New Orleans New

We went to New Orleans recently for the Historic New Orleans Antiques Forum. But we started our journey with lunch at the new---Shaya. It’s Israeli and we love it! Alan Shaya was lured to New Orleans in 2003 and trained under another of our favorite chefs in New Orleans, John Besh. Shaya, who previously did Domenica’s at the Roosevelt, won a James Beard award with his Shaya, Best Chef in the South 2015. We have previously talked about his restaurant and since he won the Best Chef award reservations can be difficult to get. Therefore lunch.

We have not had a bad item there yet. I decided his wood roasted okra with oven-roasted tomatoes, tahini, and duqqa was the best item this day. I am eating grilled or roasted okra more and more. I think, except for using it in gumbo, that is the best way to do it.

 

So try this stepped up version of grilled okra.

Trim your okra and spike with two soaked wood spears to grill. Baste with olive oil. Or put them on a cookie sheet and roast in the oven---with some slices of cherry tomatoes. Plate. Add a spoonful of tahini and sprinkle with duqqa.

Duqqa, Dukkah, or du’ah, do’a (Arabic meaning to pound) is an Egyptian roasted nut and spice mixture that is usually eaten with your bread (pita) dipped in olive oil and then in the Duqqa.

Duqqa

1 cup almonds

½ cup sesame seeds

1/3 cup coriander seed

2 tablespoons cumin seeds

2 tablespoons fresh ground black pepper

1 teaspoon sea salt

Dried herbs: marjoram, mint, thyme—optional

Chili pepper flakes

Preheat the oven to 350° and bake almonds about 5 minutes. In a dry skillet over medium heat toast sesame then put these in a bowl. In the same skillet toast the coriander and cumin, stirring until they begin to pop. Transfer to a food processor and finely grind. Add to the sesame. In a food processor finely grind the cooled almonds. Stir with spices and season with salt and pepper. Other seeds and nuts may be used as well.

 

In August many New Orleans museums are open for free if you are a member of one of the participating museums. So we started the afternoon at the Ogden Museum of Southern Art and then we went to Longue Vue. The gardens are nice and well-kept but we could barely tolerate walking around. We spent about 15 minutes and retreated inside under air to await the house tour. The guide was a veteran of 22 years and gave a great tour of this 20^th century home belonging to a wealthy New Orleans family. Mr. Stern made his money as a cotton broker and his wife was Edith Rosenwald was heiress to the Sears Co.  The home was luxurious but Mrs. Stern had a sense of humor. She had sent the maid to buy some bird figurines from Woolworth’s and she used them at some of her formal dinners. She would leave the table and wait for someone to pick one up to see if they were Spode or similar. They would find the 25 cent Woolworth label!

 

The next 3 days were spent at the Antiques Forum and we sampled some of the old favorite restaurants but we did two more new ones. New as in 26 years. We have been eating at Bayona off and on for most of that time. Susan Spicer still delivers. We had their ‘Coolinary’ menu which many restaurants do in the slow month of August. They have 26 cent martinis or manhattans but I always go for my New Orleans cocktail—the sazarac. However they do their’s with cognac instead of rye whiskey. It is a richer taste.

My appetizer was one to repeat--- roasted eggplant with sliced cherry tomatoes, cucumbers with dill and crèam fraîche. Here we are again with grilled or roasted vegetables.

For our dinner one night we ate at restaurant Lüke, which is one of John Besh’s earlier restaurants, his take on a French-German brassiere which he opened in 2007 .We wanted to go because we remembered the restaurant having oysters on the half-shell but this time it did not. Maybe because it is August. We did have stuffed squash blossoms and my husband and I shared a hamburger. They are really good there but so big that one cannot eat all of one. They are served with lots of cheese and Benton’s bacon. YUM!! And they served us individual servings of fries---wrapped in a paper cone inside a silver tumbler.

These are three of the restaurants we visited but next week we will visit three old ones. There are so many places to eat that I have only touched the surface!

Squash

I am into squash this week, but trying recipes that are quick and do not require much time in the oven.

