Cape Malay Cooking

Ever tasted Cape-Malay cooking? When South Africans talk about traditional foods, these are some of the flavors and influences they are referring to. Masala, bobotie, Malay curry, roti, bredies---they are part of the country’s distinctive “fusion cuisine.” This fusion was blending of colonial French, Dutch, English and Malaysian influences. If you take a sniff walking through Cape Town’s Bo-Kaap area these are the spices you will smell---cardamom, coriander, cumin, cinnamon, turmeric, ginger, garlic, and chilies.

I tried two of the dishes that define Cape-Malay cooking this week and was surprised how good they are and really how easy. The first was a bredie, which is a stew made with a meat and vegetable, slow cooked in a fairly saucy gravy often referred to as lang sous (sauce that is fairly thick and plentiful). This would be a great dish for the fall. I choose a cauliflower bredie since I read it was the holy grail of bredies. The one thing perhaps that is different in Cape-Malay cooking is the use of sugar (even a little) in all the dishes.

Taken from Cooking for my Father in My Cape Malay Kitchen by Cariema Isaacs.

Cauliflower Bredie

Serves 6-8

2 Tbsp. canola oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 green chili, halved lengthwise or ¼ tsp. dried chili flakes

2 tsp. salt

1 lb. mutton on the bone (I used I lb. stew meat---grass fed, of course!)

2 tsp. sugar

2 cups water

1 large cauliflower, cleaned and cut into palm-sized portions

3-4 medium potatoes, peeled and quartered

Heat 1 Tbsp. oil over a medium/high heat. Add the onion and chili.

Cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring frequently, until the onion is lightly browned. Season with salt. Add the meat and continue to cook over a medium/high heat, all the while searing the meat and browning it evenly. Add the sugar and cook for a further 5 minutes.

As the meat and onion are just about to catch on the bottom of the pot, add 1 cup of the water to the braised meat.

Ensure that you stir the meat and gently scrape any bits from the bottom of the pot. Cook over a high heat for 5 minutes, covered and 2 minutes uncovered.

As the moisture evaporates again, stir the meat until you notice it browning again and add another ½ cup water. Cook, covered, for a further 5 minutes over high heat.

Arrange the cauliflower florets on top of the meat and add the remaining ½ cup of water.

Turn the heat down to a medium and simmer for at least 45 minutes.

Gently wedge the quartered potatoes in between the cooked ingredients and cook, covered, for a further 20 minutes over a medium heat. Should taste for seasoning and add more salt or sugar to taste.

Cook, covered, over a medium to low heat for 15-20 minutes more, allowing the potatoes to soften.

Add the remaining 1 Tbsp. of oil and remove from the heat.

Serve with hot fluffy rice and accompanied by a vegetable.

 

The next Cape-Malay classic is the bobotie. It is basically a meatloaf. Opinions are divided on who brought this recipe to the Cape of Good Hope. There are views that the original recipe was introduced by the Dutch and that spices were later added by the Indonesian cooks who worked for them. This classic is prepared in three stages which makes it different from another version of an Indonesian meatloaf dish called botok daging, which hails from the city of Jakarta. In this recipe the onions are braised, then added to the raw meat, then partially baked in the oven and then topped with a yellowy egg custard and baked until golden.

Taken from the same cookbook as above.

Bobotie

Serves 8-10

For the egg custard:

4 large eggs

1 ¼ cups full-cream milk

1 tsp. ground nutmeg

For the meat loaf base:

2 Tbsp. canola oil or vegetable oil

2 medium onions, sliced

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 tsp. turmeric

¼ tsp. curry powder

1 tsp. salt or to taste

1 Tbsp. sugar

1 lb. grass-fed ground beef

2 eggs

4 slices stale white bread, crusts removed

6-8 bay leaves (keep 3 bay leaves aside for garnishing)

Preparing the egg custard:

Place all ingredients into a bowl and whisk to form a smooth and runny batter, similar to scrambled eggs or an omelet. Set aside for later.

Preheat the oven to 350°.

Heat the oil over a medium heat, add the onion slices and fry for 5-7 minutes are slightly golden and translucent.

