Jerusalem Artichokes

I dug some Jerusalem artichokes the other day (since my husband cannot dig them on his crutches) and he wanted me to use his artichokes. They were hard to get out of the ground and hard to clean, but they turned into two very tasty dishes. When working with Jerusalem artichokes, it is important to remember that they quickly oxidize and turn brown after being peeled. Just like potatoes, after Jerusalem artichokes are peeled, they should be soaked in cool water until they are cooked. Putting a few drops of acid into the water such as lemon juice or vinegar can help prevent this browning process also known as “enzymatic browning.”

My newest cookbook which is called Dig It is a 20 lb. book discussing the history of vegetable cookery, especially vegetables in Louisiana. Written by John Folse, it has everything you would ever want to know about vegetables and how to cook them. These two recipes are from that book, and I would say they are excellent recipes for Jerusalem artichokes.

 

Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Pecan Oil

Serves 8: Takes one hour to prepare.

2 pounds Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and chopped

½ cup pecan oil, divided

¼ pound unsalted butter

1 cup diced onions

1/2 cup diced celery

½ cup diced green bell peppers

2 tbsps. minced garlic

Salt and cracked black pepper to taste

Granulated garlic to taste

2 quarts chicken stock

2 cups diced portabella mushrooms

½ cup diced red bell peppers

½ cup diced yellow bell peppers

½ cup thinly sliced green onions

½ cup chopped parsley

1 cup heavy whipping cream

½ cup chopped pecans, toasted

¼ cup shredded mozzarella cheese

 

In a large, heavy bottomed pot, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add onions, celery, green bell peppers and minced garlic, and sauté 3-5 minutes or until vegetables are wilted. Add Jerusalem artichokes and sauté an additional 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt, pepper, and granulated garlic then add stock. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to simmer and cook 15-20 minutes or until they are tender. Working in batches, transfer contents of pot to a blender and blend until smooth. Return soup to pot and place over medium-low heat. In a medium sauté pan, heat ¼ cup pecan oil over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms, red and yellow peppers, green onions and parsley then sauté 5-7 minutes or until lightly browned. Season with salt, pepper and granulated garlic.  Transfer contents of sauté pan to pot with soup, stirring to incorporate. Add cream and heat through. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper. Ladle into warm bowls and drizzle with remaining pecan oil and top with roasted pecans and mozzarella cheese.

 

Jerusalem Artichokes and Prosciutto Risotto

Serves 8

1 pound Jerusalem artichokes, peeled, halved lengthwise and sliced

3 slices prosciutto, chopped

2 cups Arborio rice

¼ cup olive oil

Salt and cracked black pepper to taste

Granulated garlic to taste

½ cup minced shallots

¼ cup thinly sliced garlic

6 cups hot chicken stock

¼ cup minced green bell pepper

¼ cup minced red bell pepper

¼ cup minced yellow bell pepper

1 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped and reserved

1 tbsp. chipped cold butter

¼ cup minced chives

In a large skillet, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Add Jerusalem artichoke slices and season lightly with salt and pepper and granulated garlic. Cook 8-10 minutes or until tender and golden, stirring occasionally. Using a slotted spoon, transfer Jerusalem artichokes to a plate and set aside. In the same oil, sauté shallots and sliced garlic, 2-3 minutes or until tender, being careful not to brown garlic. Add rice and cook 1 minute or until lightly toasted and well coated with oil, stirring occasionally. Add half of Jerusalem artichoke slices and stir to incorporate. Add 1 cup hot stock, stirring constantly, and cook until all liquid is absorbed before adding more stock. Continue cooking and adding stock 15-20 minutes or until rice is creamy and al dente. Add bell peppers and stir 2-3 minutes or until thoroughly heated. When rice is perfectly cooked, remove from heat. Blend in Parmesan, vanilla seeds and butter. Add prosciutto and remaining Jerusalem artichokes, stirring gently into risotto until cheese is melted. Adjust seasonings to taste using salt, pepper and granulated garlic. Transfer risotto to a decorative platter and garnish with minced chives.