When too many squash feel like a task that is when you turn to recipes that include crunchy raw salads, grilled sandwiches, and tacos. You can use any summer squash for most of these recipes, and with these many options, you may even be sad to see squash season end.

From ‘Fine Cooking Magazine’ August/September 2016.

 

This is a great recipe because a quick broil ensures that the squash retains its firm texture under a blanket of rich cheese sauce and crisp golden breadcrumbs.

Creamy Scalloped Squash

Serves 4-6

1 lb. thinly sliced summer squash

2-oz. jar of chopped pimientos

1 tsp. kosher salt

¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

2/3 cup heavy cream

½ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1 ½ tbsp. all-purpose flour

1/3 cup panko

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler, and heat the broiler on high. Butter a shallow 9x13-inch baking dish. In the dish, toss the thinly sliced squash with the pimientos, salt, and pepper. Broil until just starting to wilt, about 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the heavy cream, cheese and the flour. Pour evenly over the squash. Top with the panko. Broil until bubbly and deep golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes.

 

Refreshing and light, this is a perfect first course for a summer dinner. Make it up to a few hours in advance, keeping it covered and chilled and adding the salt, pepper,, cheese, and capers just before serving.

Shaved Squash Carpaccio with Capers, Thyme, and Ricotta Salata

Serves 4

3 medium yellow summer squash, zucchini or a mixture

1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp. fresh thyme

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 oz. ricotta salata or Manchego

1 Tbs. brined cappers

Using a vegetable peeler, shave off long strips of the squash rotating the squash in your hand as you work around the seed-filled center. (Stop when it becomes difficult to shave, and discard the seedy centers.) Arrange the strips on a large platter, overlapping them slightly.

Drizzle with the fresh lemon juice and fresh thyme, the olive oil, salt and pepper.

Shave the cheese over the squash and top with the drained chopped capers. Delicious

 

These tacos are so creamy with avocado, corn and adobe cheese you will not miss the meat.

Mixed Squash Tacos

Serves 4

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 lb. cubed mixed summer squash

1 cup fresh corn kernels

1 Tbs. adobe sauce

1tsp. kosher salt

1 avocado

8 6-inch flour tortillas

1 cup coarsely grated Oaxaca or Monterey Jack cheese

½ cup sour cream

Lime wedges

Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over high heat and add the squash, and cook, stirring once, until just golden brown and tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the corn, the adobe sauce, salt, and cook until the corn is tender, 2 to 3 minutes.

Mash an avocado and spread it over the flour tortillas. Top with the squash mixture, the cheese, and sour cream. Use lime wedges for squeezing over all.

I am into squash this week, but trying recipes that are quick and do not require much time in the oven.

When too many squash feel like a task that is when you turn to recipes that include crunchy raw salads, grilled sandwiches, and tacos. You can use any summer squash for most of these recipes, and with these many options, you may even be sad to see squash season end.

From ‘Fine Cooking Magazine’ August/September 2016.

 

This is a great recipe because a quick broil ensures that the squash retains its firm texture under a blanket of rich cheese sauce and crisp golden breadcrumbs.

Creamy Scalloped Squash

Serves 4-6

1 lb. thinly sliced summer squash

2-oz. jar of chopped pimientos

1 tsp. kosher salt

¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

2/3 cup heavy cream

½ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1 ½ tbsp. all-purpose flour

1/3 cup panko

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler, and heat the broiler on high. Butter a shallow 9x13-inch baking dish. In the dish, toss the thinly sliced squash with the pimientos, salt, and pepper. Broil until just starting to wilt, about 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the heavy cream, cheese and the flour. Pour evenly over the squash. Top with the panko. Broil until bubbly and deep golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes.

 

Refreshing and light, this is a perfect first course for a summer dinner. Make it up to a few hours in advance, keeping it covered and chilled and adding the salt, pepper,, cheese, and capers just before serving.

Shaved Squash Carpaccio with Capers, Thyme, and Ricotta Salata

Serves 4

3 medium yellow summer squash, zucchini or a mixture

1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp. fresh thyme

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 oz. ricotta salata or Manchego

1 Tbs. brined cappers

Using a vegetable peeler, shave off long strips of the squash rotating the squash in your hand as you work around the seed-filled center. (Stop when it becomes difficult to shave, and discard the seedy centers.) Arrange the strips on a large platter, overlapping them slightly.