To this add the crushed garlic and powered spices, as well as the salt and sugar, and allow this to cook for a further 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Place the minced meat, eggs and bread in a mixing bowl, add the warm ingredients and mix to form the meatloaf mixture.

Place the mixture in an ovenproof dish and insert the bay leaves. Bake in the oven for 20-30 minutes.

Remove the partially baked meatloaf from the oven and pour the egg custard over the top.

Garnish with the remaining bay leaves and place back in the oven for a further 10 minutes until the egg custard is set and golden brown.

Can serve with sweet yellow rice and/or a vegetable.

 

 

Cape Town II

The weather in Cape Town was just perfect every day. It was the end of winter and the beginning of spring so days were sunny and around 70 degrees. We spent one day driving down the peninsula to the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point, the most southern point on the African continent. On our way there we stopped to see a penguin colony. They are in a protected preserve but the walkways allow close observation. This jackass (so called by the way they sound) penguin is more politely known as the African penguin. The breeding colony settled there in the early 1980’s much to the horror of the residents who had to deal with the penguins in their yards and now that they are protected by the National Park, they have to deal with busloads of tourists.

Signs abound warning that baboons are dangerous. We encountered one ambling down the road. I slowed but did not stop. The animal was not interested.

We had lunch at Cape Point at a restaurant called Two Oceans, a take on the merging of the Indian and Atlantic Ocean. Geographically they are said to meet somewhat more east but the Cape of Good Hope is considered to be the division by most. We were not hungry but had some oysters on the half-shell, a shrimp fried with a panko coating, and a delicious tuna dish with avocado. Our wine there was a pinotage which we found to be our favorite wine and did end up ordering some to ship home. Pinotage is a South African variety (although now grown in other countries).

Next door to the Cellars in Constantia is Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens---billed as the most beautiful garden in Africa. It is extensive and like a lot in the Cape, climbs up the back of Table Mountain. Although it was early spring and the trees were just beginning to leaf out there was still a lot in bloom. The clivia were just starting; the agapanthus not yet. The highlight of bloom was I think the bird of paradise. These strelitzias were everywhere in the garden, especially the yellow one developed by Kirstenbosch and named for Mandela. The gardens we toured were as good as those of England. The climate and the plants and the mountains make for a special show.

The next few days were spent in the winelands of Stellenbosch, where we stayed at one wine estate called Lanzerac. This was also a lovely place and had the largest bathroom so far on this trip. We were given a tour of the cellars and given a free wine tasting. Some were very good and we did decide to ship some home along with the pinotage mentioned above.

We spent our time in the winelands visiting others wineries and having lunch at some of them.  A favorite was Vergelegen, built by Willem Adriaan van der Stel who took over from his father as governor of the Cape in 1699. This is said to be Nelson Mandela’s favorite and it has also hosted Queen Elizabeth II and the Clintons. We toured the estate and the manor house. We had a lunch in the stable bistro of a delicious roast beef sandwich with and a salad of roasted cauliflower and lentils. Even with a glass of wine the meal was only around $20.00 for the two of us. What a deal!

Lunch at Vergelegen

Take some ciabatta bread and put on the roast beef, some arugula, cheese and caramelized onions for the sandwich. Cook the lentils and put in the bottom of the bowl, add roasted (or even raw) cauliflower, some cherry tomatoes sliced. Salt and pepper to taste. They had some crunchy rice noodles but I would forget that. A glass of red wine.

Another winery was Babylonstoren. Although this is a wine estate they have an extensive kitchen garden to service their restaurants. This perhaps was the most interesting lunch of all. The restaurant was called Babel and was truly a farm to table restaurant. We were offered an array of vegetables to pick from with our olive oil and beetroot hummus. This I had never seen. Our appetizer was a steamed cabbage parcel filled with spicy prawns and lightly smoked trout bobotie, served in a fresh orange blossom broth. You poured the broth over the packet and over the vegetables in the dish. It was truly inventive. My main course was risotto with cultivated mushrooms and spinach.  It had the most wonderful earthy taste and was the best risotto I have ever eaten. I told the chef that also.

Another wine estate that caught our attention was Boshendal, said to be one of the most photographed wineries. They too have a large kitchen garden. We were there early and had tea by the fire in the café instead of wine.

