It is that time of year to begin thinking about Thanksgiving
dinner. I have been looking at all the magazines on how to cook the turkey, the
many sides possible, and of course the desserts. I generally go back to most of
the things I have done for years, but always want to try at least one new thing.
My husband came in from the garden and told me he had some
mirliton in the garden and what could I do with them. Most people know that
mirliton are squash and are also known as chayote. The mirliton is an
inexpensive and versatile staple of Louisiana. This unusual gourd contains one
large seed and is a member of the cucurbit family--think cucumbers and
watermelon--similarly mild and fibrous and distinctive for the vine like growth
of its plants, many of which bear edible fruit.
These squash are pale green and pear shaped with ridges
along the skin. Their flavor is delicate, and once you start cooking mirliton
they almost melt away. They work well with crabmeat and shrimp and are most
often served roasted and stuffed with a mixture of seafood.
You can often find mirlitons (more often called chayote) in
the grocery but they grow well in our deep South climate and are perennial in
our garden. Mirlitons are so easy to grow that many cultivate them in backyard
gardens. All you have to do is stick the end of the fruit in the ground at a
45-degree angle (after the ground has warmed up in the spring) and give it lots
of water, and a wild and vigorous vine will clamber over a fence or a trellis,
producing a crop in early fall. The vines really do need a lot of support. If you are thinking of planting a mirliton
next spring just save one from the grocery.
They generally sprout before planting time. You can place in a pot and put it out later
when the weather is more favorable.
So in honor of the mirliton in my garden I am doing a
mirliton dressing for Thanksgiving. Diced day-old bread is the best to use in this
recipe. Mirliton dressing is too loose for a stuffing, so it is always served
as a side dish.
From John Besh’s My New Orleans, The Cookbook
Mirliton and Shrimp Dressing
Serves 10
4 mirlitons, halved and peeled
3 tablespoons olive oil
8 tablespoons butter
1 medium onion, diced
1 stalk celery, diced
1 green bell pepper, seeded and diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
Leaves from 1 sprig fresh thyme
Leaves from 1 sprig fresh rosemary, chopped
Leaves from 1 sprig fresh sage, chopped
1 pound medium shrimp, peeled deveined, and finely chopped
½ cup crabmeat, picked over
4 cups diced day-old French bread
2 cups basic chicken stock
½ teaspoon basic Creole spices
1-2 dashes Tabasco
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 350ᴼ. Rub the mirlitons with oil.
Place them on a baking sheet cut side down and bake until they are fork tender
and easily peeled, about 45 minutes. Set the mirlitons aside to let rest until
they are cool enough to handle, then peel and cut them into 1-inch pieces
Melt the butter in a large skillet over moderate heat. Add
the onions, celery, and bell peppers and cook until the onions are translucent,
about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Increase heat to
medium-high, add the fresh herbs and shrimp, and stir frequently, until shrimp
are must cooked, 3-5 minutes, Stir in the crabmeat. Transfer to a mixing bowl.
Add the diced mirlitons and the remaining ingredients and stir until well
combined.
Spoon the dressing into a large buttered baking dish and
bake until golden brown, 20-30 minutes.
I like to add some Tabasco just before eating.
Although this would be a side at Thanksgiving, the mirliton
dressing makes a good main dish for dinner.