Drizzle with the fresh lemon juice and fresh thyme, the olive oil, salt and pepper.

Shave the cheese over the squash and top with the drained chopped capers. Delicious

 

These tacos are so creamy with avocado, corn and adobe cheese you will not miss the meat.

Mixed Squash Tacos

Serves 4

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 lb. cubed mixed summer squash

1 cup fresh corn kernels

1 Tbs. adobe sauce

1tsp. kosher salt

1 avocado

8 6-inch flour tortillas

1 cup coarsely grated Oaxaca or Monterey Jack cheese

½ cup sour cream

Lime wedges

Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over high heat and add the squash, and cook, stirring once, until just golden brown and tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the corn, the adobe sauce, salt, and cook until the corn is tender, 2 to 3 minutes.

Mash an avocado and spread it over the flour tortillas. Top with the squash mixture, the cheese, and sour cream. Use lime wedges for squeezing over all.

Tucson

We made a trip to Tucson last week to prepare for our daughter’s wedding in March 2017 at the Arizona Inn. Yes, the 34 year old doctor is getting married and we are very happy about this. The Arizona Inn is just about my favorite place to stay but who knew we would be having a wedding there.  We helped find a priest to marry her and selected the venue for the reception and yes we put our money down. I’ve only one daughter to marry so I guess I can just prepare myself for spending a lot of money.

On our way out to Tucson we stopped in Houston (where our daughter is now living and where she met her future husband) and took them to dinner at Oxheart. The chef at Oxheart had just won the best chef southwest in the James Beard awards, so we thought we would give it a try. I will say the chef had some interesting food but the price was just way too much. You have only two choices of menu (with 6 courses) a vegan and non-vegan and the cost is $75.00 per person either way. The courses were very small which was ok but the last course was the dessert and I am not exaggerating; it consisted of one half of a strawberry and a small dollop of cream! Now it was a tasty bite, but I wanted to go and have a What-a-Burger!! You can skip this restaurant even though it is one of the top restaurants in Houston.

Something different we did this year was to take a tour of the LBJ Texas White House in Johnson City, Texas. Johnson spent a lot of his time at this ranch and we got a grand tour for only $3.00 since it was given to the National Park Service and prices are low and the 7 mile tour around the ranch is free. A good value for your money and we learned things about LBJ and Lady Bird we did not know.

We always stop at La Gloria in San Antonio and we had a wonderful inexpensive Mexican meal. Their tacos with steak and bacon were some of the best I have had. We also made our yearly stop at Ándele in Las Cruces, New Mexico for their wonderful posole. It was as good as ever.

 

Arriving at the Arizona Inn is kinda like coming home after being there so many times. My husband enjoyed the pool this year for the first time. He thought it would be good to swim as much as possible to help him with his broken pelvis from January. Also it was 107 degrees every day so a pool helped in the middle of the day. I went to the pool but I enjoyed eating there instead of swimming. I ordered vichyssoise every chance I had because that is one of my favorite things the Inn offers. What can be better than a cold soup on a hot day so when I came back to the humidity of Mississippi I got out my cookbook and found Julia Child’s best vichyssoise recipe.

Besides vichyssoise you just have to try the tamales at Tucson Tamale Company. I have talked about these tamales before but they are just the best filled with squash, green corn, blue corn, cheese, and you can get breakfast and dessert tamales. Their side order of cold rice was just perfect with the tamales. You can order these to be shipped also.

So take a trip out west in the heat of the summer. Remember it is a dry heat—I didn’t sweat at all!!

Taken from The Way to Cook by Julia Child.

Chilled Leek and Potato Soup: Vichyssoise

Serves 6-8

Leeks and potatoes simmered in lightly salted water make a perfect soup in themselves even without the addition of cream, but the flavor is enhanced with the addition of cream. Onions can be substituted instead of leeks but you will not get the special flavor that is the trademark of the leek.