The Cellars did not have the raw oysters and champagne but we enjoyed them every morning at our last hotel, Lanzerac. Our last night we enjoyed dinner on the terrace at Lanzerac, starting with 12 oysters on the half shell (from Namibia according to the waiter), then a somoosa with a chutney and ending with a prawn and chicken curry. This is Cape Malay fare and I plan to explore that with my new Cape Malay cookbook.

On our way to the airport (the flight left at 11PM!) we made a visit to the Groote Shuur Hospital where Dr. Christiaan Barnard preformed the first heart transplant 49 years ago (1967). The hospital section where the surgery was done has been converted into a museum and they do a great job of telling of the surgery but also the story of the people involved, the impaired driver who killed the lady who donated the heart. The story of the donor’s family and the recipient’s family. And the story of the doctor who did the surgery. I would put this as another must do for Cape Town.

I will be using my two new cookbooks in the weeks to come to discuss Cape-Malay cooking and some other recipes from the Cellars-Hohenort Cookbook.

It was a delicious trip! Good value for your money! I would suggest you go!

 

Cape Town I

What a trip we have had this past 10 days. We flew to Cape Town, South Africa for a 9 day visit. Not so long since it takes 2 days to get there and 2 to get back. But yes it was worth it! My husband had been wanting to go to Cape Town for many years so this was the year.

There is no easy way to get to Cape Town since it is quite a distance but we flew Delta and KLM and the flights were all on time and security was not a problem and luggage was not lost so we had no complaints there. The longest flight was from Amsterdam to Cape Town (12 hours) and I did see my share of movies, about 16 round trip. None were that great but they did kill the time.

I was in Cape Town 43 years ago and remembered visiting the Cape of Good Hope and riding in a bus along Chapman’s Peak which was beautiful then as it still is now.  Things were certainly different 43 years ago. Nelson Mandela was still in prison, and on this trip we visited Robben Island and saw his cell. The 3 and a half hour trip and tour of the island with former political prisoners giving the tour is a must do, but tickets can be hard to get.

We arrived late at night in Cape Town and had a service meet us to take us to the iconic old Mt. Nelson Hotel. This was luxury with our room opening on to a terrace where we could sit and look at Table Mountain. The most amazing thing about the Mount Nelson was the breakfast buffet! I have never seen so much food, and it was included in the room rate which was really a great value for your money. We learned fast that the exchange rate was in our favor and loved having wonderful food and hotel accommodations for so little. The breakfast had oysters on the half-shell with champagne if you wished to drink that early. There was a table of breads, and meats, and cheeses. A table of only fruit, some local, which you do not see here. A table of fish including the oysters, salmon, and smoked trout. A table of yogurt and different granolas. Then after all this you could order your cooked breakfast of any type eggs or omelets and then add your mushrooms, potatoes, and bacon or sausage. I was in heaven it was all so lovely and good. We found this type breakfast at the other accommodations also, just not quite as extensive.

We spent the afternoon on Table Mountain which is The landmark in Cape Town. It is another must but can often be shrouded in clouds (the table cloth). I missed it 43 years ago but the early spring weather made this trip delightful. Table Mountain rises up from the upper reaches of the bay city thereby dominating everything. We got our tickets for the gondola on line to avoid the physical line at the base. That was an exciting ride with the gondola rotating as we go up and it is open! Not for the faint of heart. We walked around on top in the fynbos vegetation. The Cape floral kingdom is the smallest (only the tip of the western cape) of the 6 world plant kingdoms but more species dense than the others and with more plants found only there. We had a glass of wine on the terrace overlooking the city and the ocean. The western Cape is full of wineries so wine is the way to go here. I suppose that is the reason for the local bubbly for breakfast. As we talked some lady said you all must be from the South. She and her husband were from Atlanta. Most tourists were African, Asian or European.

We left Cape Town in our rental car all too soon. My husband loves to drive the stick shift on the left side of the road. He could shift ok and keep the left in mind but kept turning on the wipers when he meant to turn of the turn-signal. Our next stay was at a country house by the name of Cellars-Hohenort. Here we spent three nights and had three lovely meals. One night we got included in a wine-tasting dinner. I have never seen such fancy food. It was tasty but over the top in decoration. I don’t like chardonnay, too oaky for me usually, but we had one that was the best I have ever tasted. Unfortunately South African wines are little imported in the US.