 

Silky Chocolate Pudding

Yes, Valentine’s Day is Sunday and what to cook or where to eat? I always suggest to stay home and enjoy a simple homey, lovely meal together.

I was thinking of chocolate for dessert and came across an article on chocolate pudding. This would be perfect! As children we all remember the instant pudding that took a few minutes to make. This was good as I remember, but I found a recipe that is almost as quick and far more enjoyable.

There are a few things you need to know before making this pudding. First choose your cocoa, either natural cocoa or less acidic Dutch-process cocoa. Dutch-process cocoa (used in the pudding here) produces a darker chocolate flavor, while natural cocoa gives the pudding a milk chocolate flavor. Secondly, sift out lumps. For the smoothest pudding, sift the cornstarch, cocoa, and salt before adding the cream, and mix really well to eliminate any lumps. Thirdly, use a heavy-duty saucepan so the milk will heat evenly and a whisk long enough to keep your hands clear of the steaming custard. Fourthly, temper the eggs. The yolks must be heated gently so they don’t scramble. Fifthly, cook out the cornstarch. Cornstarch must be boiled thoroughly for it to thicken properly; if your pudding becomes watery after chilling, it is a sign that the cornstarch was not cooked enough.

Some people like pudding skin but that is really not good because it is usually rubbery. To prevent this press plastic wrap directly against the surface of the pudding before letting it cool. Before serving, whisk the pudding vigorously by hand or whip a few seconds with a hand mixer. 

From February/March 2015 “Fine Cooking Magazine”

Silky Chocolate Pudding

Serves 4

1 ½ oz. (6 Tbs.) cocoa powder (Dutch process or natural)

1 oz. (3Tbs.) cornstarch

¼ tsp. table salt

2 large egg yolks

2 cups whole milk

½ cup granulated sugar

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Sift the cocoa powder, cornstarch, and salt into a medium bowl. With a silicone spatula or whisk, slowly mix in the cream, elimination any visible lumps as you go; the mixture will be quite thick. Mix in the egg yolks until combined. Set aside.

Heat the milk and sugar in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat, stirring often with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula, until the sugar dissolves. When bubbles form around the edge of the milk, remove the pan from the heat, Whisk about half of the hot milk mixture into the cocoa mixture. When smooth, whisk it into the milk remaining in the saucepan.

Bring the pudding to a boil over medium-high heat, whisking slowly and scraping the bottom of the pot to prevent scorching. The pudding will begin to thicken as it approaches a full boil. Watch for large, lava-like bubbles to roll up to the surface, and for small fat bubbles on the edges. When the pudding has reached this stage, turn the heat down to medium and whisk vigorously for 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.

Whisk in the vanilla. Transfer the pudding to a shallow container (such as an 8-inch baking dish) and spread it evenly, then press plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the pudding to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 3 days.

Whisk vigorously to loosen the pudding before serving.

Variations:

Plain chocolate pudding is only the beginning. Try one of these mix-ins.

Mocha pudding:

Add 2 tsp. instant expresso powder when you add the vanilla.

Boozy chocolate pudding:

Instead of the vanilla, stir in 2Tbs. of your favorite spirit, such as bourbon, brandy, or Scotch.

Enjoy Valentine’s Day!

   

Beans

Since my husband is still on the mend, I am looking for recipes for sources of iron. I found that clams, beef, lamb, liver, nuts, green leafy vegetables, tofu, beans, and chocolate are some of the better sources of iron. I focused in on the beans since I like them very much and make a big pot of them almost every week.

People have been cooking beans for ages but what is the right way? Maybe we need some basics.

Soak those beans. You do not have to do it but it will save you cook time in a big way. Cover them with several inches of cold water and refrigerate them overnight. They may start to sprout or ferment if your kitchen is too warm.

Transfer your beans to a heavy pot and top off with a couple inches of water. It is not necessary to toss the soaking liquid. Bring them to a gentle simmer, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Aggressive boiling might cook them a bit faster, but they will be more likely to break apart. After this, it is time to add aromatics like onions, chili, or garlic if you like, along with dried and/or fresh herbs like bay leaves, thyme sprigs, rosemary sprigs etc. Hold off on salt and acidic ingredients like tomatoes at this point.

