Virginia '14

We enjoyed the Historic Virginia Garden Tour last year so much we decided to do a repeat. This year, the 81^st, we drove to the Northern Neck. This is the peninsula between the Potomac and the Rappahannock Rivers and is the area where my husband’s family settled in the 1640’s. One branch had landed in Jamestown in 1624 but moved up to the Northern Neck. We even visited one old church, North Farnham, 1737, where an ancestor was probably baptized that year.

The Northern Neck tour this year centered in Richmond County on the Rappahannock, a very rural area even today. The treats of the tour were two 18^th century mansions that are still working farms lived in by the original families---Sabine Hall, built by Landon Carter in 1735, and Mt. Airy built by John Tayloe, 1748-1758. Both are set in parks next to their fields with smaller plantings near the house. Sabine Hall has a falling garden, i.e. terraced, which is still there but with diminished plantings. But even Landon Carter after a drought one year had the terraces plowed and planted in turnips.

Perhaps the best thing we saw was Stratford Hall and George Washington’s birth place. Stratford is the ancestral home of the Lees and best remembered as the birthplace of Robert E. Lee. We spent a long time there as there is a lot to see. They are re-interpreting parts of the house and the gardens. The plantation became a museum in the 1930’s but as more information is obtained the interpretation is improved.

George Washington was born nearby at his father’s Pope’s Creek farm. In the rush to provide a suitable memorial for the first President a colonial house was built only later to learn that the original house was located a short piece away and looked quite different. The site is run by the National Park Service and is free. The guide was quite informative. He saw my husband’s Red Devon cap and asked if we raised Devon. We knew that the site raised heritage breeds and that they used to have oxen on display which were Devon steers. Indeed there were four cows that he directed us to in one of the outer fields. The Devon bull was off site doing duty elsewhere. My husband was anxious to see the cemetery where, Jane Butler, Augustine Washington’s first wife is buried. (It was his second wife Mary Ball who became George Washington’s mother.) Jane Butler was a cousin to one of my husband’s ancestors.

There was not much in food offerings in this part of the world. We did have a nice lunch at a small restaurant called The Daily, probably because it was located beside a newspaper office. They have been in business for 5 years and offered variety of good things. We chose the roasted red pepper soup and a sandwich that tasted like a pizza with tomatoes and mozzarella. But perhaps the best was the soup, and in one of the local ‘House and Home’ magazines from Middlesex County was a very nice recipe. I came home and immediately did the recipe and it was a keeper. I found red peppers on sale at one of the local markets here (they are pricey at times), and after roasting them, the rest of the recipe came together fast. Also remember that red and orange peppers contain carotenoids helpful to eye health and the prevention of cataracts and macular degeneration. The fiber in these peppers helps lower cholesterol and promotes digestion.

 

Roasted Red Pepper Soup

Serves 4

2-2 ½ pounds red peppers (6-7)

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 ½ cups yellow onion, chopped

1 cup chicken broth

2 cups water

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Pinch of cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

8-10 fresh basil leaves, shredded (My basil has come in.)

1/3 to ½ cup heavy cream

Cut peppers in half lengthwise; remove stems, ribs and seeds. Lay cut side down on baking sheet; place under broiler. Roast until skins blister and blacken, 15-20 minutes. Remove and cover with foil until cool. Peel off skins, chop into medium pieces. Set aside.

Warm oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until translucent. Add chicken broth, water, salt and cayenne pepper. Cover partially and bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer 15-20 minutes.

Drain peppers and onion in colander, reserving liquid. Purée peppers and onion in food processor or blender and add reserved liquid as necessary to make a smooth soup.

Add cream at the end and decorate with basil leaves.

Serve hot or cold.

 

Peas 2014

Peas are the ultimate springtime treat. They are sweet and tender, quick to cook and incredibly versatile. What is great about tender young peas aside from their sweet, crunchy flavor is that they take only a few minutes to cook. The secret to maintaining their sweetness and bright-green color is to cook  them as little as possible, just enough to make them tender. They lend themselves to almost any cooking method, from boiling and steaming to sautéing, stir-frying, and quick-braising.

