Pork Chops

I really like pork chops, but they are not something you think of when you think of something special for dinner. Yet they are affordable and can be dressed up to suit any occasion.

Pork chops can absorb flavors of brines, marinades, and rubs because of their mild taste. Pork can now be safely cooked to medium/medium rare. Look for an internal temperature from 135°F to 140°F for just slightly pink chops, which is the key to keeping them juicy and tender.

I like the bone-in rib chops because they look impressive, but also the bone delivers more flavor and juiciness as it insulates the meat around it during cooking keeping it moist. The important thing to help the chop reach its peak flavor is to get a good sear before finishing the recipe. To get a good sear, start with a thick chop. They can be forgiving and can be seared to a golden brown without overcooking. Make sure the chop is dry before it hits the pan. Blot the surface with a paper towel before putting in the pan. Make sure the heat is hot before putting the chop in and don’t overcrowd. Sear the sides of the chop also by lifting the chops with tongs and rotate the chop.  Keep the fatty edge in contact with the hot surface to brown it evenly.

Now you are ready to try a great recipe that can be done in one skillet and really delivers on flavor.

From ‘Fine Cooking’ October/November 2017.

Roast Pork Chops with Baby Artichokes and New Potatoes

Serves 2

1 tsp. cumin seeds

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 thick bone-in rib pork chops (about 2 lb.), trimmed and frenched if desired (Trimming the meat, fat, and sinew away from the inner and outer curve of the end of the bone. This is done for presentation. My chops weren’t cut so that I could do this.)

2 Tbs. olive oil

9 oz. fresh baby artichokes or frozen artichoke hearts, thawed

8 oz. baby new potatoes, halved (I used red potatoes that were not new.)

3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 ½ cups lower-salt chicken broth

4 sprigs fresh thyme

1 ½ Tbs. white balsamic vinegar

1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter

2 tsp. finely sliced fresh chives

Position rack in the center of the oven and heat to 400°F.

In a small skillet, toast the cumin seeds, stirring over medium-high heat until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a spice grinder and grind to a powder, then combine with ½ tsp. salt and ½ tsp. pepper. Season the pork chops all over with the spice mix.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat, and sear the chops, in batches if necessary, while spooning oil from the pan over the bone to baste, until each side is deep golden brown. Then, using a pair of tongs, lift the chops to sear the sides, about 4 minutes total. Transfer the chops to a plate. Add the artichokes and potatoes to the pan, and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned in spots, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring for 30 seconds.

Add 1 ½ cups of the chicken broth to the pan, stirring to scrape up any browned bits. Cook until the potatoes are just tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Nestle the pork chops in the pan, add the thyme, and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of a chop reads 135°F, about 6 minutes.

Leaving the thyme sprigs in the pan, transfer the chops and vegetables to a plate and tent with foil. Return the skillet to the stovetop over medium-high heat, and reduce the liquid in the pan until almost completely evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add the vinegar, stirring to scrape up any brown bits from the bottom of the pan, then add the remaining 1 cup broth, and bring to a boil. Remove the thyme sprigs, then whisk in the butter. Cook to reduce slightly, about 2 minutes, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Return the chops to the pan and spoon some sauce over the tops. Add the vegetables, sprinkle with chives, and serve.

I thought the potatoes and artichokes especially good.

 

 

Chayote

Chayote (Sechium edule) is a native of Mexico and has been naturalized throughout Central America and the Caribbean. It was raised as chocho in Jamaica during the 18^th century and exported to North American markets along the eastern seaboard. It was also grown along the coast as far north as Charleston well into the 1850’s. The Civil War disrupted cultivation and it was not until the 1890’s that serious attempts were undertaken to reintroduce it as a truck-farm product under the name vegetable pear. In the 1920’s the US Dept. of Agriculture attempted to introduce the mirliton to a broader public in a project based in Homestead, Florida, using varieties imported from Cuba.  They used the name vegetable pear but lack of consumer demand ended the federally funded project. However in Louisiana where it is known as a mirliton it has been a basic ingredient in local cookery since the 1700’s. The mirliton remained in New Orleans where eccentricity in music, culture, and even vegetables is well tolerated.

My husband first encountered mirlilton when he lived in Haiti many years ago. We can find it in the markets here near New Orleans. He is always interested in growing them, and has, off and on for several years. There is a push from a fancier in New Orleans (Lance Hill) to save and grow heirloom mirliton. You can also use store bought ones to start a vine. My husband last fall found some in the New Orleans farmer’s market. The lady didn’t know a variety but had been growing them in Plaquemines Parish for some time so he calls ours Plaquemine mirlitons. We have had trouble overwintering vines in the past and have occasionally succeeded. We let these two mirlitons sprout and during last winter potted them and planted them out after the last frost. He re-read instructions: raised bed (Water-logging the mirliton is the best way to kill it.) and 12’ diameter room for the roots to spread. Plant in full sun, mulch. One needs a lot of support. They seem to fruit best on horizontal vines so perhaps grow on an arbor like grapes. The vines can grow 40 feet. We have never seen such vines as these two of ours have produced. They fruit due to day length and usually appear late October or November. We are having them early this year.

We had chayote during our recent visit to the Yucatan, cooked and served as a side to a steak instead of potatoes. New Orleans’ recipes usually call for stuffing them with shrimp. One author noted they can be pickled as a passable substitute for artichoke hearts; they make convincing French fries and gratins and pies, or they can be eaten raw in salads. The entire plant is edible. The greens can be used in salads and stir-fries, the tubers which can grow up to 20 pounds can be cooked as yams.

When you find them buy several. Do not refrigerate but eat fairly soon as they will start to sprout. Let some sprout and plant them out next spring. When you put them in a pot this winter do not bury the whole fruit as it will rot. They produce more each year and can produce as many as 400 fruits! We have not gotten that far yet.

I found a delicious recipe for mirliton in John Folse’s Cookbook, Dig It. Mirliton is good used in soups but does well with some cheese and spices. It has a mild flavor but soaks up the flavor of spices and herbs.

This is good. Give it a try.

Gratin of Mirliton with Fine Herbs

6-8 servings

4-6 mirlitons, peeled, halved lengthwise, and seeded

1 tsp. tarragon

1 tsp. minced thyme

1 ½ cups heavy whipping cream

1 tsp. salt

½ tsp. white pepper

Pinch cayenne pepper

Pinch ground nutmeg

2 tbsp. grated Gruyére cheese

2 tbsp. Parmesan cheese

2 tbsp. bread crumbs

Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a glass ramekin or baking dish and set aside. Using a sharp kitchen knife, thinly slice mirliton halves lengthwise and set aside. In a shallow bowl, season cream with tarragon, thyme, salt, white pepper, cayenne pepper and nutmeg, stirring to mix well. Dip half of mirliton slices in seasoned cream and continue to layer in baking dish. Sprinkle Gruyére cheese in a single layer over mirlitons. Dip remaining mirliton slices in seasoned cream and continue to layer in baking dish. Evenly pour remaining seasoned cream over mirliton and cheese. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake 30-45 minutes or until squash is tender. Remove foil and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs. Increase oven heat to 425°F and bake 10-15 minutes or until top is golden brown. Remove from oven and let rest 5 minutes before serving.