The Cellars is a rambling country house hotel on the back side of Table Mountain in a great garden. On a stroll one morning we ran into this lovely lady dressed for tea, but in her wellies. My husband recognized her as the creator of the garden from the website Gardenista. Yes she created it she said, 26 years ago, and at 84 she is still there most days. She has 5 gardeners to help her. (Google Cellars Hohenort and Gardenista if you want a tour.)

The best thing I found at the Cellars was the soufflé served in the Conservatory Restaurant. We had it two nights in a row but I was not successful getting the recipe from the chef. I bought some books at the shop in the hotel and the shop lady heard me talking about the soufflé and said she had the recipe. And true to her word she sent it to me. She told me it was hard to do, and I could barely make out the measurements and directions but I did come home and try. Here is the recipe as I have translated it.

Cellars-Hohenort Cheese Soufflé

Serves 10

½ cup flour

6 Tbsp. butter, unsalted

6 egg yolks

½ teaspoon salt

3 ½ oz. grated parmesan

3 ½ oz. grated Underberg (A South African cheese) I used gruyere instead.

2 cups milk

6 egg whites

2 Tbsp. chopped chives

Sauce: Must go in the bottom of the ramekins

½ cup parmesan cheese

2 cups cream

Squeeze of lemon juice

This is cooked on slow and reduced to a sauce consistency and this takes about 10 minutes.

In a pot, melt the butter, add the flour and cook gently for 5-6 minutes until flour is cooked. Using a spatula, slowly add the milk into the flour-butter mixture until smooth then take off the heat and set aside. Let cook and then add the yolks, salt and chives. Whisk the egg whites and gently fold them into the mixture.

Grease 10 ramekins and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Pour the cream on top of the bread crumbs and then add the cheese soufflé mixture halfway up the ramekin since they will rise. Bake at 200°F for 1 hour. Rotate after 30 minutes. Check and see if they are firm enough to remove and if not add 10 more minutes to baking time.

I just pulled my soufflés out of the oven and they are beautiful and taste so good. I did it!

 

Juicy Chicken Breasts

It would seem that most people would grill hamburgers or steaks; actually more people grill chicken breast than any other meat. Perhaps they are cheaper and cook quickly and are somewhat healthy. (You need to buy free-range chicken if you can find it.)

The problem comes when grilling the breasts and keeping them juicy. I have always had a problem with this and finally read an article telling me how to grill juicy chicken breasts.

Marinating with buttermilk not only boosts flavor but also helps keep the chicken moist. Though it penetrates only about ¼ inch deep, that’s a good amount on a chicken breast, and enough to make that initial bite feel more juicy. The acid in the buttermilk tenderizes the chicken while adding its own tangy flavor. When there is a lot of acid present, the chicken does not need to marinate for much time to reap the benefits. If left too long, the acid can break down the meat too much, making it seem mushy.

 

I tried this recipe and the chicken was juicy and moist.

From ‘Fine Cooking’ August/September 2016.

Barbecued buttermilk-marinated chicken breasts

Slather this tender chicken with barbecue sauce before it comes off the grill for a quick take on slow-cooked barbecued chicken.

2 cups well-shaken buttermilk

½ tsp. ground cayenne pepper

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves

Olive oil, for grilling

½ cup homemade or good-quality store-bought barbecue sauce (I bought some from Vines, our local gas station, restaurant, grocery, deer processing place. It has quite a following for miles around here.)

 

In a small bowl, whisk the buttermilk, cayenne, ½ tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper until combined.

Put the chicken in a bowl, or large zip-top bag. Cover with the marinade, turning the chicken to coat if necessary, and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire.

Shake the excess marinade off the chicken and pat dry. Lightly coat the chicken all over with oil and season lightly with salt.

Grill the chicken without moving it until grill marks form, 3 to 4 minutes. Brush until just cooked through (160°F), another 2 to 4 minutes. Let rest for a few minutes before serving.