Peas’ mild sweetness pairs well with many different flavors. Cured meats like bacon, pancetta, prosciutto, smoked ham, and chorizo work wonderfully with peas, as their pronounced saltiness complements peas’ gentle flavor. Fresh mint if also a classic flavor partner, bringing peas to life in an instant. There’re also a natural with onions, scallions, and other alliums, and they go well with spring vegetables like asparagus, new potatoes, carrots, and fava beans.

Below are three pea recipes (a soup, pasta dish, and a salad) and remember that if you do not have a garden with fresh peas you can substitute frozen peas. Frozen peas are usually picked when they are young and immediately frozen, so they are often sweeter than fresh peas that have been hanging around too long. Our peas are a little late this year as has been everything in the garden.

From the Spring Issue of ‘Fine Cooking’ 2014.

Pea, Butter Lettuce, and Herb Salad

Serves 4

1 cup fresh shelled peas (about 1 lb. unshelled) or frozen peas

Kosher salt

3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 Tablespoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

Freshly ground black pepper

1 small head butter lettuce, washed and dried, leaves town into bite-size pieces

6 medium radishes, thinly sliced

4 scallions (white and light-green parts) thinly sliced on the diagonal

¼ cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf-parsley leaves

¼ cup loosely packed fresh chervil leaves

2 teaspoons very coarsely chopped fresh tarragon

2 tablespoons thinly sliced chives

3 oz. ricotta salata, shaved thinly with a vegetable peeler

Blanch peas in boiling salted water for 2-4 minutes. Drain and spread them on a baking sheet.

In a small bowl, whisk the oil with the lemon juice, lemon zest, and salt and pepper to taste.

Just before serving toss the peas in a small bowl with 1 tablespoon of the dressing. Toss the butter lettuce, radishes, scallions, and herbs in a large bowl with just enough of the remaining dressing to lightly coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

 

Peas and Spinach Soup with Coconut Milk

Serves 6

2 large leeks (or two cups chopped scallions or 2 cups thinly sliced white onions)

1 Tbs. unsalted butter

2 Tbs. white basmati rice

1 tsp. salt, more to taste

2 tsp. curry powder

4 sprigs fresh cilantro, more for garnish

4 cups vegetable stock

1 ½ to 2 lb. peas, shucked about 2 cups

4 cups lightly packed coarsely chopped spinach leaves, any thick stems removed

7 oz. coconut milk (about 1 cup)

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a soup pot over medium heat, melt the butter and stir in the rice. Scoop the clean leeks from the water, and add them to the pot along with the salt, curry powder, cilantro, and 1 cup of the broth. Cook over medium-low heat at a vigorous simmer for about 12 minutes, so the rice is almost done.

Add the remaining 3 cups stock, the peas, and the spinach and bring to a boil. Boil for about 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in the coconut milk.

In a blender or food processor, purée the soup in batches until smooth. Taste for salt, season with white pepper and serve, garnished with fresh cilantro leaves.

Fusilli with Peas and Feta

Serves 4

Kosher salt

1 ½ cups lower-salt chicken broth

1 lb. fresh or frozen peas (about 3 cups)

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

12 oz. dried fusilli pasta

4 oz. feta, finely crumbled (about 1 cup)

Lemon wedges for serving

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat,

In a 3-quart saucepan, bring the chicken broth to a boil over high-heat. Add the peas and cook until crisp-tender, 2 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and using a slotted spoon, remove and reserve 1 cup of the peas. Transfer the broth and the remaining peas to a blender. Add the olive oil, all but 1 tsp. of the dill, 1 ¼ tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper and blend until smooth. It is fine if the sauce looks thin at this point.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta until al dente. Drain and transfer to a large bowl. Toss with the pasta with the sauce, the reserved peas, and ¾ cup of the feta. Serve garnished with the remaining ¼ cup feta and 1  tsp. dill, with lemon wedges on the side.