Cook, partly covered, until beans are tender. Some beans fall apart, and some are better at staying firm. Now add the salt at this point until the broth, not the beans tastes well-seasoned. Taste the liquid because it takes about half an hour for the beans to absorb the salt. Now you can add tomatoes or other acidic components, it you like.

Unless you plan on using the beans right away, let the beans cook completely in their liquid. Don’t throw away the bean broth. They will keep refrigerated for about 5 days, ready to become dinner at a moment’s notice. They also freeze beautifully too, so use some deli pints and quart containers and freeze them. So you can cook a lot of beans.

Not all beans are created equal. Buy your beans the same way you buy your produce or meat. Find a source you can trust, and pay a little extra for higher quality. Heirloom beans boast more complex flavors than what you find in your standard bag of supermarket legumes. When cooked properly, they barely need any embellishment at all beyond salt. There is a whole world of stunning, richly flavored heirloom beans, and some websites are: ranchogordo.com, elegantbeans.com, zursunbeans.com and almagourmet.com.

One must remember that beans without fat and salt are like bread without butter. They are just not worth eating. Beans don’t have the kind of internal fat that, say, a steak has-on their own. But add a schmaltz or lard and a healthy amount of salt and all of a sudden they taste great.

Meat knows how to be a good friend to beans without being too clingy---only small amounts are needed to really make a bean dish sing. This meat-as-flavor concept is economical and decently healthy. I usually buy a smoked ham hock to cook with my beans. It makes them have a wonderful flavor and the meat is a nice addition to the meal.

Try this bean dish. I have done it twice and find it delicious!

From bon appétit, February/2016.

Schmaltz-Refried Pinto Beans

Cook 3 oz. slab bacon, sliced ¼ “ thick, in a large saucepan over medium heat, turning often, until browned and lightly crisped, 8-10 minutes. Add 1 chopped large onion and 4 chopped garlic cloves and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, 8-10 minutes. Add 1 dried chile de arbol, seeds removed, crushed, or ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes and ½ tsp. ground cumin and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add 1 ½ cups pinto beans, soaked overnight, and 4 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and cover. Simmer, stirring occasionally and adding more water if needed, until beans are tender and beginning to fall apart, 1 ½ -2 hours. Season with salt and pepper and let sit 30 minutes. Heat ½ cup schmaltz (chicken fat), lard, or vegetable oil in a pot or skillet over medium. Add beans and their cooking liquid and cook, mashing with a potato masher, until beans are nearly smooth and very thick, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1 tsp. apple cider. Season with salt, pepper, and more vinegar, if desired. Thin with water if needed to loosen just before serving.

Do Ahead: Beans can be cooked and/or refried 3 days ahead. Let cook; cover and chill.

Makes 8 servings.

King Cake

We have spent the entire month of January in North Carolina----not like the Gulf Coast in being tuned to Carnival and Mardi Gras. But I did see king cake this year in the local grocery in Wilmington.

The usual king cake available to buy is a brioche-style cake streaked with layers of buttery-cinnamon filling and made with an added layer of raw sugar crystals in the traditional Mardi Gras colors of purple, green and gold. I find these a bit dry. I like my cakes moist and would rather have one made with a filling of cream cheese, pudding, or fruit compote.

The tradition of hiding a prize inside the king cake dates back to 17^th century France and even earlier into Greco-Roman polytheism. What began with baking in a red bean, evolved into more extravagant treats: coins, diamonds, and gold Donald Entringer, owner of the popular New Orleans bakery McKenzie’s, began baking miniature china dolls into his king cakes in the 1950’s. Thus began the present prevalent tradition. A plastic infant representing the baby Jesus is most common, and the partygoer whose slice contains the trinket is bestowed with good luck and crowned king/queen of the party but also renders the winner responsible for the next king cake.

The following recipe is for the classic French king cake, a puff pastry tart filled with an almond-brandy-butter filling.

King Cake or Galette de Rois

8-10 servings

This recipe is from Executive Chef Kristen Essig of Meaubar in New Orleans who credits her friend, Chef Anne Kearney for introducing her to the recipe. I found it in February’s “Palate” magazine.