Another way to have to have moist chicken is to brine quickly. Brining is a foolproof method for preventing chicken from drying out. Brining means soaking in a salt and water solution, but sugar is usually added to balance the salt flavor and promote browning. As salt enters the meat cells, it alters the structure of the muscle fibers and proteins swelling their water-holding capacity.

Brining can take hours for a larger piece of chicken, but chicken breast needs just 20 minutes, and if left longer becomes too salty. This sweet-tea brine recipe gives a pure chicken flavor and an added sweetness from the lemonade.

 

Sweet-Tea Brined Chicken Breasts

Serves 6

5 oz. kosher salt (about 1 cup if using Diamond Crystal; about ½ cup plus 2 Tbs. if using Morton)

½ cup granulated sugar

1 cinnamon stick

2 cups strong freshly brewed black tea, cooled

1 12-oz. can frozen lemonade concentrate

2 cups ice cubes

1 lemon, sliced

6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves

Olive oil, for grilling

Freshly ground black pepper

 

In a large saucepan, bring 2 cups water, salt, sugar, and cinnamon stick to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. Let cool to warm. Stir in the tea, lemonade concentrate, ice cubes, and lemon slices. Let the brine cool.

Put the chicken in a bowl or large zip-lock top bag. Add the brine, and let the chicken soak for 15 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire.

Remove the chicken from the brine, pat dry with paper towels, lightly coat with oil, and sprinkle a little black pepper. Grill the chicken without moving it until grill marks form, 4 to 6 minutes. Flip and grill just cooked through (160°F), 4 to 6 minutes more. Let rest for a few minutes before serving.

So for this Labor Day weekend grill up some juicy chicken breasts!

It would seem that most people would grill hamburgers or steaks; actually more people grill chicken breast than any other meat. Perhaps they are cheaper and cook quickly and are somewhat healthy. (You need to buy free-range chicken if you can find it.)

The problem comes when grilling the breasts and keeping them juicy. I have always had a problem with this and finally read an article telling me how to grill juicy chicken breasts.

Marinating with buttermilk not only boosts flavor but also helps keep the chicken moist. Though it penetrates only about ¼ inch deep, that’s a good amount on a chicken breast, and enough to make that initial bite feel more juicy. The acid in the buttermilk tenderizes the chicken while adding its own tangy flavor. When there is a lot of acid present, the chicken does not need to marinate for much time to reap the benefits. If left too long, the acid can break down the meat too much, making it seem mushy.

 

I tried this recipe and the chicken was juicy and moist.

From ‘Fine Cooking’ August/September 2016.

Barbecued buttermilk-marinated chicken breasts

Slather this tender chicken with barbecue sauce before it comes off the grill for a quick take on slow-cooked barbecued chicken.

2 cups well-shaken buttermilk

½ tsp. ground cayenne pepper

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves

Olive oil, for grilling

½ cup homemade or good-quality store-bought barbecue sauce (I bought some from Vines, our local gas station, restaurant, grocery, deer processing place. It has quite a following for miles around here.)

 

In a small bowl, whisk the buttermilk, cayenne, ½ tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper until combined.

Put the chicken in a bowl, or large zip-top bag. Cover with the marinade, turning the chicken to coat if necessary, and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire.

Shake the excess marinade off the chicken and pat dry. Lightly coat the chicken all over with oil and season lightly with salt.

Grill the chicken without moving it until grill marks form, 3 to 4 minutes. Brush until just cooked through (160°F), another 2 to 4 minutes. Let rest for a few minutes before serving.

Another way to have to have moist chicken is to brine quickly. Brining is a foolproof method for preventing chicken from drying out. Brining means soaking in a salt and water solution, but sugar is usually added to balance the salt flavor and promote browning. As salt enters the meat cells, it alters the structure of the muscle fibers and proteins swelling their water-holding capacity.

Brining can take hours for a larger piece of chicken, but chicken breast needs just 20 minutes, and if left longer becomes too salty. This sweet-tea brine recipe gives a pure chicken flavor and an added sweetness from the lemonade.