 

Italian Food, Giada De Laurentiis

Everyone knows Giada De Laurentiis, if you watch any cooking shows at all. She is also the granddaughter of the director Dino De Laurentiis who once had a house down from ours on Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina. He is long gone, but Giada is pretty, perky, and has fans from her Food Network shows and seven cookbooks to her credit. I don’t watch her show or have her cookbooks, but I did see an article in the latest issue of Food and Wine that she is opening her first restaurant in Las Vegas in the new Caesars’ brand new boutique hotel. Enormous letters on the facade of The Cromwell spell out G-I-A-D-A for all to see.

The menu at Giada will feature many of the beloved Italian dishes the chef is known for, but with an ambitious twist. She said that chicken cacciatore had followed her around for years and she had always made a simple version for home cooks. Her restaurant will have “chicken cacciatore” with a wow factor. At the restaurant she will transform the braised cut up bird her fans love into a succulent whole bird, rubbed with red butter under the skin and roasted with fennel, cherry tomatoes, sweet peppers and other seasonal ingredients.

I especially loved her recipe in the magazine for lemon spaghetti with shrimp. I found it so good and refreshing. It had the lemony taste of spring and the fried capers were delicious added on top.

Below are the two recipes which I think are her best in the magazine. I would encourage you to try the shrimp dish. I am trying the chicken this week. Everyone generally loves Italian cooking so I don’t think you will go wrong with these recipes.

 

Recipes taken from the May, 2014 issue of ‘Food and Wine’

 

Lemon Spaghetti with Shrimp

Serves 6

Vegetable oil, for frying

¼ cup capers---rinsed, drained and patted dry

1 lb. spaghetti

2/3 cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest

½ cup fresh lemon juice (from 3 lemons)

1 lb. shrimp, shelled and deveined

Salt and pepper

½ cup chopped basil, plus more for garnish

In a skillet, heat ¼ inch of vegetable oil until shimmering. Add the capers and fry over moderately high heat, stirring until browned and crisp, 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the capers to paper towels to drain.

In a saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the spaghetti until al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk 2/3 cup of the olive oil with the grated cheese, lemon zest and lemon juice.

In a very large skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil until shimmering. Season the shrimp with salt and pepper, add to the skillet and cook over moderately high heat, turning once, until just opaque, 4 minutes. Reduce the heat to moderate and add the pasta, lemon sauce, half of the reserved pasta water and the ½ cup of basil. Cook, tossing, until the pasta and shrimp are coated, 2 minutes, adding more of the pasta water if the spaghetti is dry; transfer to shallow bowls, garnish with basil and the fried capers and serve.

 

Roast Chicken Cacciatore with Red Wine Butter

Serves 4

One 3 ½ lb. chicken

Kosher salt

5 thyme leaves

1 cup red wine

2 Tbsp. tomato paste

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened

4 basil sprigs, plus leaves for garnish

4 oregano sprigs

3 garlic cloves, crushed

1 small fennel bulb, cut into ¾-inch wedges through the core

1 cup cherry tomatoes

¾ cup pearl onions

8 jarred sweet Peppadew peppers, halved

6 baby bell peppers, halved lengthwise and seeded

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

½ cup chicken stock

½ cup olives, pitted and chopped (green olives would probably be best)

Season the chicken with 2 teaspoons of salt and stuff the thyme sprigs in the cavity. Transfer the chicken to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and poke holes in the top; refrigerate overnight.

In a saucepan, boil the wine over moderately high heat until reduced to 2 tablespoons, 7 minutes. Off the heat, whisk in the tomato paste, butter and 1 teaspoon salt. Let cool slightly.

Preheat the oven to 400°. Loosen the breast and thigh skin of the chicken and spread three-fourths of the red wine butter under the skin. Stuff the basil sprigs, oregano sprigs, and garlic into the cavity and tie the legs with string. Rub the remaining butter over the chicken and let stand for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large, deep ovenproof skillet, toss the fennel, tomatoes, onions, both peppers and olive oil; season with salt. Set the chicken in the center of the vegetables. Pour in the stock. Roast for 1 hour and 10 minutes, until an instant read thermometer inserted in the inner thigh registers 155°.Transfer to  a carving board and let rest for 15 minutes.

Simmer the broth over moderately high heat until slightly reduced, 3 minutes. Stir in the olives and transfer to a platter. Carve the chicken and arrange on the platter. Garnish with basil leaves and serve.

