Seeds for 2011

The seed catalogues have arrived.  And in the cold of January now is the time to go over them, plan, dream.  I save seed and sometimes I lose out and have to repurchase and some seed are hard to save and it is so much easier to just buy.  And there is always the temptation to try a lot of new stuff. The local farm store or co-op is often a good place to buy seed cheaply, but the number of varieties is limited.  Southern Exposure Seed Exchange (www.SouthernExposure.com) is a great seed catalogue with lots of information and I like Pine Tree (www.superseeds.com) because it is the cheapest mail order source I have found.

Beans are easy to save for seed.  I like the Rattlesnake green bean that I have been growing and I prefer pole beans.  Bush beans come and are gone quicker.  My Rattlesnake will produce until frost.  I also like to grow yardlong beans to use in Oriental dishes and I have saved those seed as well. They need staking.  They are kin to Southern peas so for seed saving, don’t plant near your Southern peas.  And speaking of Southern peas, I like Pink-eyed Purple Hull but the chipmunks have my seed from last year.  I may stake the peas this year.  That holds the pods up out of the chipmunks reach.  My Whippoorwill did well last year and I may try Mississippi Silver as well this year.  And thinking summer in the South, I have my Cow Horn okra seed.  There is always a pod (no, always several) that escapes me and is too large to eat so I save it for seed.   My peanuts have not done well in my clay soil.  Tennessee Red Valencia says it is ‘easy to grow without hilling, even in clay soils.’

I let my squash plants mix last year and am going to reorder.  I have been pleased with a British variety, Vegetable Marrow and an Italian zucchini, Cocozelle. I do like to do some winter squash.  I think the small sugar pumpkin can answer for these very well but I plan to plant a couple others this year: Delicata and I am going to try a cushaw, Green Striped.  Cucumbers are a must.  I have liked Boston Pickling and have seed.  I eat them raw and seem not to get to the pickling.  I also grow Boothby’s Blonde and may try West India Gherkin this year.  Said to be a very old pickler with vines more like watermelons.  I am also going to plant Suyo Long again this year— a Chinese variety ‘dependable in hot humid climates.’

Butter beans are a must.  I have saved seed of Speckled Calico.  I like them since they are large.  Shelling is a pain so you get more for your effort.

And there are the seeds to be planted soon: English peas and edible podded peas, and for the summer garden, seeds for the tomato, pepper and eggplant.  Must have some sugar snap peas and for the English peas I have saved Knight and am going to add Wando, ‘recommended especially for southern and coastal regions…the most productive pea for late sowings where heat is a problem.’  For tomatoes I am going again with Homestead, ‘developed for hot humid coastal areas, especially Florida,’ and Old Virginia, ‘produces even in long hot summers.’  I have my saved seed for jalapeños, also a nice little hot gem called Lemon Drop, my favorite banana peppers, and I use a squat Alma Paprika for my sweet pepper.  I have had trouble with eggplants the last couple years.  I am going with Listada de Gandia, a heirloom from France, ‘drought-tolerant, sets fruit well under high heat.”

I will need some lettuce seed. Romaine or Cos are the most nutritious type.  Loose-leaf is second in nutritional value.  And I like Bibb or Butterhead lettuce and it is more heat tolerant.  Jericho, ‘bred for desert heat’ in Israel, will be my Cos.  For loose-leaf I am going with Oakleaf though Black Seeded Simpson was all we ate at home as a child.  Buttercrunch is my Bibb. 

I got involved with beets last year so there are beet seed needed.  If you don’t like bleeding, try Golden or Chioggia with rings of reddish-pink and white.  I like parsnips too and will plant Hollow Crown again this year.  Remember the trend, ‘root vegetables are the new heirloom.’

I love arugula and I have also been growing mache or cornsalat since my husband’s German secretary gave us some seed 30 years ago.  Mache has such a sweet taste. It is often found in restaurant mixtures but I like it by itself with a little olive oil, salt and pepper, so I can appreciate it for itself. 

For herbs I must have basil for my tomatoes, and parsley and cilantro.  There is dill and I am going to try some cutting celery for those recipes that need a celery taste.

I saw this recipe for a parsley salad that I want to try in a recent Saveur.

Parsley and Pancetta salad

Make a mound of parsley (broad leaf) on the salad plate, grate Parmigiano-Reggiano liberally over the parsley, ladle hot crispy pancetta and pancetta fat over the salad.  Eat.

Also in that issue of Saveur is a salad of ripe tomatoes with slivered red onion, salt, and extra-virgin olive oil sprinkled with green coriander seeds.  Cilantro is the green leaf and the dried seed is called coriander, which I use a lot in Indian cooking.  I have never used the seed green.  It is said to taste like a cross between the dried coriander seed and the fresh cilantro leaves. 