 

Sweet-Tea Brined Chicken Breasts

Serves 6

5 oz. kosher salt (about 1 cup if using Diamond Crystal; about ½ cup plus 2 Tbs. if using Morton)

½ cup granulated sugar

1 cinnamon stick

2 cups strong freshly brewed black tea, cooled

1 12-oz. can frozen lemonade concentrate

2 cups ice cubes

1 lemon, sliced

6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves

Olive oil, for grilling

Freshly ground black pepper

 

In a large saucepan, bring 2 cups water, salt, sugar, and cinnamon stick to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. Let cool to warm. Stir in the tea, lemonade concentrate, ice cubes, and lemon slices. Let the brine cool.

Put the chicken in a bowl or large zip-lock top bag. Add the brine, and let the chicken soak for 15 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire.

Remove the chicken from the brine, pat dry with paper towels, lightly coat with oil, and sprinkle a little black pepper. Grill the chicken without moving it until grill marks form, 4 to 6 minutes. Flip and grill just cooked through (160°F), 4 to 6 minutes more. Let rest for a few minutes before serving.

So for this Labor Day weekend grill up some juicy chicken breasts!

It would seem that most people would grill hamburgers or steaks; actually more people grill chicken breast than any other meat. Perhaps they are cheaper and cook quickly and are somewhat healthy. (You need to buy free-range chicken if you can find it.)

The problem comes when grilling the breasts and keeping them juicy. I have always had a problem with this and finally read an article telling me how to grill juicy chicken breasts.

Marinating with buttermilk not only boosts flavor but also helps keep the chicken moist. Though it penetrates only about ¼ inch deep, that’s a good amount on a chicken breast, and enough to make that initial bite feel more juicy. The acid in the buttermilk tenderizes the chicken while adding its own tangy flavor. When there is a lot of acid present, the chicken does not need to marinate for much time to reap the benefits. If left too long, the acid can break down the meat too much, making it seem mushy.

 

I tried this recipe and the chicken was juicy and moist.

From ‘Fine Cooking’ August/September 2016.

Barbecued buttermilk-marinated chicken breasts

Slather this tender chicken with barbecue sauce before it comes off the grill for a quick take on slow-cooked barbecued chicken.

2 cups well-shaken buttermilk

½ tsp. ground cayenne pepper

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves

Olive oil, for grilling

½ cup homemade or good-quality store-bought barbecue sauce (I bought some from Vines, our local gas station, restaurant, grocery, deer processing place. It has quite a following for miles around here.)

 

In a small bowl, whisk the buttermilk, cayenne, ½ tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper until combined.

Put the chicken in a bowl, or large zip-top bag. Cover with the marinade, turning the chicken to coat if necessary, and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire.

Shake the excess marinade off the chicken and pat dry. Lightly coat the chicken all over with oil and season lightly with salt.

Grill the chicken without moving it until grill marks form, 3 to 4 minutes. Brush until just cooked through (160°F), another 2 to 4 minutes. Let rest for a few minutes before serving.

Another way to have to have moist chicken is to brine quickly. Brining is a foolproof method for preventing chicken from drying out. Brining means soaking in a salt and water solution, but sugar is usually added to balance the salt flavor and promote browning. As salt enters the meat cells, it alters the structure of the muscle fibers and proteins swelling their water-holding capacity.

Brining can take hours for a larger piece of chicken, but chicken breast needs just 20 minutes, and if left longer becomes too salty. This sweet-tea brine recipe gives a pure chicken flavor and an added sweetness from the lemonade.

 

Sweet-Tea Brined Chicken Breasts

Serves 6

5 oz. kosher salt (about 1 cup if using Diamond Crystal; about ½ cup plus 2 Tbs. if using Morton)

½ cup granulated sugar

1 cinnamon stick

2 cups strong freshly brewed black tea, cooled

1 12-oz. can frozen lemonade concentrate

2 cups ice cubes

1 lemon, sliced

6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves

Olive oil, for grilling

Freshly ground black pepper

 

In a large saucepan, bring 2 cups water, salt, sugar, and cinnamon stick to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. Let cool to warm. Stir in the tea, lemonade concentrate, ice cubes, and lemon slices. Let the brine cool.

Put the chicken in a bowl or large zip-lock top bag. Add the brine, and let the chicken soak for 15 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire.