 

Eggs for Easter

I would like to be in New Orleans doing a great New Orleans brunch for Easter but because of other commitments I will not be there this year. I had been thinking the past few weeks about all the wonderful restaurants and their great jazz brunches and thought I could at least do a famous egg dish at home.

One of the most renowned, as well as popular, offerings in the egg category is Eggs Benedict. I have a special affection for this dish since my husband proposed to me over Eggs Benedict. In New Orleans eggs were very popular in the evening and late night or after the theater. During carnival season, Eggs Benedict are often served as supper after the balls. But most popular, are Eggs Benedict served as part of the New Orleans brunch, that marvelous invention that ties together breakfast and lunch into one very scrumptious and often lavish meal.

Another brunch egg dish is Eggs Sardou. The story goes that the French playwright Victorien Sardou was feted in the city of New Orleans during a visit to mount a production of several of his plays in the French Opera House. A popular chef at this time, knowing of Sardou’s love for artichokes, served him this invention. Sardou was so delighted by the recipe that the chef named it after him. Soon all the major restaurants in the city placed it on their menu.

All these recipes call for Hollandaise Sauce which puts fear in many cooks. The recipe for the sauce will be given at the end of the recipes. Also, you need to know how to poach an egg. I went to Julia Child for that!

So if a brunch at a fancy restaurant is not on the agenda for this Easter, try one of these egg dishes on your own.

Eggs Benedict

(From Galatoire’s Cookbook, 1994)

Serves 4

2 cups Hollandaise Sauce

8 English muffins, split

2 tbsp. clarified butter

8 slices Canadian bacon

8 eggs, poached

8 truffle slices (This would be great but most of us just don’t have truffles.)

Prepare Hollandaise Sauce and set aside.

Toast English muffins, faces up, and place on serving plates, keeping warm. Sauté Canadian bacon slices in the clarified butter for 2 minutes. Place on slice on each muffin. Poach the eggs and place one atop each muffin.

Top with equal portions of Hollandaise and place a slice of truffle on each.

Eggs Sardou

Serves 4

1 cup Hollandaise Sauce

8 artichokes

Enough water to cover

4 cups water

2 tsp. vinegar

8 eggs

1 cup creamed spinach

2 pinches paprika

Prepare the Hollandaise Sauce.

Place artichokes into a medium-sized pot filled with enough water to cover. Put a lid on the pot and boil for 30 minutes over a medium heat setting. Remove and allow to cool. Peel the leaves from the artichokes. Remove artichoke bottom and using a spoon, remove and discard choke. Slice off remaining stem from bottoms.

Poach the eggs.

Spoon equal portions of creamed spinach onto each of 4 plates, then next place the artichoke bottoms. Using a slotted spoon, carefully remove eggs from the water and transfer 2 onto each bottom. Top with a spoonful of Hollandaise Sauce. Garnish with a light sprinkle of paprika.

Hollandaise Sauce

Makes 2 cups

6 egg yolks, beaten well

1 ¼ cups (2 ½ sticks) butter, melted

Salt, white pepper, and ground red pepper

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

In the top of a double boiler, combine the egg yolks and 1 ½ tablespoons water. Beat with a wire whisk over hot, but not boiling water. Slowly add the butter and whip until the sauce begins to thicken. Add the salt and white and red pepper. Then whisk in the lemon juice. You can hold this for a while, and can refrigerate and put over hot water again to reconstitute before serving.

To poach an egg: One can use egg cups to have a perfect poach size, but for those of us who do not have egg poachers, use this technique: Prick the large end of the eggs with an egg pricker or drafting pin, going down ¼ inch, so that the pocket of air in the shell may escape. Lower the eggs, no more than 4 at a time, into boiling water, submerging them completely, for exactly 10 seconds. This slightly coagulates a film of white around the body of the egg, and helps keep a reasonably fresh egg in shape. After the 10 second boil, carefully crack the eggs close to the water and poach for 4 minutes. (I do mine a bit longer since I don’t like runny eggs---a childhood leftover.) One can add vinegar to the water since it does seem to help the eggs coagulate.

Happy Easter!