4 cups sliced leeks---the white parts only

4 cups diced potatoes---old or baking potatoes recommended

6 - 7 cups water

1 ½ to 2 tsp. salt, or to taste

½ cup or more sour cream, heavy cream, or crème fraîche, optional (chilled)

1 Tbs. minced fresh chives or parsley

Simmering the soup:

Bring the leeks, potatoes, and water to the boil in the saucepan. Salt lightly, cover partially and simmer 20-30 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Taste and correct seasoning.

Purée the soup through a vegetable mill, or in a blender or food processor.

After chilling the soup, you may wish to stir in a little more cream. Taste carefully, and correct seasoning. Top each serving with ½ teaspoon of chives or parsley.

 

Long Beans

My long beans are in abundance right now so I am always looking for ways to cook them before I freeze the extra. I much prefer my beans fresh. Some things taste just as well frozen but not green beans.

Long beans are edible at all stages of growth. Tender green leaves are an important food source in Africa and are prepared like spinach. Immature pods are used in the same way as snap beans. Peas (seeds) can be boiled as a fresh vegetable, or may be canned or frozen. Dry mature peas are suitable for boiling and canning and can be used in soups or salads.

Long beans are of a different genus than our usual green beans and are vigorous climbing annual vines. They are a member of the cowpea family and grow to about 18-inches long. Colors range from dark green to silver, burgundy and mosaic, which have pods that are speckled purple, red and green.

Long beans are an excellent source of iron, fiber, and vitamin B-1. Long beans are also called yard long beans, asparagus beans, bora, bodi, snake beans and Chinese long beans. China has many names for long beans including cheung kong tau. In India they are called lobia; kacang  panjang in Indonesia; juroku sasage in Japan. As you see they are gown all over the world and can be grown year round in many places.

Long beans are crisp, tender and delicious .You can substitute them in recipes that use snap beans or string beans.I think they work best in Asian dishes. Prepare by cutting into 2-inch sections and deep-fry, stir-fry, steam or use in soups and salads. Another popular option is to chop them into very short sections and fry them in an omelet.

I like to use long beans in stir-fries with soy sauce, garlic, and hot peppers Long beans go well with any chopped meat like pork or chicken. My favorite recipe (given below) is long beans with pork and olives including the ginger, garlic, soy sauce, and balsamic vinegar.

Grow some long beans and keep in mind that they are good for you. One cups contains 200 calories, 13 grams of protein, 11 grams of fiber and 24 percent of the daily value for iron.

Add rice to this dish and it makes a complete meal.

 

Wok-Charred Long Beans with Black Olives

Trim and cut 1 ½ lbs. long beans into 2 inch pieces. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add beans; cook until crisp-tender, 1-2 minutes. Using tongs, transfer beans to a bowl of ice water, chill. Drain beans.

 Heat 3 tbsp. canola oil in a 12 inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat Add 4 oz. ground pork. Cook pork until browned, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer pork to a plate, leaving fat in skillet. Raise heat to high; add beans and cook, without stirring, until hot, about 2 .minutes. Toss beans; cook, without stirring until caramelized, 1 minute more. Add 2 tbsp. minced garlic, 2 tbsp. minced ginger, and 1 minced Thai chili (these are hot), cook for 1 minute. Add 1/3 cup chicken broth. 2 tbsp. Chinese black or balsamic vinegar, and 1 tbsp. soy sauce; cook until almost evaporated., about 2 minutes. Add ½ lb. halved and pitted dry-cured black olives and reserved pork, cook for 1 minute more. Delicious!

Peanuts go well with long beans. Try this recipe from ‘Gourmet’ August 2002.

 

Long Bean Salad

1 bunch long beans (1 ¼ lb.) trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces

3 large shallots (sliced lengthwise and fried)

2 large shallots, thinly sliced

4 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced and fried

1 tbsp. sesame seeds, toasted

2 tbsp. salted roasted peanuts, finely chopped

1 tbsp. peanut oil

Garnish: Fresh cilantro and lime wedges

Cook beans in large pot of boiling salted water until crisp-tender, 4-5 minutes. Drain, then plunge into a large bowl of cold water to stop cooking. Drain beans well and pat dry. Toss beans with remaining ingredients and season with salt.