That magazine issue also suggests another new salad—amaranth.  So I am ordering some Red Amaranth seed and will try it.  They say amaranth has a distinctive flavor—nutty, pealike, slightly peppery.  Use the young leaves in a salad or when more mature, stir-fry or braise them with onion, garlic, chicken stock, and cumin.

Did I tell you all that I am planning?—No.  Will this all come to fruition?—No.  The planning is fun and if I don’t get too ambitious we will eat well.  I believe the healthiest vegetables are grown at home with no pesticides, and manure and wood ashes and compost for fertilizer.  Someone said that the best fertilizer is the farmer’s foot so a daily visit to the garden can help a lot (pick off those worms!).  Don’t have a lot of time, start small---some herbs, lettuce, maybe a few tomatoes, peppers and eggplants, some squash.  These don’t take a lot of space and therefore less time.  And in our hot, often dry summers don’t forget to water.

Cozy Winter Meal by the Fire

There is nothing more satisfying that a simple, good tasting, comfort meal on a cold winter night. I recently decided to do a braised chicken with a root vegetable puree. Some vegetables could be found in the winter garden and some I had to go out and buy. The chicken called for Madeira, which of course, I did not have, but I found a bottle at Whole Foods for less than $10.00. Madeira, I learned is named for the Portuguese island where it is made. A fortified wine that is heated during the maturation process, it ranges from light colored and dry to dark and very sweet. The lighter versions are often apéritifs, while the darker, richer varieties can be served as a sweet post-dinner digestif.

Madeira is also great for cooking in both sweet and savory preparations. It can be used as the deglazing liquid for all kinds of meat. Madeira and country ham have been partners since Colonial days, when trading ships would pick up fortified wine on the way to America. Unlike regular wine, which is more fragile, Madeira would withstand the journey over turbulent waters and the extreme temperature changes common in the hold of the ship.

This chicken recipe was just wonderful, and you can prepare the root vegetable puree while the chicken cooks. I did purchase a free-range chicken at the local farmer’s market. It was not as fatty as the usual store bought one. It had not been pumped with hormones. The root vegetable puree called for a rutabaga, which we do not grow here so I had to buy one. We had some carrots and turnips in the garden, and sweet potatoes in the cellar, so that was my husband’s contribution to the winter meal.

Recipes are from Frank Stitt’s Southern Table.  I find that I can always trust his recipes to produce a good meal.

Chicken with Autumn (Winter) Vegetables and Madeira

Serves 8

2 tablespoons olive oil

One 3-4 pound free-range chicken, rinsed and cut into serving pieces

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 medium onions, diced

3 medium carrots, peeled and sliced ½ inch thick

1 cup medium-dry Madeira

1 cup white wine

2 cups chicken broth, can be low-sodium

A few thyme sprigs

3 bay leaves

2 thin slices country ham, cut into thin julienne strips

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

In a large heavy sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Season the chicken with salt and white pepper. Raise the heat to medium-high and sear the pieces on all sides until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a rack set over a baking sheet and set aside.

Wipe the pan clean with a paper towel. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in the pan over medium heat. Add the onions and carrots and cook until softened and golden, about 10 minutes. Add the Madeira and white wine, bring to a boil, and reduce by three-quarters. Add the broth, thyme, and bay leaves and bring to a simmer.

Place the chicken in a casserole and pour the simmering broth over it. Cover the chicken with parchment paper, then cover the pan with a lid or aluminum foil and braise in the oven until tender, about 15 minutes for the breast and 45 minutes for the dark meat. Remove the pieces as they are done and transfer to a rack set over a baking sheet.

Strain the braising liquid into a large saucepan and set the pan over medium-high heat, half on and half off the burner so you can easily skim off the fat as it rises to the cooler side of the pan. Reduce by half, 10-15- minutes. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter bit by bit, swirling it into the sauce. Add the chicken to the pan and heat through.

Spoon the vegetable puree onto individual plates. Arrange the chicken next to the puree. Garnish with the little strips of country ham.

Autumn Root Vegetable Puree (Remember the 2011 trend: root vegetables are the new heirlooms.)

Serves 4

2 medium turnips, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces

2 small carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces

1 medium parsnip, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces

1 medium sweet potato, peeled and cut into small chunks

½ medium rutabaga, peeled, trimmed, and cut into small chunks

Kosher salt

1-3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

Freshly ground black pepper

In a medium saucepan, combine the turnips, carrots, parsnip, sweet potato, and rutabaga, add a good pinch of salt, and cover by 2 inches with water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook until the vegetables are tender, 30-40 minutes.