Nonstick cooking spray

1 cup granulated sugar, separated

1 pound all-butter puff pastry (Check the package. Puff pastry made with vegetable shortening is not as high-quality as puff pastry made with real butter.)

1 ½ sticks (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened

3 eggs

3 tablespoons brandy

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

¾ cup almond meal

¼ cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons heavy cream

1 king cake baby, optional

Powdered sugar, for dusting

 

1. Prepare 8-inch tart pan with removable bottom by spraying with cooking spray and dusting with ¼ cup granulated sugar. Remove bottom of pan, and grease, then sugar, inside of rim.

2. Divide puff pastry in half. Work with half of pastry at a time, keeping other half refrigerated. Roll out first half to 1/8 inch thick, 9 inch diameter round. Place into prepared tart pan, allowing about 1 inch to drape over sides of pan Refrigerate until ready to use.

3. Roll second half of pastry to 1/8 inch thick, 9 inch diameter round. Place on sheet pan, and refrigerate until ready to assemble cake.

4. Place butter and remaining ¾ cup sugar into bowl of stand mixer fitter with paddle attachment, then cream until smooth and light in color. Add 2 eggs to mixture, one at a time, incorporating first egg fully before adding second. Fold in brandy and vanilla.

5. Mix together almond meal and flour in separate bowl, then fold into butter mixture.

6. In another bowl, whisk together remaining egg and heavy cream. Pour almond filling into tart pan lined with prepared puff pastry. Brush rim of puff pastry with egg/cream glaze, then place second rolled out pastry round on top. Press edges down against outside of pan to seal. Cut off excess. Refrigerate glaze and tart overnight.

7. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

8. Place tart pan on baking sheet then brush top of cake with egg/cream glaze. Using sharp paring knife, score top of pastry in half circles working your way from center to edge. Be careful not to cut through pastry, just score.

9. Bake tart until cake has puffed and turned golden brown, approximately 25-30 minutes. Place on wire rack to cool. Sprinkle with powdered sugar before serving and sneak that king cake baby into bottom of tart.

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler!

No-knead Bread

The New York Times published a recipe from Jim Lahey, of the Sullivan Street Bakery, and it has become one of the most requested recipes the paper has known. Mr. Lahey said a six-year old could do the bread and he is probably right. The beauty of the bread it that there is no kneading and very few ingredients and time will make the bread.

My daughter sent me this recipe and I did it immediately. The bread was so good and yes, so easy. If you do not like to take the time to make bread, this is for you. It makes a 1 ½ pound loaf and has a hard crust and a chewy inside. Perfect for dipping in soups! I have been giving this recipe to all my friends and they love it.

No-Knead Bread

Yield: One 1 ½-pound loaf

Ingredients:

3 cups all-purpose flour or bread flour, more for dusting

¼ teaspoon instant yeast

1 ½ teaspoons salt

Cornmeal or wheat bran as needed

Preparation

Step 1

In a large bowl combine flour, yeast and salt. Add 1 5/8 cups water, and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy and sticky. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest at least 12 hours, preferably about 18, at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees.

Step 2

Dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles. Lightly flour a work surface and place dough on it; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself once or twice. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest about 15 minutes.

Step 3

Using just enough flour to keep dough from sticking to work surface or to your fingers, gently and quickly shape dough into a ball. Generously coat a cotton towel (not terry cloth) with flour, wheat bran or cornmeal. Cover with another cotton towel and let rise for about 2 hours. When it is ready, dough will be more than double in size and will not readily spring back when poked with a finger. (At this point you could sprinkle on some herbs if your wish, or sesame seeds)

Step 4

At least a half-hour before dough is ready, heat oven to 450 degrees. Put a 6-8 quart covered pot (cast iron, enamel, Pyrex or ceramic) in oven as it heats. When dough is ready, carefully remove pan from oven. Slide your hand under towel and turn dough over into pot, seam side up; it may look like a mess, but that is O.K. Shake pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed; it will straighten out as it bakes. Cover with lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15 to 30 minutes, until loaf is beautifully browned. Cool on a rack.