

For vinaigrette, whisk together vinegar and mustard. Slowly add oil, whisking constantly.

Combine tuna, eggs, green onions, capers, oregano, thyme and garlic in medium bowl; season with and pepper. Drizzle vinaigrette over tuna mixture, stirring gently to blend. Cover; refrigerate 2 hours or overnight to allow the flavors to blend.

Spoon tuna mixture onto bread slices. Sprinkle lightly with paprika.

Note: The tuna mixture can be prepared up to 1 day in advance. For the best flavor, remove the tuna mixture from the refrigerator 30 minutes before assembling the toast.

 

Chorizo and Caramelized Onion Tortilla

Makes 36 squares

¼ cup olive oil

3 medium yellow onions, quartered and sliced

½ pound Spanish chorizo sausage (about 2 links) or Andouille sausage, diced (I used Andouille)

6 eggs

Salt and black pepper

½ cup chopped fresh parsley (I used cilantro since that is what is in my garden.)

Preheat oven to 350°F. Spray 9-inch square baking pan with olive oil cooking spray.

Heat oil in medium skillet over medium heat. Add onions; cook, covered, 10 minutes or until onions are translucent. Reduce heat to low; cook, uncovered, 40 minutes or until golden and very tender. Remove onions from skillet and set aside to cool.

Add chorizo to skillet. Cook 5 minutes over medium heat, stirring occasionally, or until just beginning to brown. Remove chorizo from skillet; set aside to cool.

Whisk eggs in medium bowl; season with salt and pepper. Add onions, chorizo and parsley; stir gently until well blended. Pour egg mixture into prepared pan. Bake 12 to 15 minutes or until center is almost set. Turn oven to broil. Broil 1 to 2 minutes or until top just starts to brown. Transfer pan to wire rack; cool completely. Cut into squares or triangles; serve on wooden toothpicks cold or at room temperature.

Note: The tortilla can be made up to one day ahead and refrigerated until serving. To serve at room temperature, remove from refrigerator 30 minutes before serving.

 

 

 

Mardi Gras Brunch '15

It is carnival time again and this year I am going to New Roads, Louisiana to see two parades. Of interest to some locals in Andalusia, I will be viewing the parades from Mother Peggy Scott’s house in New Roads. Peggy is from Andalusia and her mother stills lives there (and reads my columns I hear). Peggy is an Episcopal priest and has a church in New Roads. So a fun day for all!

When I get my kitchen organized in New Orleans I am going to give a brunch on Mardi Gras day. It would be something very easy to prepare but interesting to eat. I would do King Cake scones instead of the traditional king cake. (This year I read that savory king cakes are ‘in.’) A sparkling hurricane with some fresh juices would be good. Grits and some eggs would be on the menu. A winter fruit salad with a citrus vinaigrette would finish the meal. Then some good coffee, with chicory, of course. Sounds good! I suppose I could do this outside of New Orleans but it probably would not be the same! So wherever you are on Fat Tuesday, celebrate because Lent is coming.

 

Taken from February 2015 ‘Louisiana Cookin’ Magazine’

King Cake Scones

Makes 1 dozen

2 ½ cups all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons sugar

2 ½ teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, diced

1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese, chilled and diced

½ cup sour cream

¾ cups buttermilk, divided

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ teaspoon almond extract

Buttermilk Glaze, recipe follows

Purple, yellow, and green sanding sugars

Preheat oven to 350°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper; set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Using a pastry blender, cut butter and cream cheese into flour mixture until mixture resembles coarse crumbs.

In a small bowl, whisk together sour cream, ½ cup buttermilk, and extracts. Add buttermilk mixture to flour mixture. Working gently, bring mixture together with hands until a sticky dough forms.

Turn dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead lightly 4 or 5 turns. Using a rolling pin, roll dough into a circle 1-inch thick. Cut wedges from dough and place on prepared baking sheet. Brush scones with remaining ¼ cup buttermilk.

Bake until lightly browned, about 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool completely on pan. Drizzle cones with Buttermilk Glaze, and sprinkle with desired sugars before glaze sets.

 

Buttermilk Glaze

Makes 1 cup

1 cup confectioners’ sugar

1 to 2 tablespoons buttermilk

In a small bowl, whisk confectioners’ sugar and buttermilk together until desired consistency is reached.

 

Sparkling Hurricane

Makes 8 to 10 servings

4 cups passion fruit juice

4 cups pineapple juice

1 cup fresh lemon juice

1 cup pineapple rum

1 cup rum

1 bottle chilled Champagne

Garnish: fresh lemon slices

In a large pitcher, combine passion fruit juice, pineapple juice, lemon juice and rums. Add Champagne. Serve in chilled glasses. Garnish with fresh lemon slices, if desired.

Laissez les bon temps roulez!!!!!

Morocco II

Morocco was a French protectorate in 1912 (becoming independent in 1956) with the French leaving a legacy of architecture, cuisine and language. The local language is Arabic but French is universally spoken. Being western we were always greeted with bonjour, never salaam alaikum. Street signs, if present, are in French and Arabic. A French treat we visited one day was the Majorelle Gardens. This is considered one of the glories of Marrakesh. The garden is the chef-d’oeuvre of Jacques Majorelle, painter, plant collector and scholarly enthusiast of the culture of Marrakesh and the Sahara. He was born in Nantes in 1886, the son of the celebrated Art Nouveau furniture designer Louis Majorelle. Jacques came to Marrakesh in 1917 and in 1924 purchased a plot of land outside the city walls that was to become his studio and garden. Majorelle created a personal idiom, blending elements of the local Islamic tradition with his artistic vision in which the garden is developed as a series of unfolding, living canvases. The visitor moves from a cool bamboo forest to areas of squat fan palms and agaves set among towering date palms, to a cactus garden and a lily pool. The single most influential choice Majorelle made was to adopt a striking cobalt blue which he had come across in his travels in the Berber villages of the South. This exhilarating hue has become known as Majorelle Blue. Walls and structures were painted and terracotta pots were given the same treatment, but with an extended palette of orange, citrus yellow and pale blue adding highlights. The garden remained after Majorelle’s death in 1962, and in 1980 was purchased by Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé. In 2000 they endowed the garden and it remains open to the public as one of the great gardens of the world. We spent a couple hours wandering this exotic space and resting in its small café with mint tea.