Drain the vegetables and then return them to the saucepan to dry out over medium heat for 2 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to a food mill and puree. (I used my food processor). Add the butter and salt and pepper to taste, and reheat if necessary before serving.

Trends 2011

Trends, they may not be for me and they may not be for you but it’s always interesting.  I listened with care to NPR’s recent piece on 2011.  Death of the cupcake. (One cupcake company, Crumbs, does not know this.  They are going public and plan to open 200 stores in 2011.)  Last year it was doughnuts are the new cupcakes.  This year: pies are the new cupcake.  Now pies I can embrace especially savory ones.  I was just married and starting to cook when I went to a cooking class and learned how to make a really good piecrust.  That made all the difference in the world for my pies.

Veggies are the new meat.  They quoted my guru Michael Pollan, “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.”  If you haven’t read his Omnivore’s Dilemma or In Defense of Food---do.  It could change the way you think and eat.  Thomas Jefferson, my husband’s hero, said over 200 years ago that he used a little meat to season his vegetables. He often attributed his long life to the abundance of vegetables and salads in his diet rather than animal flesh, and to his preference for wine over strong spirits.  And quoting Jefferson I must add his idea that wine is “a necessity of life.”  He also considered olive oil a practical necessity.

Kale is in. I suspect we will continue to eat more collards and mustard and turnip greens than kale or chard, greens grown further north.  And I think poke sallet is as good as spinach.  Root veggies are the new heirlooms.  Turnips, beets anyone?

Childhood nutrition is in.  Obesity is the new tobacco.  Tobacco is not a problem for me and if we ate as Pollan directed, the obesity issue would be less of a problem for everyone.

Junk food has gone upscale with hot dog restaurants.  Doubt that I will be affected by this one.

Food halls like Harrods in London are appearing in the larger metropolitan areas.  I must say Harrods is a place to see and it makes you want to buy and go home and cook---not exactly an option when in London.

If pies are in this year, (and I have heard that Michele Obama really likes pies), I think we should learn to do a great pie crust. I really think there is nothing more tasteless that the frozen pie crusts that you buy from the frozen food section in the grocery store. Pie crust is basically made of three ingredients: flour, fat (in the form of butter, lard, or shortening), and ice water. When making pie crust some prefer the savory flavor of a short crust, while others prefer a sweet crust, sometimes called sweet dough. The difference between the two is that the latter has sugar mixed into the dough, which yields a more crumbly crust, as opposed to a flaky one.

When flour is worked with liquid, gluten develops. Gluten is a protein that, in essence, forms a web to help give a bread product its structure while baking. The more flour is worked, the longer the gluten strands become.

The goal when making a pie crust is to cut the gluten strands to keep them short. The first step in achieving this is to adequately coat the flour in fat. This is why a recipe will often call for cutting the shortening into the flour until it resembles small peas or sand. When the flour is coated in fat, it is more difficult for gluten to develop.

Proper temperature is also crucial. Once the fat has been added to the flour, do not allow it to melt by adding warm liquid or overworking it by hand. Always use ice-cold liquid so the integrity of the fat remains intact, and prepare the crust in a cool part of the kitchen, not hear a stove or dishwasher in use.

Last, mix the ingredients just to the point of being combined, wrap the dough in plastic, and let it rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

Another secret of a good pie crust is to always sift the flour before adding any fats or liquids. Sifting breaks up any clumps and adds air to the mixture. Also, if you are making something that requires little mixing, sift the flour first, then add the other dry ingredients and then sift two more times to disperse the other ingredients into the flour. Always roll the dough on a cool surface.

No-Fail Pie Crust

Makes 1 (9-inch double pie crust)

3 cups sifted all-purpose flour

¾ teaspoon coarse salt

½ cup lard, cut into pieces

½ cup cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1 egg, well beaten and chilled

6 tablespoons ice water (plus more, if needed)

1 teaspoon vinegar, chilled

Sift the flour and salt together into a large bowl. Add the lard and butter and cut them into the flour with a pastry blender until they resemble small peas.

In a separate bowl, mix the egg, water, and vinegar. Add to the flour mixture and mix quickly with your hands until just combined.

If too dry, add a little more cold water, a tablespoon at a time. Roll the dough into a ball and slightly flatten. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, before using.