Remove the chicken from the brine, pat dry with paper towels, lightly coat with oil, and sprinkle a little black pepper. Grill the chicken without moving it until grill marks form, 4 to 6 minutes. Flip and grill just cooked through (160°F), 4 to 6 minutes more. Let rest for a few minutes before serving.

So for this Labor Day weekend grill up some juicy chicken breasts!

It would seem that most people would grill hamburgers or steaks; actually more people grill chicken breast than any other meat. Perhaps they are cheaper and cook quickly and are somewhat healthy. (You need to buy free-range chicken if you can find it.)

The problem comes when grilling the breasts and keeping them juicy. I have always had a problem with this and finally read an article telling me how to grill juicy chicken breasts.

Marinating with buttermilk not only boosts flavor but also helps keep the chicken moist. Though it penetrates only about ¼ inch deep, that’s a good amount on a chicken breast, and enough to make that initial bite feel more juicy. The acid in the buttermilk tenderizes the chicken while adding its own tangy flavor. When there is a lot of acid present, the chicken does not need to marinate for much time to reap the benefits. If left too long, the acid can break down the meat too much, making it seem mushy.

 

I tried this recipe and the chicken was juicy and moist.

From ‘Fine Cooking’ August/September 2016.

Barbecued buttermilk-marinated chicken breasts

Slather this tender chicken with barbecue sauce before it comes off the grill for a quick take on slow-cooked barbecued chicken.

2 cups well-shaken buttermilk

½ tsp. ground cayenne pepper

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves

Olive oil, for grilling

½ cup homemade or good-quality store-bought barbecue sauce (I bought some from Vines, our local gas station, restaurant, grocery, deer processing place. It has quite a following for miles around here.)

 

In a small bowl, whisk the buttermilk, cayenne, ½ tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper until combined.

Put the chicken in a bowl, or large zip-top bag. Cover with the marinade, turning the chicken to coat if necessary, and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire.

Shake the excess marinade off the chicken and pat dry. Lightly coat the chicken all over with oil and season lightly with salt.

Grill the chicken without moving it until grill marks form, 3 to 4 minutes. Brush until just cooked through (160°F), another 2 to 4 minutes. Let rest for a few minutes before serving.

Another way to have to have moist chicken is to brine quickly. Brining is a foolproof method for preventing chicken from drying out. Brining means soaking in a salt and water solution, but sugar is usually added to balance the salt flavor and promote browning. As salt enters the meat cells, it alters the structure of the muscle fibers and proteins swelling their water-holding capacity.

Brining can take hours for a larger piece of chicken, but chicken breast needs just 20 minutes, and if left longer becomes too salty. This sweet-tea brine recipe gives a pure chicken flavor and an added sweetness from the lemonade.

 

Sweet-Tea Brined Chicken Breasts

Serves 6

5 oz. kosher salt (about 1 cup if using Diamond Crystal; about ½ cup plus 2 Tbs. if using Morton)

½ cup granulated sugar

1 cinnamon stick

2 cups strong freshly brewed black tea, cooled

1 12-oz. can frozen lemonade concentrate

2 cups ice cubes

1 lemon, sliced

6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves

Olive oil, for grilling

Freshly ground black pepper

 

In a large saucepan, bring 2 cups water, salt, sugar, and cinnamon stick to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. Let cool to warm. Stir in the tea, lemonade concentrate, ice cubes, and lemon slices. Let the brine cool.

Put the chicken in a bowl or large zip-lock top bag. Add the brine, and let the chicken soak for 15 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire.

Remove the chicken from the brine, pat dry with paper towels, lightly coat with oil, and sprinkle a little black pepper. Grill the chicken without moving it until grill marks form, 4 to 6 minutes. Flip and grill just cooked through (160°F), 4 to 6 minutes more. Let rest for a few minutes before serving.

So for this Labor Day weekend grill up some juicy chicken breasts!

New Orleans II-the Old

Our visit to New Orleans saw us eating at the two oldest restaurants in New Orleans. 175 years is a long time to be around but Antoine’s has that claim to fame. Antione’s has certainly undergone some changes in those years .I remember 40 years ago when we were dining at Antoine’s we received our menu in the mail and it was in French. We had time to decide what each item was and decide ahead of time. I arrived in a long gown and place cards were on the table with our names on them. They only took cash! When we were there last Friday, anything in shorts could come in and of course all credit cards are acceptable.