Later that day we visited what I think is the other great garden of Marrakesh---the Mamuonia. The Mamounia hotel began as an arsat, a productive orchard garden including a zone of habitation, created by Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah (r.1757-90) for one of his sons, Mamoun. The hotel was developed in 1923 to accommodate the growing number of European officials and a burgeoning tourist industry. The ‘Art Deco meets Orientalism’ design of 1922 has acquired almost mythic status. One staff member explained that ‘the garden is our history, it gave us our name and is the soul of the hotel.’ The Mamounia is not just the most notable hotel in Marrakesh but is something of a twentieth-century legend. Its guestbook has a host of notable signatures: Charlie Chaplin, Will Smith, Marlene Dietrich, Sharon Stone, Alfred Hitchcock, Martin Scorsese, General de Gaulle, Nelson Mandela. Churchill was a big fan, describing the view from his balcony as ‘paintaceous,’ with the famous gardens being, ‘the most lovely spot in the whole world.’ Staying at the Mamounia is costly but non-residents are welcome to order a drink on the terrace and enjoy the gardens----which we did. This time we had a cocktail instead of the mint tea, but with the ever present olive appetizers.

Angelica Gray wrote a nice coffee-table book entitled the Gardens of Marrakesh in 2013. The cover is of Jnane Tamsna, the arsat style garden in the Palmeraie where we stayed. Jnane Tamsna is an unusual guesthouse created by ethnobotanist Gary Martin, an American, and his Senegalese wife, Meryanne Loum-Martin. They built the place in 2000 to express their personal vision of the good life. Maryanne is a lawyer but has found her forte in design. Ethnobotany is the study of the interaction between people and plants. Gary designed the garden, janna, traditionally a space planted with date palms and fruit trees, and including grapes vines, which appears in the Koran as an explicit description of paradise. Gary acknowledges that the great traditional garden types of the region are at the heart of his design; the overall structure has been inspired by the arsat model, with its mix of tall sheltering palms towering over a middle stratum of citrus, olive, pomegranate, fig and mulberry trees, with a lower level of seasonal vegetables and overlaid with the kind of ornamental plants typical of a bustan garden, such as daturas, jasmine, pittosporum, roses, lavender, rosemary and other aromatic herbs. Indeed many bouquets around the property, in our room and in the dining room, were roses from the garden, and the vegetables we ate came from the garden. I particularly liked the freshly squeezed orange juice we enjoyed from the trees all around us. And of course, those olives.

Gary has projects all over the world which have won him international prizes and he is the director of the Global Diversity Foundation, which supports biodiversity in community projects on three continents. We met Meryanne but not Gary, and I took a cooking class in her home which is in the compound.

I had been told the class was about cooking in a tagine, but that did not happen. We basically did the class using a Moroccan couscous pot, which is a big pot with a steamer on top. Probably all of you have one. I did get some good ideas in the class, and did buy a $5.00 tagine which I used when I got home and made a wonderful dish of chicken and vegetables. The tagine was cheap but did a great job in producing wonderful chicken and vegetables. Here is my version using what I did at home and including some of the cooking class.

Couscous with Seven Vegetables

Serves 6

Chicken

1 chicken (2lbs.) could not get all the chicken in my tagine and in the class they seared it in a skillet

2 tomatoes (peeled and coarsely chopped)

1 small bunch parsley

1 small bunch of cilantro

1/3 cup olive oil

Water

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

Vegetables

½ small cabbage

1 small butternut squash or a chunk of red pumpkin (cut into pieces)

1 small eggplant

1 zucchini (ends removed and halved)

4 carrots (peeled and halved)

2 turnips (peeled and halved)

2 cups dried chick peas (soaked in water overnight) or 1 can of chick peas

 3 red chilies (optional)

Drizzle the olive oil in the bottom section of the couscous pot and add the chicken, onion, tomatoes, spices, and ¼ cup of water. Cover the pot and sear the chicken for 5 minutes on medium heat. My tagine could not hold all the ingredients and I did have to remove some of the liquid. I did put it back in the end of the cooking and used it to cover the couscous.

Add the cilantro, parsley, and harder vegetables: cabbage, carrots, turnips, and chick peas. If using canned chick peas, add them at the end since they are already cooked.

Add 2 cups water, cover the pot and cook on medium heat for 40 minutes, or until the chicken is done. At the end there should be enough sauce covering the chicken as the sauce is served on the side with the couscous. The tagine cannot hold 2 cups of water; 1 cup is enough.

Steaming the couscous:

I used couscous which only had to be added to hot water, salt and butter. You can steam it three times on the couscous pot if you want to take the time.

Once 40 minutes have elapsed, remove the chicken from the pot and reserve. Taste sauce and adjust the spice accordingly.

Add the softer vegetables to the pot: zucchini, butternut squash, and red chili pepper. Cook on medium heat for 15 minutes or until done.

Serve by setting the couscous grains first in a dome shape, pouring some sauce over the couscous, placing the chicken in the center, and the vegetables on the top of and around the dome. Pour the remaining sauce in bowls and serve with the couscous to so people can add sauce, to their taste, to their individual plates.