There are endless varieties of fillings for the perfect pie crust. Some helpful hints for fillings include: when doing pecan pies use pecan pieces instead of halves, the pieces form a crisp sweet crust than cannot be achieved with halves; add a few drops of lemon juice or zest to a berry filling mixture because it will enhance the flavors of the fruit; if the berries will not thicken, toss the berries with a handful of flour or cornstarch before mixing them in the base; as for ice box pies, use only fruits that are in season and it will always taste best; as for meringues, use powdered sugar instead of granulated sugar and you will not have a gritty texture; making a meringue by hand is tiresome so use a mixer.

Let’s start the New Year out with a fresh pie from the kitchen. Yum!

Jicama

I bet you don’t have jicamas in your garden!  They are a staple in Latin America and can be found in the markets here in the states as the Latin community continues to grow.  Their origin is Mexico or South America but they have spread far and are grown all over Asia.  I found them listed in my “Asian Grocery Store” book.  They require a long growing season and are not ready until about frost time here in the South.  I have seen them in the grocery recently.  They look a bit like a turnip and are usually larger.  Buy some if you can find them and give them a try.  If you like them then add them to your garden for next year.

Jicama, pachyrhizus tuberosus, a legume, is a tender perennial vine that grows to 20 feet. (Pronounce the J as an H—hi-ca-ma.)  It is planted from seeds (not found in all seed sources so check around) and takes eight to nine months to produce the tubers.  Dig the tubers after the plants have died back in the fall.  They do not store well in the ground if there is a hard freeze.  They do flower and can make a good cover for a fence or trellis.  My source says to fertilize and keep watered but they are more drought tolerant than a lot of things in the vegetable garden.  And I suspect fertilizer may give you more vine than you want!

The tubers are crispy and slightly sweet.  They are often eaten raw.  Peel off the brown skin and slice.  In Mexico jicama is often dipped raw in chili powder and/or lime juice and eaten as a crudité.  They are more fibrous than water chestnuts but can be used as a substitute for them.

Jicama is a rich source of fiber, and a good source of potassium and Vitamin C.  It is low in sodium, has no fat and a cup contains only about 45 calories.

Fresh whole roots should be stored in a dry place, no colder than 50°.  It can be stored for a month or two.  Once sliced, keep in a plastic bag in the refrigerator where it can keep for about two weeks.

Get your veggies with a Jicama Salad

 Mix together 3 medium fresh and shredded jicama, 1 sliced apple and ½ cup chopped pecans in a small bowl. Prepare the dressing by mixing in another bowl: ½ cup sour cream, ½ cup mayonnaise, 1 teaspoon fresh and grated lime peel, 2 teaspoon lime juice, 2 ½ tablespoons honey, ½ teaspoon salt, 1/8 teaspoon pepper and ¼ teaspoon marjoram. Thoroughly blend the dressing into the jicama mixture and chill before serving.

Another delightful jicama salad is taken from the book, Cooking from the Garden, by Rosalind Creasy.

Cool White Salad

Serves 6

2 tablespoons lime juice

¼ teaspoon cumin

Salt to taste

Freshly ground white pepper to taste

Pinch cayenne pepper

6 tablespoons light, extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons cilantro, chopped fine

1 large or 2 small jicamas

1 slice red onion, one-half sliced orange for garnish

In a mixing bowl combine lime juice, cumin, salt, white pepper and cayenne pepper. Slowly whisk in olive oil until dressing is emulsified. Add cilantro and mix again. Peel jicama and cut into thin, matchstick-size slices. Pour dressing over jicama and mix well. Garnish with onion and orange. Place salad in refrigerator to chill.

Jicama spears with lime juice and chili powder are a popular street snack in Mexico. Crunchy, tangy, tart, and spicy all in one bite, they are refreshing on a hot day and have the bonus of being fat-free. This recipe can be doubled.

From The Gourmet Cookbook by Ruth Reichl.

Jicama and Cucumber Chili Spears

2 (½ -pound) pieces jicama, peeled and cut into 2 ½ -by-1/3-inch spears

1 seedless cucumber (usually plastic wrapped), halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut into 2½ -by-1/3-inch spears

4 teaspoons fresh lime juice

¼ teaspoon chili powder

Pinch of cayenne

1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

Toss all ingredients together in a bowl and serve.

Try this stir-fry:

1 clove garlic, chopped

1 /4 lb. jicama, peeled and julienned

2 tablespoons chopped red bell peppers

2 teaspoons olive oil

1/8 teaspoon paprika

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

Heat 2 teaspoons olive oil, once hot, add the jicama, garlic, and bell peppers, sprinkle with the paprika, salt and pepper.  Sauté for 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

I just ran into this jicama appetizer in Saveur.

Thinly slice the jicama.  Spread on a brunoise (diced finely and braised in butter) of potatoes and carrots.  Sprinkle with a ‘confetti’ of jalapeño.