We love the ‘Coolinary’ lunches in New Orleans only served in August. They are rather cheap and usually good. They help get people into the restaurants when everything is so slow. Antoine’s had a $20.16 menu with 3 courses and it was all delicious. You are offered a 25 cent cocktail (basically a punch with a little gin) so I had two; limit is three. But it was only 50 cents, so not much to spend! My husband insists on his sazarac. Our courses started with three charbroiled oysters and then the entrée, andouille oysters Bonne Femme (oysters, crabmeat and andouille sausage in a rich wine sauce served in a flakey phyllo shell), and pecan bread pudding. What is not to love about this for $20.16? The waiters were on the ball and we found Antione’s to still be a great place to eat after all these years.

Now on to the second oldest restaurant in New Orleans which is Tujague’s. It has been on Decatur Street in New Orleans for 160 years, and is now under new management and a new chef. The noise level was very high but it was Friday night and it was busy. The food was very good with old classics and some new things. I had a wedge salad with fried oysters which had a nice dressing with some onions and tomatoes added. The best was an entrée of two fried smoked soft-shell crabs. I had never had soft-shell crabs that really smelled and tasted of being smoked. It was delicious.  The waiter said they smoked the crabs for a short amount of time and then fried them. I would recommend this dish if you are dining at Tujague’s.

Our meeting with the Historic New Orleans Collection ended with a delightful jazz brunch at Arnaud’s. It has only been around since 1916 so somewhat younger but still 100 years old. I love going to Arnaud’s and even though it was a group of about 100 people, the service was beautifully done and the food superb. (I was told they have room to seat 2000 diners in their various dinning rooms!) They started with mimosas or blinis; the appetizer was their pommes soufflé. Then came the first course of shrimp with cocktail sauce, followed by a gulf fish amandine served with haricots verts and potatoes. Desert was fresh strawberries with a strawberry sauce over vanilla ice cream. Finished with black coffee. The jazz band played throughout.

I could do all kinds of recipes from these restaurants but I think my favorite recipe would be the Gulf Fish Amandine. You cannot beat the combination of (in this recipe trout) and sliced almonds. It is always a New Orleans favorite directly descended from the French.

From Arnaud’s Restaurant Cookbook

Trout Amandine

Serves 6

1 cup (8 ounces, 2 sticks) unsalted butter

1 cup blanched, sliced almonds

Juice of 1 lemon

1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Vegetable oil, for frying

6 skinless speckled trout fillets, about 6 ounces each

1 ½ cups all-purpose flour

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Finely chopped flat-leafed parsley, for garnish

Thin slices of lemon, for garnish

Heat the oven to its lowest setting and place a baking sheet lined with a doubled layer of paper towels inside. Place six dinner plates in the oven to warm.

In a small skillet, melt about ½ cup of the butter over low heat. Add the almonds and stir gently until they are uniformly golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the almonds from the pan with a slotted spoon, place in a bowl and set aside.

Add the remaining butter to the same skillet. When it is melted, stir in the lemon juice and parsley. Add salt and pepper to taste and taste seasoning. Set aside while you fry the fish.

Place the flour in a large, shallow bowl near the stove and season generously with salt and pepper. In an electric deep fryer or a deep, heavy saucepan or stock pot, more than half filled with oil, heat the oil to 350°. Dredge two of the fillets in the seasoned flour, coating both sides. Shake off any excess flour and gently lower the fillets into the hot oil. When the first two fillets are golden brown, remove with a skimmer basket and transfer to the towel-lined baking sheet to drain and keep warm while you fry the remaining fillets in the same way. (Do not dredge the fillets until just before frying, or the coating will be gummy.)

Return the lemon-butter sauce to high heat and stir for a minute or two, until piping hot.

Place each fillet on a hot place and scatter generously with the almonds. Drizzle with some of the lemon-butter sauce and serve at once.

I hope these articles make you want to get in the car and drive to New Orleans in the hot days of August. Getting a reservation is easier and things are cheaper in August, but you do have to deal with the heat. But hey, all restaurants are air-conditioned so it is no big deal to have a COOL time!!!